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I just had to adjust my chain for the 1st time today, noticed that the adjuster is near the end of it's travel before I even touched it.:huh





Any ideas? Is this typical?
I can't find any information on the chain length, #of links anywhere online.
Sprockets are stock 15/45 and I think I have 114 links.

I thought I saw in the book that 112 was standard. In any case, there is plenty of room if you want to remove a link. The axle would end up forwards exactly the distance between two pins, with is about .625".

This is an oring chain and after initial adjustment, it isn't going to move much...so if you don't remove a link it isn't like you'll be running out of adjustment room soon.

removing a link would give you about .625" shorter wheelbase...

I dropped my front sprocket 1 tooth and took a link out of the chain since it was way out there. I don't like stretching the adjusting bolts out to far.

Mods so far:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Leo Vince slip on with quiet tip and no screen<o></o>
Removed “lego” extensions from rear signals, reattached signals with shorter bolts<o></o>
Removed chain guard<o></o>
Removed rubber peg inserts<o></o>
Removed lic. Plate bracket, bolted lic plate directly to flap under tail light<o></o>
All wiring connections in taillight disconnected, coated with dielectric grease and reconnected<o></o>
CR8IEX plug .026” gap<o></o>
Barnett clutch cable-nice cable, wish it was stock length<o></o>
Shortened the aluminum guide for the front of the seat, reducing gap between tank and front of seat. Used a big drill bit for this, then faced it off with a grinder.<o></o>
1” aluminum spacer for left side panel cut in half, shorter bolt<o></o>
1.125” hole in airbox directly opposing backfire screen<o></o>
slid forks up in clamps, top of tube 7/16” above clamps<o></o>
all compression adjusters full soft, front and rear<o></o>
sag set about as loose as I can get it-I think I need a softer spring-3.375” sag<o></o>
right rear pass.peg bracket rubbing on swingarm, needs bent outwards<o></o>
<o> </o>
jetting:<o></o>
stock=hesitation every time i’d crack the throttle.<o></o>
Installed JD jet kit per instructions only with a 180 main. Better, but flat in the midrange and I’m 2.75 out on the fuel screw with the 42. <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1lace>LV</st1lace></st1:City> slip on didn’t seem to change jetting a huge amt, nor did the airbox hole. 185 main now and a 45 pilot jet, puts me at 1.25 out. Still flat in midrange in higher gears. AC pump has JD leak jet, thin oring and 2.75mm adjustment. Using red needle (haven’t tried blue at all), started with five, went to six, felt better in midrange in higher gears, went to red 4, didn’t run bad but was noticeable flatter in the midrange. One clip notch doesn’t do much on the JD needle (that’s a good thing for fine tuning). Back to red6, runs good enough for now, some day will play with blue needle starting with #4 position.<o></o>

MOTOMETAL:

I understand all of your mods except this one:

1” aluminum spacer for left side panel cut in half, shorter bolt

Ed

Thanks for the replies guys. I was going to go down 1 on the front too.
Guess I'll just pull a link.

Cheers

The "slow damping screw" has about 26 clicks to it. The "Fast Damping" knob (the grey "knob" wrapped around the slow damping screw doesn't seem to want to move. Do I need some of super wide screwdriver with a gap in the middle to move it? Then what is a good setting?

Wrap a rag around the big gray knob and give it a twist with pliers counterclockwise. it will free up and be easier to adjust next time. Set it all the way soft, same with the screw.

I know where you are coming from. Mine was the same way. Chances are good that presently it's all the way out (counterclockwise). You should be able to turn it, by hand clockwise. Even when mine started turning, it was pretty stiff. The inner screw turns with it.

Some of the clickers on this bike have quite a range. Generally, unless the threads on the adjuster are super fine or there is an extraordinary amt of hydraulic flow, as you approach the end of the range "out" (counterclockwise) it isn't doing much. Usually it's just a needle in a seat. The first few clicks do much more, from fully closed (clockwise). I think my bike could stand to have a shim or two added to the HSCD both front and back, haven't researched it yet...and am not familiar with Marzocci forks. I may be able to do the forks myself, not the shock though. Also, it isn't broken in yet so it will probably become somewhat more plush.

you guys must be doing some really tight woods...with stock gearing my bike will really creep in 1st gear, about 7 mph with the clutch out. Or maybe you just want the gears closer together for off road?

I am changing my oil. Where are these little bag/screen filters I am supposed to clean?

Looking toward the front of the bike, I found the one on the left side and cleaned it. If I am correct the manual is telling me the other one on the right side is under the big friggin cover that contains the oil filter and everything?

Whiney voice.....but I don't want to take all of that off...

after reading a gazillion posts, I found the general consensus to be that it really isn't necesary to take that apart...in fact, several guys took the cover off only to find there was no screen in there anyway:eek1

Ahh, there's a good reason why this is confusing Ed...when I posted, I had forgotten the spacer actually doesn't go where I put it.

I removed the chain guard (not guide), and it had an aluminum spacer, about 1/2" dia x 1" long. I cut that in half, and screwed it onto the left side panel.

Stock, with stock muffler, the side panel was starting to try to melt on the muffler. I noticed there is a convenient threaded insert in the lower part of the side panel...not sure what is supposed to go there but I took that spacer, a short bolt and loctite and used that to space the side panel away from the muffler. Worked great. It scrated the muffler a bit, but I don't care because it's back where you can't see it behind the panel anyway.

DIRTBAG:I just did those screens. Like Buffalo Dan said, the one next to the shift shaft will have crap...and it did, black, orange and metal. One on the clutch side was spotless. Wasn't too hard to do but was unnecessary. There was something that shoulda been torqued in the clutch side...but I forgot what. Put in 20W50 non synthetic. Will run for 500 miles or so. I'm an old fashioned guy who believes in break in oil. Will go to 15W50 Mobil 1 @ 1000 miles.

MOTOMETAL: Now I understand. I did something different. A button head M6 with a double nut to space it out. Same thing.

Someone mentioned a little "bumper" (part # 8000-67970) on the air cleaner cover was missing. In the parts book they specify only 3 are required. Looking at the cover it sure looks like a 4th is required. I found these little rubber nipples at work and added one...cut down so it keeps the plastic stud from trying to rub a hole in the foam. Any opinions on this fix?

Finally, although I am incompetent at posting pictures, I came up with an auxiliary 1.5 gallon fuel tank that mounts on the rack. I replaced the rack with a plate, added the bracket to mount the tank horizontally. go to www.kolpin.com and look for the 1.5 gallon fuel tank in the ATV stuff. Got the tank cheap from wal-mart.com but had to pay full book for the bracket from Kolpin. Still came to under $60. I followed all the threads on the big tank. Had one on order. Was not satisfied by all the negative comments about fuel lines, fit, alignment etc of the big tank. This is an alternative....or a means for the REAL LOOOONG distance riders to pack even more gas!

MOTOMETAL: Wow does it handle with the fork legs shoved up in the clamps? Makes it steer a little quicker?

For those of you that have the Leo Vince pipe, what difference in sound is there with the screen in vs. out? Mines on the way, and I've heard that it can be quite a bit louder at some throttle settings. I'm commuting to work on mine at very early morning hours, so I need to be as quiet as I can. Does the screen make a sound difference?

Cheers,
Tom

There is supposed to be a rubber bumper in that insert. Mine vibrated out and got lost, got a new one from the dealer and loctited it in place.

Yes...

I am currently running Scorpian MT90 AT's
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with the forks raised up in the clamps, third line...really makes the bike rail in the twisties...I am trying to learn how to lean the bike over to the point of scraping pegs :eek1, it looks like I am gonna need to take some riding lessons ...

Dan
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I am pretty sure the insert/ arrestor screen is the most quiet setup. I am gonna switch back to that as the other inserts are just too loud...

Dan

Not to quible...
The fact that the screen was missing on at least one bike :huh, is a good reason to check it, at the very least on the initial oil change. I would rather it be in there in case there was a problem down the road, of course, ymmv...

Dan

P.S. I am a bit anal on maintenance stuff, prmarily because I am new to bikes...every account is that clutch side screen has been spotless, but I would hate to be the one not to make sure it was in there when the inevitable problem arises...