Sadly its gonna be shiny for longer than I would like as the arm is currently in a few pieces it should not be and I won't be offroad riding for a bit yet. Waterproof testing will have to wait until i get it shipped back to Thailand and monsoon season.
Wow! I had no idea about your broken arm... take your time to heal it, so that you can properly test the waterproofing of this air filter box ;-)
Definitly trying to be patient with my arm but with an almost new bike beckoning, restraint is not an easy task. So I've got the bike desmogged and holes plugged, plus the Golan filter installed. No gunk visible on my stock fuel filter in the quick release. My Golan out of the box was barely finger tight so make sure the two halves are properly snugged together before installing. The engraved direction arrow on the Golan I needed help from someone else to ID as my eyesight is crap. I went ahead and used a Sharpie to make a more visible indication of fuel flow direction. A few wraps of electrical tape around the filter as insurance against unscrewing and it also provides a bit of friction defence if it comes in contact with other cables, lines, etc. I'm planning on a tank upgrade so the final lay out of the fuel hoses is not determined yet. When mounting the Golan, quick release on the stock hoses, with a stock tank things were a bit crowded. I did not want to cut any of the stock fuel lines for this install since I may want them for my larger tank install. I have seen posts of people pinching and deforming the O-rings on the quick release with usage. I removed the fuel hose from the bottom of the tank and fuel did not come pouring out as I expected. To make things a bit simpler I just omitted the quick release and installed the Golan. Much cleaner, simpler, and doing without the quick release and extra two hose clamps reduces the chances for leaks and oring failures some have experienced. I understand the logic behind the quick release but if it creates issues why have it? I'm thinking I can just use my tool kit vice grips to close the fuel line removed upstream of the Golan if I remove the tank. Just got my ECU back in the mail from being reflashed with the European competition map. Not huge differences in terms of outright performance but it does run crisper, start easier etc.
FTB A piece of bicycle tube also works very well as a dust seal/protector for the Golan. On my 500xcw, the upper oem FI hose was rubbing in several places in its stock configuration. You need to remove the tank to see it as its near where it connects to the throttle body. I ran some protective sheathing over mine.
Good call on the bicycle inner tube. Bill what did you source for the fuel line sheathing? My fuel line was only rubbing on the cables but with a larger tank we'll see how the fuel line routing changes. After the re-mapping of the ECU I took the bike out for a decent spin today. I rode a 525 (570 piston, Hotcams, unshrouded head, oversize valves, etc.) for years and the two bikes have completely different motors. The lighter crank weight of the 500 is really noticeable, it picks up RPM's a lot quicker than the built 525. It'll be good fun, however off the bottom it lacks the tractor capability of the 525 which is really nice in slow technical slogging situations. Having FI I was expecting unmatched responsiveness from the motor. The throttle response in neutral is a lot more quicker than the 525's carb despite my forever fiddling with the jetting, accelerator pump etc. The fI is unmatched in this perspective. However if riding along in low RPM's if the throttle is yanked open it responds, but not cleanly for almost a full second. It pulls, but not nice and linearly like the 525. The 500 seems to pull immediately but (relatively) timidly for almost a second, then the power ramps up strong. I thought this was just down to the EXC mapping but now with the competition map installed the trait is still there. Maybe my expectation of FI is too high but it responds a bit like the 350 XCFW I rode, nothing off the bottom but responds wonderful once its got a few RPM's built up. It feels more to me like a 450 lite than a true large bore. Anyone else feel the same sensation? The power also goes flat a LOT sooner than my built 570. The power feels all midrange without a bunch up high or down low. The bikes steers lightening quick compared to my 525 with 17 degree Topar clamps, very nice. The downside of this is it has head-shake (even with 115mm sag and triple clamps showing 1 line of fork tube) that reminds me of my mid 90's 2 stroke motocrossers. Has anyone done any high speed rough fireroading on the bike? How is it through 50+ mph chop?
Very comprehensive review of the 500's engine performance! And thanks for the tips about the golan filter!
My XC-W does not have the hesitation/stumble you speak of. It pulls cleanly and hard from idle unless I'm about 2 gears too high in a given situation. The exc'x also have very high gearing compared to the xc-w. I realize i'm posting in the exc thread, but these are the reasons I chose the xc-w over the exc! This bike has re-lit the off-roading flame for me.
I am the lucky owner of a new 500 EXC. I’ve always been a Honda guy, but when it came time to buy a new bike Honda they didn’t have a bike in the niche I was looking for (90% dirt, 10% street). Sorry Honda! Anyhoot, so since I’m new to KTM’s, I can’t help but admiring many of the features of this great bike. I also can’t help but wondering what the heck the engineers were thinking when designing some of these features.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> One of my biggest pet peeves, aside from the backfiring which I now fixed, is the kickstand. Now, there’s nothing simple I can do to fix the plastic foot that loves to break off, but I can and have fixed the issue where the kickstand likes to help itself rearward 3”-4” toward the folded position as soon as you take the weight off of it, setting you, a friend, or family member up to drop your bike onto its side and onto themselves. Here is a pic of the stock kickstand as soon as you take the weight off. <o></o> <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" oreferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></vath><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><o></o> As you may or may not know, its because there is a rearward tension being exerted on it by the retainer springs as the curved spring bracket winds around the back side of the kickstand’s pivot bolt bushing. Here is a close up of the stock mechanism. <o></o> <o></o> To eliminate the rearward pull, the fix is a simple $1.00 replacement bolt. 1) Find yourself a replacement kickstand pivot bolt. The OEM bolt is a M8x26 Torx 40 Countersunk bolt. What you need is an M8x20 Countersunk bolt. I found one at Fastenal with an Allen head. It was made by FKE and was rated 10.9. They may also come zinc plated, but I was in a hurry and bought a black one. Here is a pic of its slightly shorter brother. Notice in the picture below, the length of the replacement bolt is roughly the same length as the stock bolt with the bushing on. The reason you can’t use the stock bolt without the bushing is that there is an unthreaded shoulder (grip) right below the bolt head underneath the bushing. This unthreaded part hits the frame threads before the bolt head tightens down. You can see the unthreaded section peeking from under the bushing in the pic below. There’s plenty of frame thread. I was not so lucky to receive a different bolt in my tool kit. I only received an identical bolt to the one i am replacing. You can even get away with an M8x25 I believe, but its not necessary. 2) OK, so now that you have the bolt, go ahead and have a friend hold up the bike, or prop it up somehow so that you can fold up the kickstand. This releases tension on the springs to a point that the kickstand is easier to work on. Go ahead and remove the stock bolt and bushing and place in storage as you will not need either again. 3) Replace the bolt with the M8x20 and tighten down. You are now done. When now lowering the kickstand into its fully open position, the spring tension is slightly forward of the axis of the pivot bolt, thereby exerting the slightest forward force on the kickstand and keeping it firmly opened and planted against the stop bolt below the footpeg. Notice the slight shadow under the kickstand foot to show that it is staying down of its own accord! Note that this “fix” in no way affects the ability of the springs to hold the kickstand in the fully closed/folded position. Good luck!
Generally Rust is not an issue on our dirt bikes, but it could be on the older model bikes. I made a little video showing how I used Electrolysis to remove rust from my brake calipers... I recommend changing the video settings to HD for a better picture <iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/77tnDWnJRAs?list=UUSGdEfXCSbJWaiunDhTf9WA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> If your interested in more information about rust, you can see more at my webpage: http://www.hunt4steve.com/saturn/brakes
the reason for that design is for dual sport legalities, not exactly sure of the laws pertaining to it but that is the reason for it. there should have been a bolt in your briefcase to fix that issue, my 2012 came with one. not sure if the 13's had it or not. mine was already taken care of when the bike was delivered. But the extension that was removed was in the bag, my cousins Aprilia is the same way. but he has not fixed it and drops it all the time. not the sharpest tool in the shed but I get a kick out of watching beat the hell out of his nice bike.
I had a 2005 525 and was extremely happy with it. Also had some work done on the engine. I was also a little disappointed with the 500 FI and have basically the same comments you do. I have the JD tuner fitted and have increased the throttle pump and also use the 'wlid' unrestricted euro map which does help somewhat. Also changed the gearing as it was way too high. I have a scotts steering damper so no more head shake. Opted to raise the bars and put stabilizer under the bar rather than on top - a lot nicer to ride standing up now with the higher bar height.
I rode the 500XC-W and 350XC-W back to back at the KTM demo days and the 500 felt like it was on steroids. None of this delay you speak of. It actually felt a lot like the 300XC-W they had there, except a little smoother and the motor never signed off. Sounds like you have it mapped right, so I don't really have any suggestions, other than to bum a ride on someone else's 500 and compare. Also, did you re-gear down to XC-W gearing?
I had my lower chain guide off today- two bolts front bolt does have a nut on back side anyway -a small washer feel out and I have no idea where it was located Can a 13 500 owner have a good look -spacer? or does it just go with the nut on the front bolt next -had tank off today and tried fuel cap kit they one that goes into the quick connect doesnt go -I pushed the button in I dont want to force the plug in -it seems the red oring is a little too big -mine caps are black and red oring = all I see in pics is white ones with black oring Anyone else? I did spray some silicone spray on it too= it just doesnt want to go= I dont want to hurt a high dollar quick fitting by forcing it
13 500 exc --they are there and not plugged in -they have bullet connectors and clear plastic shield- any idea what they are used for?
The washer is for the frt bolt of the chain guide, and the quick disconnect has somehow connected without fitting it to the male end. look inside the female end and check, then push the disconnect button and reset it. It should know go on and connnect just fine. Did the same thing when I first took mine off. do not push the button in as you are connecting it it should just go in and click your connected.
The washer goes on before the nut.mine does have a red oring.I did the exact same thing the first time I used mine.let me know if that fixes it.
The bike is so smooth that you get the feeling that it doesn't have a lot of power, but it will go 100+ mph. Remove the screen in the back of the silencer and your performance will increase. The other thing to do is get the 3 position map switch so you can take advantage of the different map settings. They left out the info on the map settings in the 2013 owners manual but it is in the 2012 manual. Increase the sag on the rear to 4.5 or 5 inches and the bike will settle down and be more stable. The PDS shock geometry is different from the motocrossers and more sag helps with the stability. It took 25+ hours of riding before the bike started to loosen up, so give it some time before you start changing things.
