I'm going to try and document my experiences with my (new to me) 2000 te610. There is not much info floating around for these bikes and my hope is that it will help others who are considering buying one of these bikes. I spotted this thing on craigslist. I went to take a look at it. Superficially it seemed to be in good shape. About the only things wrong were the fork seals were leaking and the rear brake fluid reservoir was just dangling there not bolted to anything. It had a dual sport kit on it and a decent looking bash plate. It was also apparently road legal at some point because it had an inspection sticker too. The guy went to start it for me. He was repeatedly kicking it over like a maniac while complaining that it was a bitch to start. Although he was using the compression release in some manner, It didn't appear that he was following any routine. I was about to ask him to stop before he broke something when it started. The top end was pretty noisy and it idled fast and with some missing. I took it for a ride on the street. It had decent power and it shifted good. It felt solid and fit me pretty good. I mentioned the top end noise when I got back. He said "I think that's just that big piston moving around in there!" I told him I'd think about it, then went home and did some research on part prices and availability. It seemed like even if it needed the top end done it was still a pretty good deal... I called back and offered $100 less than his asking price and he hesitantly agreed. We met up, did the paperwork, loaded it in the truck and I brought her home. Here are some pics:
I decided that I should go over the bike a bit and at least take a peek at the valvetrain before going for a ride. I found the shop manual online here. Removing the tank and all the bodywork is pretty easy, you can do it all with an 8mm socket and a phillips screwdriver. So far I think it's in good shape. No missing fasteners, the air filter was clean and oiled, and nothings stripped. I'm pleasantly surprised.
nice,, i was looking at a 99 not long ago with a total re-do in white/blue and extra SM tires/kit. shoulda bought it.
After starting to work on the bike I realized the manual I linked to in my previous post was for the e-start bikes. A more appropriate manual for the kicker bikes can be found here. A warning in advance... the manual is pretty bad. Many sections are missing english translations, and those that are translated are often confusing. However something (especially free) is better than nothing. My maintenance went pretty smoothly. the magnetic drain plug has some sludge on it and the oil was pretty dirty, but the filter was clean. The valves were right on spec (.10mm intake and .15mm exhaust), and the cam and lifters looked good as well, so I put it back together and.... It ran like crap! I've since played with the carb and was able to get it to idle better, but i'm concerned about the rattle coming from the left side of the engine. Anyone familiar with these bikes care to comment on if this sounds normal (I'm almost certian it's not): <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allownetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/u/uranys_2000%2520Husqvarna%2520TE610_iPhonePictures20101110768.mp4" height="240" width="320">
The 610 motors tend to be pretty noisy even when new. Did you check your cam chain tensioner? WoodsChick
So your saying you don't hear anything abnormal? I'd like to get a few rides in before winter, but only if it's not at risk of blowing up. Yes I did, it was at 6 clicks out. Another question... On my other kickstart bike (1998 xr600r) I can't really kick it through without using the compression release. On this bike I can. Not easily, but not too hard either. Is that normal, or does it mean that it's got low compression?
Sounds normal to me. I've owned four of them, they all clattered like that, and have been super reliable. Change the oil often and check the valves as required. The stock exhaust is real restrictive, a Pro-Circuit (FBF), Big Gun or Uptite exhaust will really wake it up but the PC exhaust might interfere with the skid plate. Once you learn the starting drill, it's easy. They are great bikes, even buy todays standards. I love mine. you might want to check out Cafe Husky http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=75 .
Ok, great. The manual mentions checking the oil reed valve every fifth oil change and the clutch needs to be pulled to do it. Does it really need to be checked/changed that often? Yeah, took it for a spin yesterday... she's got plenty of get up, but not a lot of boogie. I was surprised at how quiet it was. I've been trying the same drill I use for the xr: kick to tdc, pull in compression release, kick past just a bit, then let her rip. This gets my xr going in a kick or two. The Husky takes a lot more. Still wondering if it's down on compression because I can kick it through pretty easily without the compression release (i'm not a big dude, I weigh about 170) Sweet bike btw and thanks for the link, lots of useful info over there. I saw your post over there about stator output.... Mine cam with a regulator/rectifier and had been rewired to DC. The headlight was really dim, but it didn't have a battery so I figured that was the problem. I added a 30k 25v capacitor but it still no good. From the measurements I took it's only putting out about 30-35 watts. Besides rewinding, are there other options? What stators from other bikes or models will swap in?
Maybe I'm an idiot, but I only checked the oil reed on my '95 the two times when I replaced the clutch and I put a gazillion miles on the original engine. I checked the reed when I had to replace a broken clutch drum (from a crash) on my 2000 and it looked fine so I just don't worry about it. The '99s and up have a small oil pump as well. They are pretty easy to kick over, much easier than my 650 Berg and a little harder than my ATK which only has 9:1 CR. You might want to make sure your compression release is adjusted properly. My '95 was a much easier stater than the '00 before I put in the big bore engine. Here's how I start them and my ATK if the battery is dead: Cold- Just past TDC, choke on NO THROTTLE, kick untill it starts or tries to start and sputters out. Flip the chocke up (off) and kick with NO THROTTLE untill she fires. Hot-NO THROTTLE, kick it, the ACR works well when the engine is warm. They supposedly upped the stator output in 2000. Mine is still AC and has no problem running the 70w headlight I have on it plus an LED tail and flag light, I'm sure rectifing it to DC drops the output considerably. When I put the DS kit on my '95 back when it was new I had the stator rewound, but it didn't help much. I also tried a capacitor in stead of the little battery pack and it didn't work either. It just needs more juice. LED tail and trun lights help. Maybe an "e" model stator would work? Halls has a good link to the manual. https://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog/PDF/Husqvarna%20.PDFs/1998-2004/2000/00_410-610.pdf
Just picked up a '98 myself, so I'm interested to see how you fare. Mine looked a dog, which I think... motivated the seller, but was actually pretty good under all the ugly. Starts cold first or second kick, ticks over nicely, and goes like hell. I wish I could tell you something about how to start it. First time I tried, kicked my face blue for a half hour, tried every starting ritual I'd ever heard of, swore a lot, eventually gave up for the night. Came back the next morning, lit first kick. On the choke, but no kicking through, no fresh charge, nothing. Been that way ever since. Do not even look at the throttle 'til it's running. It's not necessarily a difficult engine to light off, though. It's definitely not a quiet engine, either. A kick-only 2000 engine should have an automatic compression release in addition to the manual release, so your compression may be fine. The USD forks don't blow seals constantly like the giant RSUs (like the '98 has) are reputed to. Figuring out exactly what you've got is probably time well spent. There seems to have been a good bit of mixing-and-matching going on with engines, electrics, and bodywork at least through '99, so maybe in 2000 as well. Parts availability wasn't the greatest either, so who knows what's been put on the bike if anything's been replaced. No leads on parts, manuals, etc., aside from what's already been mentioned and the usual suspects. I'd be fascinated to find some, though. I'm also looking forward to any more ideas about the electrics, because light output is currently less than idea.
Since it was rainy and miserable I spent some time trying to work out the electrics... How the hell do you get the flywheel nut off? I tried a rattle gun @150 psi and it didn't budge! Instead I spent some time on the exhaust. I took it apart (one of the PO had already modded it somewhat). I'm going to try and open it up a bit, I'll post up some pics when I get a chance. Thanks for the starting tips, It helped a lot. I was able to get it to fire pretty quickly, although I still can't do it seated on the bike, I have to get off and kick it with my right leg
Is it left hand thread? Haven't looked at mine yet, but that's a not-uncommon "feature" on some engine designs.
hey mate, i have a husky te aswell, an 2000 te 410. its the same as your bike, except the cc. will follow this thread for sure. cheers josef edit: look at "my backyard" down in my signature for pics and a short vid!
Yep, sure is and if I would have RTFM I would have known. Anyway I was able to gun it off. Now I need a puller, I measured the ID of the flywheel hole and it was 26mm so it looks like this one will work. Can anyone verify that for me?
Do the early models have the same oil capacity as the new ones, what are the (factory recommended) oil change intervals on these? have seen a few locally for good prices its just hard to find good info on them.
Here is a question for people who actually understand electricity (I only pretend to): On my bike there is one yellow wire that comes from the stator. Right now it goes to a reg/rec which has two yellow wires. The other yellow is grounded to the frame right now. Does this means that it's only doing half wave rectification right now and if I convert to a floating ground setup it will increase (double?) my DC output? my reg/rec is similar to this one:
The manual says that they hold 1.6 Liters (I think took less when I did the change). I didn't see a change interval specified anywhere, but I'm thinking 1k miles would be good.
A few things here: As I'm sure you've caught, the commonly-available manual is for the 610E, which is a somewhat different engine from the 610. The 610E, being electric start, is also a DC electrical system with a battery whereas (at least in '98) the 610 is full-AC. The 610E is the one with the gear driven oil pump and better filter. The 610 has the sketchy screen filter as above and reed valve oil "pump", though some people hold that the gear driven oil pump was on both by 2000. Haven't seen enough verifiable examples to be sure either way. With a proper pump, 1000 miles is probably the far edge. On my '98, I suspect that'd be pushing it well beyond sense. The guy I bought mine from claims to have changed the oil before every ride (weekend bike, rarely used). Edited to add: No clue how much oil they hold. I've heard 1.5 to 1.7L. Mine's down for cleanup right now. Planning to drain it, put in about 1.2, start it, shut it off, let it settle, top up, then repeat 'til it sits right in the sight glass. The reed valve pump engines do not do well with sustained speed. Starves the crank bearings of oil. Bad news. The reg/rect setup you describe sounds a lot like an AC voltage regulator as opposed to an actual reg/rect, meaning your bike is full-AC, and as such, it's running no rectification whatsoever. I don't want to tell you wrong based on my misunderstanding of what you have, so is there any chance you could put up a picture of the box? I assume the goal is to get a brighter headlight, and how the bike is wired makes a big difference in the best way to do that.
I did some exhaust work last night. Here is what my stock exhaust looked like with the end cap removed. Originally the middle piece with the small diameter pipe was welded to a chamber connected to the other end piece, but someone had broke it loose and was probably running without it. Here is what the other end piece looks like: and a shot of where the small pipe connected: I want it to flow better, but not be too loud. I decided to replace the small pipe (about 1 1/8" diameter) with some 2 1/2" perforated tubing. You can see the size difference: The little tube terminated in a diffuser that I decided to keep, so I cut as much of the small pipe of as I could without damaging the diffuser. Here is what everything will look like assembled: And after welding: I'm going to leave the diffuser piece as a slip fit and if it doesn't flow enough I'll replace it with more perf tube. It's all repacked and back on the bike. I double checked the size of the flywheel hole and I'm pretty sure the puller i linked to earlier will work, so I've ordered it. Still looking for answers to my electrical questions.
The left kick, non e-start models hold less oil than the "e" models I believe. My 2000 kicker holds almost 1.3 quarts, but it has an Uptite cover which allows a litle more oil. My 2000 manual's maintence chart says to change the oil every "race" and my '95 manual states to change it every other race "or so". It's so easy to change, I do it often, like every 5 to 10 rides depending on mileage and how hard I ride them. '99 and up got a small oil pump along with the reed pump. On page 28 of my manual under lubrication, lamellar system "R.A.L." (Reed Activated Lubrication) with oil pump. More proof, page 37 of the shop manual, see part #78. https://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog/PDF/Husqvarna%20.PDFs/1998-2004/2000/00_410-610.pdf Sorry burghstrom, I'm not much of an eletrical whiz, but I can tell you the SEM ignition in my '93 put out like 130 watts, which even rectified, was more than enough for the dual sport kit with a 55 watt headlight and incandescent tail bulb. My 95's Ducati ignition sucks even after being rewound. The 2000 has much more juice than the '95 and seems close to the '93. The only difference is the 2000 seems weak at low rpm's. It's driven two 37 watt mr16 bulbs with one LED 1157 tail bulb and an 1156 bulb in the dune whip/flag no problem except at low rpm's.<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_14504818", true); </SCRIPT>
