I have mesh on mine, and while it does stretch under load, and does make carying stuff like dirt more difficult, it is easy to keep clean, doesn't retain water, and gives unlimited anchor points for odd cargo. Jim
I used expanded metal for a couple of reasons. First off it is much thinner than a 3/4 sheet of plywood. Second it is approximately 30% lighter than an untreated sheet of plywood dry (making it easier to fold alone). Third is I also ride trails and mx I want something I can power wash my bikes on easier. The down fall is having a floor that is more prone to sagging. I feel with proper supports that I will minimize that.
And the new wheels, which are the altogether taller despite being labeled the same size. These state on the sidewall high speed use.
Well I finally got at it again. I installed the fender braces and finished the support bars for the expanded metal.
I used 3/8 16 all thread, which is the same thread on the nuts that come with the trailer. And I used 1/2 tubing cut to fit as the spacer. I welded them to the frame slipped on the fender and now each fender is bolted down with four bolts, all spread out.
I also got some 3/8 16 x 1" carriage bolts and installed them from the bottom up, on the original two holes that holds the fender on. The reason I did that was because with my new tires being slightly taller, under load the threads that stick down may have contacted the tire and sliced into it. That would be bad... I trimmed the extra thread sticking up after the pictures were taken.
Fabricated and installed the removable plates for the wheel chock today. I bought some 5/16x16 stainless cap screws and washers then welded in carbon nuts on the underside. There are different positions from front to rear that can be changed within a matter of a minute. This will allow adjustable tongue weight for different bikes.
Those wires really need to have some kind of wear liner over the top of them. A rubber grommet for the holes wouldn't hurt, either. Oh, and I like to check the hubs and tire treads by feel every time I stop. No need for a tool to do this job, you learn pretty quickly what they are supposed to feel like.
I really like that idea! +1 on the wire covers and grommets. I would at least use a double layer of shrink tube on the wires. You can get grommets from any hardware or auto parts store. Jim
Well I am calling this finished... I am eventually going to install a spare tire holder but for now it will go in the bed of the truck or trunk of the car.
As the former owner of one of these trailers I can tell you I always hated the way the tail lights stuck out on either side. They are very vulnerable to damage. Since you have a welder you might want to make up some kind of enclosure for them while you are at it.
Got to use the trailer yesterday to pick up my "new to me" xr400. I also went about 400 miles a few weeks ago,to help my father in-law go pick up his brand new grizzly 450.
Your trailer is looking good! I've been contemplating buying one of these 4x8 trailers to customize. Not to hijack your trailer build thread but I stumbled upon this HF trailer build the other day. The guy did a fantastic job!
And the reason there are no four wheeler tracks on those snow plow berms or the fresh snow is?? :ddog
Nice job. I owned a similar trailer in the past. My only suggestions are to replace the garbage castors that bolt to the trailer with better quality ones and weld them on... it makes all the difference because the shitty ones that come standard fall apart when the balls fall out. I always considered welding the rest of the frame but never got around to it and just sold it and bought an enclosed trailer instead. Also, being chinese steel... these rust. Make sure you stay on top of the rust with some wire and spray paint. Do the wires get pinched when you fold it flat? I remember my trailer rubbed together there along the two halves.