yea my main concern was how much pressure the oil has in that line and if i can do the hose and clamp way like you did. thanks for the info!
thanks for the info guys, right now im waiting for a shift shaft seal so i can do it while i have the bike apart for the waterpump stuff.
Cut mine like in Renaissanceman's photo near his bottom cut and then just ran the hose all the way up to the oil tank flange which eliminated the upper gear clamp and the second cut.
Interesting cover. Any details? I only changed the bottom fitting. The oil tank is unchanged. No issues with pressure. Only becomes an issue when it's blocked, but the last thing you should worry about than is the oil hose. I simply reused the old banjo and had an elbow and 1/2" barb silver soldered on to it. Any hydraulics shop should be able to do it. Bread and butter work for them. In hindsight I reckon it's overkill though. As I said, you can get the OEM tube flared where you cut it, like it is on the oil tank, and with a hose clamp should be ample to hold the tube on. It's not massive pressure so flaring it might even be overkill. I routed it forward because that give maximum space getting the cover off and more importantly on which is the hardest. I wouldn't go with a stainless tube to be honest. Most are rated for fuel (not the same) and you can't inspect the state of the rubber which can get hard and than brittle and the rest should be obvious. It rubs the paint of the case as well where it touches. Notice how I had to clamp it onto the water pump barb to keep it off the exhaust.
Me? Which cover? I like the looks of your ss line better though. I just got some high pressure oil line from the local Napa auto store. Green in color :huh but whatever. Works. I did not flare the steel line after I cut it but marked it with a Sharpie and kept an eye on it. Has not moved in 5000+ miles.
Yeah, didn't look right. Was a bit rushed this morning and thought you had those removable clutch covers. That steel tubing sucks I reckon. Good day in the dust or mud and it won't look like that, and everything else it black anyway.
One more question... I am currently running Anakees on my '07, but want to change them to D606s this spring. The fork bridge makes things look a little tight. Do I need to modify anything to run the knobbies? It looks like there may be spacers on the bridge. Any advice before I do the change up? Any advice is appreciated. Kim
my 02 dakar had dunlop d606s on it with no problems with the fork brace. it was pretty close but still had a little clearance.
Thanks, Kubiak. Unless I hear otherwise, the knobbies are a go. I've used these on my other bikes and am looking forward to getting them on the Dakar. It likes the dirt best!
yea mine had a set of 606s when i bought it, i now have the yz inverted forks. at the most if it was so close you could add a few washers under the brace i would think.mine had the stock spacers and i took them out and the knobbies still fit. good luck!
Sorry I missed your earlier post. I bought the lights in the vendor forum here and they turned out to be garbage, bought six and all broke, some within days, others lasting longer but eventually dead within months. Now I'm using similar looking ones bought directly from the OEM maker that are built to higher specs (more robust drivers and leds) and they're holding up much better. Cheaper as well. Check them out here, they're having a Christmas sale. http://24x7diy.com/specials.php Don't notice any vibrations, will post up some measurements later.
For the Dakar I recommend the 4 high power Cree XPG R5 leds. They're bright but only draw 40 watts for the pair so they leave you with enough juice leftover to simultaneously power heated gear and grips. http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/194 But if you don't care about conserving juice and don't mind spending more, these 3000 lumen 4 high power Cree XML T6 leds are the ultimate in brightness with a total 60 watt draw for the pair. http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/94 For wiring I used a Piaa 74040 harness that includes a relay and a waterproof illuminated switch, but just about any harness will work.
Lost one of my stock cases - this seems to work. Size is about midway between the expanded and collapsed OEM box. This is the Pelican 'storm' case. Its a bit lighter and cheaper than the regular case. I laid up a fiberglass panel for the cutout. Mounts to the stock hangers. Happy Holidays!