As I mentioned before, I bought an XT350 for my dad to ride. He is 66 and not in the best health, but its light enough he can get out and ride. Occasionally with me on the LC4. Then I'll take off on the little XT and it does all you ask of it. The 6 speed is wonderful. Its been making me rethink the LC4 as the bike I want to keep. :huh Now I'm second guessing the LC4 and thinking maybe a TT350 with lights would be a better choice as a swiss army knife type of bike.
thanks mine is running lean guess i'll have to jet it. i also can't wait to get back to good Mexican food and pretty girls. these nc hillbilly girls can get a little rough. i can raise my standards when i get there.
My bike is now drooling oil from the bottom end of the cylinder head. I had cut a gasket myself for it from klingeride sheet but i guess it was too weak. Original was metal gasket as i see from the parts list but it was absent when i first opened the engine. I ordered a new gasket from ebay. Untill that, i need the size of the O-Ring there. You can see it as No:5 below link Is there someone could measure it for me? http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xt350e-1993_model10017/partslist/A-07.html Best wishes SKY
Hi All! Due to some charging problems i decided to work on alternator of my bike. That way it would be a nice opportunity to learn the details about it. The XT350 electrical system has two coils for charging, one for ignition and a small pickup coil to trigger the ignition. The charging coils has branch from the middle of the coils which feeds the main lightning directly with AC voltage before being rectified(turn to DC) and regulated. I guess this is for avoiding loss of power while rectifying. The main cables from coils goes to reg/rect. unit which charges the battery, feeds the turn signals, park and stop lights. There are some measurements below: The wire diameter of the coils: 0.85mm (19/20 AWG) Number of turns: 320 Number of turns side to side of the coil in each layer: 40 (38mm wide) Number of layers: 8 Coil body height and width: 8mm x 23mm Length of wire wound aroun each coil: 26 meters The branch for main lightning is located at: 9 meters(or 17meters) The number of turns after and before the branch: 97 / 224 The total resistance of each coil 1,7 ohms I also attached the flywheel to a milling machine and made some more measurements while turning at 3000 rpm I will name the ends of the coils as GND - MID- END MID end is the branch between two main ends of the coils. (all AC, open circuit measurements) MID-END: 25V - 9A GND-MID: 11V - 4A GND-END: 35V - 3A I made tons of measurements with different number of turns and different diameter wires.. but couldn't get any significant output. I tried 1mm wire but the clearance between magnets and the coil was very narrow, it scratched. Less number of turns cleared but the voltage dropped a lot. The last setup was with 0,95mm wire. (18/19 AWG) 300 turns, 8 layers, 30V, 3.7A After satisfied the last results, i started to make measurements with the reg/rect. unit. At that point i found out that the unit was malfunctioning. I went out and bought a china made cheap reg/rect. unit for 10 usd. It worked like heavens. I have 14 volts at idle. When all the lights on, the voltage stays well over 12 volts at idle and around 13 volts at mid. RPMs. I got more than 100Watts I will keep you informed as soon as i got more detailed measurements Best wishes, SKY
Hey, SKY, does these help? http://img594.imageshack.us/i/03082010009c.jpg/ http://img716.imageshack.us/i/03082010010.jpg/ http://img827.imageshack.us/i/03082010011.jpg/ -JL
Can anyone give me some advice on this bike? Potentially going to buy it this weekend. http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/1873888491.html The following has been done in the last year: -seat cover -fork seals and gators with complete fork internal cleaning and new oil -tires and tubes -valves checked -valve cover gasket replaced -new sealed wheel bearings -used supertrapp exhaust added to replace stock exhaust -Brake fluid flushed and Oil changed (couple of times) What do you think?
We've got plenty of those kind too. What part of the state are you moving too? I'm central, holler if ya wanna ride sometime. SKI, glad to see ya digging into the stator. What was the original output of the stator? I'm curious to see how much you've improved it.
Falcon, The price seems right. The Supertrapp is a good upgrade, the airbox needs to be opened up and the jetting adjusted to make it run right. Make sure it's not running too lean (check the tip of the exhaust, also pull the plug and check for color) There's been a bunch on this in this thread to look at. Once all that's set it'll run like crazy. Otherwise typical "new to me" moto stuff, make sure it shifts thru all gears easily etc..... Tough bikes all around, hard to kill, cheap parts, not lots of aftermarket support but lots of fun to ride.
Hi If you had asked 2 weeks ago i could have mesured it as i had to replace the gasket on the bottom of the cilinder as it was leaking oil also It was a original yamaha gasket that i installed about a year ago, and just started to leak and then tore and began to fall off bit by bit I made one myself from thick gasket paper good luck for you Nuno
Seems a bit much to me for an '86. Depends on mileage, and what kind of shape it's in once you look closely at it. I got my latest one (a '98) here in Phoenix, in perfect condition for about $1500. I sold my well abused but strong running '93 with over 10,000 miles for $900. So, I'd say there's definitely wiggle room in that $1100 asking price. Make sure to check the intake boots, though you'll likely want to replace them right away anyway. If it's been run for a while with leaking intake boots, there may be deeper damage. Hope it works out for you either way! Psycho
I made a deal on another project like I needed it. My shop looks like a bike salvage yard now. (thats not my shop there. havn't picked it up yet) 85 or 86 TT350. <table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From 86 Yamaha XT350</td></tr></tbody></table> The good thing is its not going to cost a cent. I got a YZ490 Rolling Chassis I'm trading for it. The down side is it needs a piston and rings. The cylinder and head are just setting there. But with the better TT frame and Suspension should make a nice woods bike once tagged. I'm contemplating selling the LC4 if I get this put together. Its nice but not really my cup of tea to be honest with myself.
I have been checking, but their online shop seems to be down since some time... Please, could you provide more info? Does it fits well, what kind of bubble it has, available colors, how much it costs, is it approved for Europe, and so on? Thanks in advance -JL
Hi again folks! While messing with the charging system, I felt a little restless about the rest of the electrical system. When i first serviced the bike i changed the whole cables and made a new set from the beginning. All new cables new sockets etc. Now i see that some sockets i put were slackened and become unreliable due to strong vibrations bike made. Thought about a more reliable setup and voila! i found it. First setups were like this: And these are from the last work To make a neat cable harness, the lengths are critical. First, set all the wires and check all functions. "Le Cable Salad" This is the regulator/rectifier i have bought for 10usd, yellow cables for coils, others for DC output. This is worked like fuse box, i put all cables directly to this box and managed all connections from inside it. The result was very reliable and neat. Adding, changing cables, connecting, disconnecting and reconnecting is much easier on the go now because there was no special sockets, just screw type connectors and cables. Will take more pics tomorrow. SKY
