I thought I give thanks in this thread and cross post a little story here. I'll quote myself from my post in the TE610 sign-in thread. Thanks again Neduro and all the other contributors to this thread! Edit: Thought I'd mention that the Topeak Morph mountain bike pump that I'd bought based on suggestions in other threads worked perfectly in seating the bead. Went to about 30psi and it settled like a charm.
Thank You Neduro!! I don't have a dual sport but your detailed instructions gave me the gumption to give this tire changing thing a try. Made two of the worst decisions, but still came out ok. Tried changing a tire (for the first time) late, late at night before thinking of taking a long trip the next day and had no choice but to change it in 55 degree weather. Read through your thread a couple times and kept the computer handy while working. Rim came off easily. Tire bead was easy to break with the HF bead breaker. Cold tire was extremely difficult to get off the rim. (Wish I had thought of just cutting the durn thing off.) One side of the new tire slipped on easily, the other put up a huge fight. Tried directing the heater on it and it helped a little. All in all, it took a little longer then expected, but wasn't bad for a first time. Have a few rim scratches that will keep me calm and easier on it next time. Get the rim protectors everyone!!! Thank You again Neduro!!
No need to cry. Assuming you are using enough pressure (are you?) you don't say ... 1) remove valve stem and allow to deflate 2) use irons to pry back the bead in the portions where it has fully seated 3) put some lube around bead (soapy water or better, tire lube). 4) reinsert stem and reinflate 5) repeat as necessary
I had the same problem last fall with my first tire change, I even tried to ride it thinking the markings on the sidewall were just uneven! I went back and read through the procedures again, with special intrest in the pros and cons of the various lubes. I settled on a bit of soapy water and much more air pressure. The tire made a lot of noise when it finally popped into position! It was a lot easier the second and third times. I didn't note where you are, but if the temps are low it only makes the problem worse. Use a space heater to make sure everything is warm enough if it's cold.
Fantastic thread! I've been practicing on my SM wheels. They are 17" Pilot Powers with a very short, stiff sidewall. Trying to do this like I would on the road I cannot figure out how to break the bead on the front tire. I can use the sidestand of the bike to do the rear if needed but I can't figure out how I could have the front tire off and the bike on it's sidestand (no centerstand) and do it. I have tried standing on the bead and there is no way I can get it started. I've tried using 3 irons- 2 down and 1 up to do it and I can't get it started. Any other ideas? In my shop there are 20 ways to break it easily but not out on a trail.
Tires not seating right? Pump that sucker up high, 60-90 pounds, and throw it on the bike. Go for a spin and that sucker will seat right.
There are various clamp and lever type "portable" bead breakers that you can buy. There's also that small resin "wedge" type one that you smash with a rock or whatever. Personally, I've never had luck breaking the bead with an iron. I think those motion pro ones with the super deep "spoon" would give the best leverage for that task. Thankfully, I've always managed to get the front bead off w/o measures like that. I can imagine it could be quite tough with a SM tire, though.
This is what I carry. It's pricey, but has done the job on many different bikes and tires. http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/New/BB105.html
Disclaimer: I didn't read the entire thread so if this is 205 just ignore it... I've been spooning my own tires on & off for around 40 years and it does get easier with practice. Also, I still mess a tube up every once in a while (last week )... But here is an easy trick that really helps if you are doing it in your garage. Won't work on the trail though. Well, unless you carry a workbench with you...:huh I clamp an 18" long piece of hex stock in my bench vise. The hex stock is sized to just slip through the wheel bearings. Pipe or steel bar would work too but hex works better as you can really clamp it down tight by using a cheater pipe to tighten the vise. Put the hex stock down in the vise until the end rests in the bottom of the vise between the jaws and clamp it really tight. I then put a 12" square piece of plywood over the hex and rest it on top of the vise jaws. Of course, the wood has a hole drilled in the center. Then just drop the wheel onto the hex and let the hub rest on the wood. Gives you a really secure place to work and it's at "stand up" height for us old guys...
You used the irons from the inside out to get the "backside" off. I have seen most people do it this way over the years. It works but it also leaves all those claw marks and nasty scratches on the outside of the rim. Look around you will see them on alot of bikes.Not cool with black rims. I think alot of the shops will do it this way even. This why I always work from one side. Working inside the rim to get the back bead off. Doing this your irons only touch the edge of the rim.
ok, im fairly new at this.. changed a few dirt bike tires to paddle tires a few years back, but nothing since. I have a new D606 coming for the rear of my '09 klr and was wondering how often people replace their tubes? This will be the 4th rear tire that this tube would be going into at around 7500 miles. Is it worth replacing the tube at this point and holding onto the used one as a spare? there are no repairs to this tube so far. Thanks
I'm new to this as well, but I've been reading a heck of a lot in a couple different forums. From what I've seen it's basically up to you. A lot of people seem to think that you shouldn't re-use tubes, but I figure as long as it looks good and doesn't have evidence of cracking or any holes you should be fine. At the same time, when you're pushing past the length you average tire lasts, I'd definitely swap it out. They're cheap, and it's a potential safety issue just waiting to happen. If you really want to, hold onto it as a spare, but if it has been more than a year or two since the start of its service I'd just chuck it rather than saving it as a spare and having to worry if the rubber's worn out enough to leave you stranded.
I followed Ned's advice as closely as possible in replacing the rear tire on my DR 650. This was my first motorcycle tire change. I've messed with bicycles tires plenty of times, but they don't have near as tough of beads to deal with. I used a couple of 10" levers. Struggled quite a bit at times, but stuck to the guidelines of trying to keep the tire in the dish and never forcing anything. Probably took 3 hours, but everything worked out. The new tire's on and the tube is holding air. This isn't something that I'd voluntarily do again, but it's good to have accomplished it and learned something. Thanks again.
The first time I changed tires, it took about 4 hours and I was sore for 2 days afterwards. Now, after a dozen changes, I can do the tire in 20 minutes - it takes longer to take the wheel on and off, and to static balance the tire. Don't give up, the next times are MUCH easier. Lay the tire in the sun for a while to heat it up first, it makes a big difference. Windex makes a good tire lube, too. Note to self: If you have a tire iron stuck between the bead and rim, and have to use some force to pull it out, do not hold the tire iron directly in front of you. Otherwise, when it lets go it can you directly in the front tooth. The subsequent dental visit negates any savings from changing the tires.
