Yamaha XT 600 personalization

Zergman · Feb 23, 2014

Hey guys,

My name is Tadas. I'm from Lithuania.

And welcome to my long-term "project"...

I probably should have posted here a long time ago, but better later than never. Right? Right.

I bought my 1993 XT 600 in 2011.

Probably the first things I've done were a Yoshimyra carbon fiber exhaust muffler change http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z90jlZqkQTc&feature=plcp
bi-xenon light kit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxpOGIrnbL8&feature=plcp
and Acerbis fuel tank (more for looks than for it's fuel capacity).

Then, in the spring of 2012 I've had the bike in pieces, and sandblasted all metal parts, shot primer and painted the frame and etc. Also painted the plastics.

Removed the power limiter from the right side carb, and did a header mod like this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOe0jzS2LJo&feature=related

Wiring harness was a mess, so I've fitted a good (untouched) one bought off eBay.de

Fitted a Yamaha R6 Ignition Switch/Starter button assembly and another throttle housing assembly.

Front brake disc was warped, so I bought new discs from Germany.

So, in the summer of 2012...

Zergman · Feb 25, 2014

Later in 2012, in November, I had an idea of a fork swap.

Bought a 2004 KTM EXC wheel hub, axle. Bought a set of Excel Takasago rims very cheap (front one has been slightly hit, needs to be professionally straightened or scrapped).
I also bought a front fork off a supposedly EXC 525. Which actually was a 2000 EXC 520 fork...

Pissed off I scrapped the idea, sold the hub, sold the axle, and nobody bought the fork. It just stood in a corner of my bedroom. "To be continued" on that...

May 2013 I got a set of Bosley stainless steel foot pegs. Great stuff!

September 2013 I decided to have a Raptor 660 carb swap, because my bike was running too lean, and I also wanted more power.

Bought the carb, it came with after-market needles and jets (jets were too big). Took it all apart, inspected and cleaned.

Fuel screws

Raptor 660 air ducts

K&N air filter RU-4710

Honda CR throttle handle assembly and a throttle cable

Magura choke lever

The rubber cylinder head - carb boots were slightly modified, some excess rubber was cut out so that the carbs could go deeper in the boots. I had cut approximately 1-1.5mm, the "rim" that keeps the sealing collars (I guess that's what they are called) from moving too far to the carb side.
The carb itself was ground down in the places that touched the intake boots, also to make it slide deeper in the boots.
Carb was re-jetted (#25 pilots, #145 mains and needles on the second (I think) groove with thick plastic shims.
Throttle handle, cable, 90 degree bend (from another cable I bought) were installed.

The hard(er) part: how to join the Raptor 660 air filter-carb boots to the air filter? It had to be something simple, yet durable and small enough, so that the air filter is close enough to the carb that it clears the frame tubes. I got the joining part made from a 60mm metal pipe (yeah, I know, not too light, but heck, maybe in the future I'll get it made from aluminum).
It came out great, with two attachments to the original air filter box mounts (the third had to be cut off the frame). It also had a crankcase breather pipe, so my headaches of "where to connect it!?" were finished. And the air filter won't wobble up and down under the seat...

I needed to cover the air filter and mount the battery somewhere. But where? I thought I might need to make a special mount for the battery, then make the covers from tin metal (very thin sheet metal). But that's a lot of unnecessary work... And a heavy custom part too.
So I took my old air filter box, and started cutting it I butchered it to the point where I had probably less than 60% of it left.
So I saved the battery mount, flasher and fuse mounts, most of the mudguard surface. I also had it clearing the air filter and the metal pipe connector, so all good. At least for now. Had to cut the seat to clear the air filter too.

And now I must protect the air filter from all the crap the rear wheel will be throwing at it. So I made a small air filter protector from two bits of tin metal (thin sheet metal). Pop-riveted those two parts together and to the original (cut up) air filter box. Also used a piece of plastic sheet, like 3mm thick, to make a cover that doesn't allow water or mud running under the seat, on the sheet metal "lip", and under the air filter.
But the wheel touched it when the suspension bottomed out. So I had to get a riser for the rear shock. 2.5cm riser for the shock equals 5cm more height from the rear wheel.

So then came the fine-tuning the carb. It still might need some adjusting, my "seat-dyno" isn't very accurate :)

I also mounted Mitas E-09 tires on it. Before that I rode on Mitas/Pirelli MX tire set (sucked on road), then got back to my old Trail Wings for the "MOT", and then went to E-09.

To be continued...

Zergman · Feb 25, 2014

Front fork swap 2.0

So, more than a year ago I had an idea to make a front fork swap for my XT. And it didn't end well (didn't even started!). I bought a 2003+ KTM EXC 525 wheel hub and axle, and I was after a front fork. I bought, what supposed to be a 2003 EXC 525, front fork. And it was a 2000 EXC 520... Pissed off, I sold the hub, sold the axle, scrapped the idea of a fork swap. Tried to sell the forks, but no one bought them...

The forks were standing in a corner of my room for all this time, and the fork swap idea started brewing again. I don't have where to use the fork, nobody buys it, so heck, I might end up what I started! (plus 48mm front fork setup would be WAAAAY more expensive...)

I bought the wheel (with a brake disc (not sure yet if it's truly straight) tire and axle),

bought the caliper,

steel braided brake hose and a Magura master brake pump (my original XT pump isn't worth reusing),

28mm handlebar risers (still missing the handlebars, in a worst case scenario I will temporarily use original XT risers and handlebars),

new steering head bearings for the XT,

new oil seals for the forks.

Total spend so far ~600Euro.

Today I received the bearings and gutted the bike's front end. My old bearings were horrible, lower bearing had quite a bit of rust and water (even though I greased everything well a couple of years ago).
Off they went, and also the outer bearing races.

A good friend 30 ton hydraulic press done some pumping and pressed out the KTM and Yamaha steering stems.
OOOOHHHH boy was a happy! The steering stem diameter for the lower aluminum clamp is the same! 30mm!

KTM

XT

Only the length of the stem that is pressed in the lower clamp is different. XT has 23mm and KTM has 29mm.

XT

KTM

Solutions? Not sure yet. I have two options:
1. Machine the bottom of the lower clamp to a ~32mm diameter, so that the steering stem goes 6mm further in the clamp.
2. Loose the retaining ring on the XT stem, press it in the lower clamp 6mm further than it would with the ring on, and then drill a 5mm hole through the clamp and stem, tap the hole for a 6mm bolt, and it would secure the stem to the clamp. But that seems to be a hillbilly way of doing it. And I want to do it right.

Now let's say it's done. Then the lower triple will be in it's place, secured with all original XT nuts and bearings, and I'm a happy camper

Then the top triple doesn't fit right. What to do?

Solutions? I only got one:
1. Cut off the top of KTM steering stem and make a "spacer" from it, drill it's hole to the diameter of the XT top clamp hole, and cut through the "spacer" so that it could compress when I'm tightening the top KTM clamp.

Even the original XT ignition switch will fit it! I will need other bolts (KTM 8mm XT 6mm) and to slightly shave off some aluminum off the top clamp, because right now the ignition lock is touching the clamp and the bolt holes don't quite align.

Now... the last headache I have is how to replace the old top steering head bearing seal with a completely different new seal. I bought those from Pyramid Parts, and they are "Yamaha XT600 E 90-03" as described.
Any ideas?
Top one is old, bottom one is new.

Zergman · Feb 25, 2014

Done. Sort of...

I've visited a "lathe master" on Friday. Cool dude. He's hitting 70 this year (round birthday), and in his living room, 2 meters away from his bed, he has a lathe. Yeah... that's what you get for working 49 years with lathes and stuff.

So he trimmed all the parts I needed: bottom clamp, top clamp, and also made a spacer from a bit of a KTM steering stem.

Lower part needed machining so that the XT steering stem presses 6mm deeper into the KTM lower clamp.
I had the original KTM steering stem pressed back in the KTM lower clamp, and then the stem was machined along with the clamp (those extra 6mm).
Then original KTM stem pressed out and XT's stem pressed in.

TADAAAAMMMM! An "XTM" custom lower triple

Sitting 6mm deeper than the "surface".

Also machined the top clamp 2mm on both sides (to make the thickness the same as XT top clamp's thickness).

Spacer (which was later cut diagonally, so that it could compress).

Pressed down and greased the bearings up, and the clamps went in.
The dilemma was how to make the steering stoppers. The solution might not be the prettiest one possible, but at least for now it's going to be okay. Until I think of something better.
By the way, I still don't get it how the new Pyramid Parts top bearing seal must be used, and how it works (because it's different than the original) so I used both.

Had to grind the top clamp a bit so the ignition lock fits. That's it.
I also cut off the steering lock parts off the frame, spray painted it (will do until more mods and frame re-paint), kinda put it back together, bled the brakes and took it for a test ride.

The forks doesn't have enough oil in them, the seals must be changed too, but already the forks work much better than the original XT forks, and the front feels lighter, easier wheelies.
I have everything ready, now I just need a 2000 KTM EXC 520 repair manual to figure out how they disassemble.

Polisport LMX headlight and Free Flow fender ordered. We're going from green to BLAAAAACK!

Polisport LMX Halogen Lampenmaske SCHWARZ Scheinwerfer +BEFESTIGUNG Bike Enduro | eBay
Polisport Schutzblech FREE FLOW Schwarz +BEFESTIGUNG Bike Fender Kotflügel | eBay

Still need to buy:
a speedometer (Trail Tech Vapor...?),
28mm handlebars,
heavier/progressive front fork springs (??? don't know yet, need to rebuild the forks and ride a bit more to decide, they feel a bit soft for this heavier bike)
and some stuff I might have forgotten now...

Still need to do:
rebuild the front fork (seals and oil change),
sort out the wiring (it's okay, just doesn't fit well under the headlight...),
lengthen the side stand,
rebuild the front wheel (seals and bearings),
probably make/buy new wheel spacers (old ones look worn),
re-mount my enduro tire instead of this MX tire,
and some other stuff along the way.

Zergman · Feb 27, 2014

Monday: bought Renthal Twin Wall RC High handlebars. Little used, straight, top condition, and a price...half of what they cost new.
Tuesday: received the handlebars and fitted them immediately. Sweet!

Today (Thursday) rebuilt the forks with new oil/dust seals and new oil. Old oil was pretty dark, with some metal particles. And from both fork legs only ~400ml came out, that's approximately half of what should come out.

I cleaned everything, put back together, installed Pyramid Parts seals and filled with Repsol 5W fork oil. Both legs were filled with ~400ml each (each leg) leaving oil level at 120mm from top.

Still waiting for the headlight and the fender to be shipped...

Proveick · Feb 27, 2014

Some good stuff here too.
http://motorbiketravels.blogspot.com/2012/07/yamaha-xt600e-modifications.html

Zergman · Feb 27, 2014

Thanks Proveick.

Some of this stuff is on my "wish list" (bash plate, exhaust headers);

some has been done (gas tank, fork swap, handlebars, the same Acerbis ripoff "Made in China" handguards), I tried PW200 pegs - didn't like them, but Bosley pegs are awesome, so I'd say don't waste your money on Chinese PW200 pegs, go for the Bosley pegs;

and the rest of it probably won't be done as it's not going to be a tourer bike (probably).

After I completely finish with the front fork the next thing on my list is the engine rebuild. I haven't gotten into the engine any deeper than adjusting the valves, but I think it needs a new piston and a cylinder overhaul (and there I'll go high(er) compression, oversize, rebore/hone, probably new valves/guides/seals, head porting, and etc.). Well, a complete rebuild.

Zergman · Feb 28, 2014

Mmmmm... The smell of NEW...

Zergman · Mar 2, 2014

Fitted the new stuff.

Polisport universal fender fittings worked great, no drilling required. Fender will stay on.

Relocated the brake line guide.

The headlight is temporarily fitted. I will have to make a set of aluminum headlight holders (instead of these plastic ones, don't mistake them for the rubber clamps!). The holders will also have to function as the mountings for the blinkers. Also the Xenon HID kit will have to be re-installed, and the ballast relocated (along with the relays probably).

Tiny problem: the rubber clamp hooks are hitting the gas tank on the left side. Will probably have to cut them off...

Plenty of space for the Trail Tech Vapor...

Proveick · Mar 4, 2014

Whatcha think about this one from OZ? Anyone have one? Thanks

About $140 US.

BIG ED XT FAN · Mar 5, 2014

Proveick said: ↑

Whatcha think about this one from OZ? Anyone have one? Thanks

About $140 US.
Click to expand...

Nice job! Have you up-grade your rear shock? Like the green color too!!:eek1:eek1

Zergman · Mar 6, 2014

The rear shock is stock. At least for now... I made a riser for the shock so that the rear wheel clears the air filter cover after the Raptor 660 carb swap.
I'm spinning the idea of YZ or some KTM rear swingarm swap. But that's for sometime later.

The green metallic paint color is off a paint catalog, it's some BMW car paint code I believe... I just liked it, haha! But the gas tank paint started "bubbling" up after a year or so after I painted the bike. So I will have to deal with it later... Paint is beautiful, but impractical for an enduro bike.

Kawidad · Mar 7, 2014

A nice way to breath life into a classic.

local1 · May 23, 2014

awesome build! i am wanting to do the same with my carb..what raptor carb did you use? from what year raptor? thanks for the info...

wegface22 · May 23, 2014

Stunning XT! Well done indeed.
Gotta get mine some Bosley pegs, stock are tiny aint they!
Enjoy!
(edit) I had that polisport headlight on me rmz... hmm shoulda kept it when i sold it!

Zergman · Jun 8, 2014

Thanks

Not sure on the year of the Raptor 660 bike, which carb was used, but I guess they should be all the same?

More comments from people with more experience with quads are welcome

BIG ED XT FAN · Jun 8, 2014

Zergman said: ↑

Thanks

Not sure on the year of the Raptor 660 bike, which carb was used, but I guess they should be all the same?

More comments from people with more experience with quads are welcome
Click to expand...

Get a new shock for the back yet? :eek1:eek1

Zergman · Jul 21, 2014

Nope, not yet, but I need a new shock (or a whole swingarm swap) badly!

zap2504 · Jul 22, 2014

Have you noticed any frame flex since you replaced your OEM muffler with the Yoshimura (since the OEM muffler also works as part of the frame)? I know some muffler replacements (maybe from Kedo?) come with a bolt-on frame piece.
The paint may be lifting from your tank because it is plastic and gasoline vapors pass through it. There is a discussion on painting plastic tanks in either Equipment or Garage. Bottom line is that it is very unlikely paint will adhere long-term to any plastic tank.

zap2504 · Jul 22, 2014

Zergman said: ↑

Nope, not yet, but I need a new shock (or a whole swingarm swap) badly!
Click to expand...

Is the shock worn out or do you need a stronger spring? Several here have gone to Hyperpro springs on the OEM shock.

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