Hi all, i picked up a 91 dr350s cheap cheap a couple of months ago, in between putting it through it's paces as regularly as possible i've been trying to bring it back to some kind of respectable condition. Starting and running very nicely now i have to say after a couple of electrical hiccups. Here's a before and after (so far)....... [/IMG] [/IMG] and after (thus far......) [/IMG] [/IMG] Ok i have one frustrating problem, the preload adjustment (locking and adjusting nuts) are seized, i have had them constantly soaked in wd40 and penetrating oil for the last week, but cannot get it moving. I'm quite a big guy and really need the preload whacked right up! Does anyone have any helpful tips on how to free them, and how to make the adjustment without the proper tool, short of hitting them with a hammer and rod? (my modus operandi on all of my bikes) cheers in advance fellas
what have you used to get em un done ? have you tryed the dirty old hammer and punch ? (the shcock may just be enough to break the lock ) , propper c spanner or veide grips ?
Don't know what penetrating oil you've used but IMO forget the WD40... the solvents in it are better at removing lubricant than applying from my experience. As for penetrant I always use good old Marvel Oil. Rarely fails me, it really is what its name says!
just been the dirty old hammer method so far mate, they won't budge at all, just started to shear the teeth so i backed off quickly
My next move would be to use a very "light" dose of heat on the nuts "only" and make/borrow a C spanne as it will support the lug better. Take the shock out for bettera access
96 model se <2000 miles put new rubber on after a heavier shock spring/revalve. installed Nuetech Tubliss in both wheels & a pair of Shinkos. looking for sequence of actions for install & tightening of front wheels fasteners as i'm feeling a stronger gyro effect from the front wheel. note - i did use 2oz of lead to balance each wheel & need 3/4 oz more. oh, bought bike it had installed #1 Kouba link on back & lowered 3/4" i front... wonder if i erred in my install - first time pulling wheels off dr... dean front springs & spacers from eibach/racetech next...
If you still need 3/4 oz to balance, it'll feel way out and bounce the front end around. Tubliss requires a ton of weight to counterbalance the rim lock plate. dc
I just finsihed changing the oil on adr350 shock and went through this. The lock ring is a pain to get off. But it threads off away from the spring. Make sure you are beating in the right direction.
I've got to buy some parts for my 95 electric start model (mostly small pieces: carb parts, o rings, clamps etc). Where is the best place to buy OEM parts (price & dependability being important)?
Nearest dealer is 3 hours away... I've got part numbers so I had planned on ordering online. Thanks. Anybody else have somewhere they like to order from?
I check dealer first then go to bikebandit.com If you are an AMA member you also get a 10% discount.They are also in Las Vegas so shipping time to you should be pretty fast if they have it in stock. For me, I get it next or 2nd day via standard shipping in central Calif.
I've had really good luck with http://www.ronayers.com/fiche ALWAYS cheaper than the local dealers and they have excellent customer service.
I've found http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp to be nearly the cheapest on pretty much all the OEM parts I order, so they get my business. Whenever I've checked with local dealers, they want a lot more money and take more time to fulfill my order than do online stores (and most online stores for OEM parts do not stock all of our parts...so there is generally a wait regardless of who you buy from). Then I have to make the trip to pick up the parts and pay local sales tax. I'm sure local dealers fill a need for some folks, but I don't see an advantage for myself. Regards, Gregory Bender
I recently got a Moose shark fin rear disc guard that is supposed to bolt right up to the caliper holder on my 97 350SE. The directions state that there are 2 threaded holes on the holder but I only see one on the rear of the holder. There is a a place on the front bottom that almost looks like it should be a hole but it's plugged up with aluminum (?) - it looks like it's made that way. If there was a hole there it would be in the right spot. Has anyone else ran into this? I can drill it out I guess, but it really doesn't seem worth the hassle. Any ideas would be good.
Here's one - The bottom tab on the right is threaded - on the left there's a tab but no hole. It truly looks as if it was made that way. The screws would go in from the outside.
Yep just drill and tap them or even drill and put a bolt right through with a nut on the end , not a problem.
