KTM 990 Adventure 2:1 with stock Exhaust

That corroborates what my SOTP dyno tells me.

I love to see clever DYI upgrades that save cash and reuse/ recycle stock parts. I never liked the look, sound and performance of the stock cans. I must say your exhaust work looks like a nice improvement. Thanks for sharing!

FWIW... and to those w/ the original FMF Q's... I turned the original FMF Q's into free-flowing shorties.



I purchased a set of used and rough-ish looking cans from the flee market. This is doable with the stock cans, as has been described. Not reinventing the wheel here, just showing another option. The nice thing about the Q's... only a few rivets & a metal band saw or grinder are needed. Perf tube is included. No welding, for those that can't / don't. Easy peasy.

When gutted, I was surprised to see how restrictive and heavy the baffling was as sent from FMF.



I basically removed this baffled section past the perf tube and cut the outer can down to the length of only the perf tube. The perf tube also has a very stout metal mesh around it to help the chosen fiberglass our stainless packing last longer. It erodes less from the inside out b/c of this layer of protection.

Now, in all honesty, it also removes the USFS approved SA. A screen spark arrestor must be used in the end cap for the conscious. The end cap "cap" has the USFS approval stamped on it. It sounds killer, looks killer, and tucks away from a crash... all for less than $200.



...and the pure LC8 soundtrack... priceless!!!

Great work! ...love the sleeper look!

1. yes that's the baffle pipe I used
2. pics below,
3. I am guessing you are referring to outlet dia.? if you add the spark arrestors you want to be at 42mm on the cap for the spark to fit.

Great stuff Tunp..very helpful. Thanks for chiming in Jrod152. Good to see what's inside am aftermarket can aa well. Did it get louder with the shorter cans?

I stumbled across this thread which talks about using the left exhaust as an aux fuel tank. Another creative use of stock stuff. An aux tank is something I want as well. Now got to deside how to use that left can. If both cans are in place, I only see the under the seat Aux tank as semi affordable option ($350ish). Might be more cost effective to make the left can the Aux tank and find another solution for a tool box. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=333598

It's throaty... just the way I like it!!!

It seems no louder than my previous Remus Ti Revolution w/ quiet insert removed.

Ok, it took a while but here it is:
I'll try to go thru the specifics but inmate Mesjr did the build so if I get something wrong, he can chime in.
Cut both ends off the stock cans and gutted. The inlet was welded back on and the inlet flange was bored and beveled to receive the 2" collector. The core is a 2" perforated pipe wrapped with layers of stainless screen, stainless wool and fiberglass. The end cap was drilled out to take an 1 1/2" pipe. A short 1 3/4" piece was welded to the inside of the cap to fit down into the perf. pipe.
The y-pipe is 2 x 1 3/4" welded into a 2" collector pipe. The 3 hole flange clamp was bored out to 2" and welded to the collector. About an 1/8" of the pipe extended past the flange clamp; thus was beveled to match the inlet bevel. I'll try to take some internal pics soon, gotta ride now.

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Nice build gents! Thanks for sharing and would love to see any additional picts taken.

Hey Maoule...Wondering how that new exhaust is treating you. Did you notice a change in torque? Did you have to remap it?

I found this article and it talks about perforated pipe size for straight through design based upon cc engine size. I realize that it focuses on cars but wonder how much of that translates over to our bikes. The article states 2" pipe is for engines over 1500cc. I know Tunp used a 1.5 inch pipe. I know it would be hard to compare without a dyno.

http://www.mikekemper.com/elantra/diyexhaust/index.html

Awesome! The sound is not noticable above the intake sound at hwy speed. The MPG went from 37-38 (airfilter, Sas, canis, and decatted mufflers) to 39-40. I'm running a stock map with exception of the f-l switch points (20, 20, 20, 25, 0, 0, 0, 0) and have switched off the sas.
Butt dyno: after the SW7 filter mod, 2nd gear wheelies were nearly roll-on, after the muffler mod, 3rd gear wheelies require a slight tug.
As to the 2" perf, my exit pipe is 33mm ID. Mesjr is running 2" all the way on his 950, so I don't know.

Maoule's bike runs great! Time to see if I can get the 950 tweaked a little more so he can't out drag me .
I can vouch for 3rd gear wheelies with just a chop and a tug .
And it is quiet .

Right on! I am excited to get going on this project. I will even try your map set up as I have a 2011 as well. I found a guy willing to sell me his stock cans for cheep so I can keep riding while I rebuild the cans. Do you know the weight savings?

If you're talking about the weight for the gut job per can, maybe 2-3 lbs. Shoot Mesjr a pm; he knows all the ins and outs. Hell, he might even do it for the right price. He's gotta pay for the new Tiger he just bought[emoji12]

Did you do the bends for the Y? If not, would you mind sharing where you sourced the material?

Thanks!

Here's my pipe, done by a friend with stock stuff. Connector cut out, reversed, and the other pipe closed off:



Gutted both stock cans, made the left one into a reserve gas tank:





Been using this set-up for 7 years now (mostly in the dirt), and have 34,000 miles on the SE. No problem with the stock size of exhaust pipe, because the "restriction" was neutralized by the free flowing pipe.

Advantages of this cheap solution:
1. No re-jetting needed.
2. Have an extra 1.5 gallons of gas, without changing the aesthetics of the bike.
3. The stock cans are bullet-proof. Multiple crashes, and the exhausts are better then the bumpers on your car. Just don't touch the right one!
4. Much better low end torque for the woods riding, and it is still a beast on the street, having no problems with wheelies or keeping up with the sport bikes!

http://m.ebay.com/itm/391052790496?nav=SEARCH

Their are several on ebay . If I had to do it over I would have used stainless though .

Just got the cans gutted, pipe cut and welded into a 2:1, and right can made welded back together with 1.5 inch perf pipe and wrapped with stainless steel wool and insulation. Got to ride it yesterday for about 20 miles.
What I noticed:
-bike ran 2-3 bars cooler
-can is way cooler
-more torque
-much louder...I like the sound but it's gunna piss the neighbors off when I leave for work early in the morn. Gunna try putting a spark arrestor in to see if that makes a difference
- there was some stumbling and hesitation going on. I plan on remapping but am wondering if the o2 sensors are causing this.

-camera failed but will get some picks up soon. Aux gas tank is next project

Did you do a 15 min. idle or reset adaptation with tune ecu? That will help with the roughness. Did you change the exit opening size? My outlet size went from 28mm to 34mm and while the exhaust note has a little more bark under throttle, I would say the sound isn't at all obnoxious putting through the neighborhood.