Definitely you need a relay that is switched by a wire that is only one when the key is turned on, unless you want to develop your bump starting techniques . : I did it on several bikes so it must be simply. Just go to any auto parts store and get a generic horn or lights relay, should have a diagram on it that tells you which terminal connects to what, power in, switch, ground, etc. I usually just use a wire going to the tail light, and be sure there is a fuse into the system. Oops, I see you have a fuse. I usually use the cheapo glue on elements that cost about $30 but this install, on a Guzzi, I used Bikemaster, that I found for $45 and were simple to install with a 5 level controller.
This is logical but I'm not sure it's true. The warranty probably only covers the cost to repair up to the value of the bike. A couple years ago a DR owner posted (on Thumpertalk) his bike blew 3rd gear and apparently did a lot of damage. His bike was still under the factory warranty but the cost to repair exceeded the bike value, so they were going to total it. The owner was pissed because he financed the bike and owed more than book value. Eventually the thread disappeared so Suzuki must have provided a satisfactory solution.
Take a look at lacrosse stick cases. I planed on buying on using a blue one. Never saw a blue rifle case so it might go unnoticed. Due to the recent bad publicity in the norhteast, i have decided against that. I recently found that Ruger makes a 10/22 takedown. Comes in a case and does not look like a firearm.
Up hill is OK as long as its to the carb or a fuel tap. This gives any air the chance to escape. If its just a loop/siphon in the fuel line, then that when its a problem. I got rid of the internal filters from the taps, and the one to the carb. I still have a servicable in line filter, which is also positioned vertically to no air traps in it either. Having a swivelling inlet on the FCR helps for sure too. On the BST, I cut off the original pipe and threaded in a straight fitting. When I tried to turn it, I thought it might break the carb.
6 oclock would be even better, then there is no fuel line above the bottom of the tank or the float bowel.
Absolutely NOT. But I'm cynical from working financial crimes for the past 12 years. Besides, go buy what you really want. 10 years from now, you're not going to slap yourself on the back over saving a few bucks. But you will look at pics - or your bike - with the "that's exactly how I wanted it" satisfaction grin.
I got new bars and everything else seems to go on, fit fine except the choke lever. The bars are checkered on the left side and the inner diameter of the choke lever seems smaller than the outer diameter of the bars and won't go on. I could dremel it but seems it should just go on like on the stock bars. This couldn't have been an issue for everyone, right? Or, what did you do? They are Fly Aero tapered bars from Procycle by the way. BTW, it slides right over the other side (the wrong side). Are the bars soft enough I can sand the checkered part on the left?
I agree ... get the bloody Acerbis. I have an IMS and they are as common as dirt. I like the Acerbis much better. Gives the bike a more modern look. But up to you ... but don't send a cashier's check (bank check). A legal question: I realize if the buyer sends a bank check he doesn't have much recourse ... but what about paying with a US Postal Money Order? I was under the impression fraud when a US Postal Money Order is involved is a Federal crime ... I think? Opinions? Knowledge? Cheers!
All of 'em can be federal crimes as soon as you mail it. There can be specific codes if you use or forge a postal money order but unless it's a huge amount, they'll probably want it prosecuted for the corresponding state criminal statutes. Now, for a few pics. End of Day 1 http://dualsport-sd.com/forums/inde...desert-with-pmb/page__pid__140772#entry140772 <---------- Short report
Will order acerbis after the holiday. I have couple other things that are coming but got delayed big time with this holiday season. seems like everyone is off this week. couple more things on my to do list this winter, install the seat concepts seat, make a dash for switches, and heated liner.
There's not a little plastic tit on the choke housing to keep it from rotating on the old bars?? I can't remember from when I upgraded mine..
Do you happen to remember what that feedback from the forums was? Five amps just doesn't seem like much of a draw on the system, and I don't use that pair for anything else.
I'm sure there was a lawsuit threatened against Suzuki there. Hell, I have an 08 Spectra with a ten year warranty. If my engine blew today, the cost of repairs would far exceed the minuscule value of the car, much less the value of the car nine years into a ten year warranty. I should probably check my paperwork again, but I don't believe they could just say "well, too bad, it's not worth it," if that happened. That said, it's not like they've ever honored any other part of my warranty, so I guess I could be screwed there too.
There is inside the switch housing, but I can't get the bars past the choke lever into the switch housing. The switch housing actually comes apart and if there was no choke lever the switch housing would go right on. The bars are larger on the left side than the right side. If I flip the bars backward the choke lever and switch housing both slide right on the right side of the bars, but not on the left side of the bars where it's checkered.
what bar do you have. I did an twin wall bar upgrade . Didn't have the problems you described. My twin wall has checkers on the left too.