I'm not sure what I'm looking at there. Are those some sort of rubber plug insert you've put into the threaded foot peg holes? I like the knurled bolt. Might save time getting those 12mm bolts out to remove seat. I use only ONE bolt to hold my seat on. Once in a while DR owners lose a side panel screw. I put a couple plastic washers on mine which tend to keep the screw in place without having to Loc Tite it. My first year with the DR I was into things a lot so constantly removing seat, side panels, tank and Carb. Once I finally got things working, only go in for routine maintenance. Most of my maintenance is Tires, Sprockets and Cush drive bumpers and Cushion link lubing. When you use up your stock DID O ring chain, I'd go with a top of the line DID X Ring chain. They've got a whole new line of X Ring chains now, which I've not tried. But I've been using their DID 525, VM-2, X Ring Gold for about ten years now (on several bikes). I routinely get 25,000 out of a chain if I change front sprockets every 8K miles or so. That extends chain life considerably (in my experience) ... I guess I've done over 150,000 miles on these VM-2 DID chains. Best I've found. On my DR650 I got about 12K miles on the original stock O ring chain. Could have pushed it a bit further ... ? I'm now on my 2nd DID VM-2 chain. I got 24K on the first one, up to about 15K on current chain. Just over 50,000 miles on my DR650.
Great info---really good--I will do the same by the way---replacing the chain early. Yes, I was going to just thread some bolts in those holes just to keep the threads--I don' t know--I'm bored and I like to play. Best to just buy a project sometimes--- I ordered some of those knurled thumb screws from mcmaster carr--and...I'm an idiot about losing hardware.
You can buy kits for KTM style replacement bolts or I'd recommend just go get what you need. 5mm and 6mm thread shafts are the common ones. I had years of spares to dig thru but yeah, get the shaft diameter and length you need and head to a KTM dealer or just bring the bolts with you. They even have ones with a washer fixed to the head so you eliminate the loose part that can get lost while apart! It is really nice to grab the mini 8mm T and just give the entire bike a quick snug check.
I can't understand why any sort of KTM hardware would be better than Japanese fasteners, which on the DR, are mostly are very good. No bling factor, but good fasteners. I'd stick with stock fasteners when possible and practical. That way you know the toughness rating is correct for use intended. Very very few things loosen up on the DR650. I've crossed Baja 4 times on my DR with LOTS of off road. Not one thing came loose or was lost. Not much Loc Tite on my bike. On most Japanese bikes, things just seem to stay put? Go figure! I can do most maintenance with about 4 sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm. Add front and rear axle wrenches and a JIS screwdriver, you're pretty much set. Easiest bike to work on ever! (mostly because it never needs any work! )
Last line is why I picked it. And, I'm like a baseball utility player with maintenance and repair. If I'm overexposed all my faults become glaringly apparent. I do line the idea of fasteners with the same size hex...mainly just all that switching back and forth, back and forth. :) Grins...
When you work on a KTM or true non BMW Husky, you "get it". I went from 5 tools to tear down my N300 fairings to one. It was worth the effort to convert. I'm amazed Kawi and the other Japanese builders haven't done this just to make the assemble easier.
Many have. My former V strom had about 12 bolts to remove plastic. All same hex size. My Triumph Tiger 1050 is the same. Triumph used to be terrible ... way too many fasteners, improper length and all different sizes. Much improved now. With KTM you need short cuts ... cause you've got more maintenance and repair. Honestly, the DR650 doesn't require much at all. I've owned 3 KTM's and sampled several others. Love 'em. But typical service was more involved, not a deal breaker but there it is.
I'll race you thru an air filter change. I may never again remove my Ninja 300 fairings or seat, but I'll only need my 8mm T if I ever do. It pissed me off enough the few times I stripped the bike that I was sure to replace all the offending bolts/screws.
So, about 200 miles yesterday. Ran through the Pine Barrens from sugar sand to packed dirt---and up in Mercer/Hunterdon on a few roads I know that are rocky washouts---I'm really happy with the front end. For the first time ever I own a bike that eats that up, even when being very aggressive. The WR ate it up--but differently--just it felt bicycle-ish, more like my BMX days in the way you handled it. THIS experience is very new. .60 Racetechs, with their emulators, set at stock, 22mm of pre-load spacer and 19 oz of 10w per shock. Now, the rear--fears or concerns/comments there were spot on. (I put in the stiffer Racetech with the stock spring rate without rebuilding the shock). There's awesome shock stiffness--perfect, IMO---with not enough rebound damping. However, even on some whoops, it was livable, and as I rode, I thought there was no reason to change it--we'll see. Right? RAM ball eyelet on the L/S mirror needs to be slid left a bit--or right, I can't adjust the GPS angle correctly. The front brake line with vapor cable zip tied has appropriate travel at the top, but it's rubbing the inside of the windscreen--so, I'd like to correct that. Exhaust is popping on decel--so I think the carb isn't quite set right---I have to read the notes from Procycle about the carb jetting/needle setting....I imagine I'm set right (150 jet with opened air box and Q4 exhaust) but I still need to read the notes about what it says regarding such pop. Occasional stalling when rolling to a stop with throttle closed and clutch pulled in. ALL THAT SAID....it pulls so strongly so perfectly--it sounds great---and I LOVE how the suspension feels. The seat though? Butt tenderizer at 80 miles....
If you push it hard on whoops or jumps, the stock shock can bounce you forward over the bars if you don't add some rebound damping. It can unload with a fury.
Nice Bill For reference, my bike does not pop or rarely pops on decel in summer. Will sometimes pop a little in winter if that makes any sense, but not loud like Harley. Lol I have has stalls when chopping the throttle closed but its also very rare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Yup Kommando---I felt it on my initial shake down ride, there's a spot where I said, "whoa, now, there it is" But that's something I can manage with the throttle. I have to wait. Frank--Yes, something isn't quite right--I used the middle jet (150)--which is what it's supposed to for a aftrmarket, but not a full on race exhaust--maybe I misjudged the Q4 when I made the selection of the middle jet. still all good, thanks for the comments, I couldn't do this without you.
Do you have an air/fuel screw Bill? Been in and out on that yet? If air screw, turn it in and if fuel, go out. How many turns out from full closed is it now?
Nice thread and build but mostly thanks for the "don't ride with Brad" distraction and decal info. Too good to pass up. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
The fuel screw is just under two turns out. Your question made me look at it again--I need to reset it just to be sure.... The Nate and Brad story is among the best on the site.
If it runs better at 3 or more out, upsize the pilot jet one step next and readjust it. Tell me if I'm telling you stuff you already know BTW! And don't break your neck with that shock! I'd rather ride with the softer spring, and it probable lacks enough rebound for that already. If you need a cheapo revalve, I'll send you my guys info. Excellent and inexpensive.
No, definitely not telling me things I already know. Yeah, send me the info--I'll buy the Procycle DIY kit minus the spring and just get it done. I have 3 weeks in August where I can't ride.
The BST on the DR will decel pop with just about any aftermarket exhaust. The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot jet. Originally posted by LexTalionis: "Two or three posters yesterday asked about DR’s backfiring, probably on deceleration. Didn’t see an answer, so here’s mine. Most street bikes with carburetors have a decel circuit built into the carb to meter in a bit of fuel on closed throttle, to prevent or greatly reduce backfiring on deceleration. My KLR has this, as has every pure street bike I’ve owned. The simpler DR carb does not have this circuit, hence you will be hearing more backfiring than other bikes you may own or have owned. This is not a problem, rather it is simply a characteristic. Lex P.S. As an aside, the rubber diaphragm in the decel circuit of my KLR has a tear in it, and so my KLR now backfires almost as much as my DR."
It's true that most DR's pop on decel. Mine does, but not a bother at all with stock muffler. (Yet another reason I sold off my loud FMF Q2 ) Also, in dozens of tuning threads, most agree: the stock 42.5 Pilot Jet works best. Certainly the case during my one year of jetting experiments. Stock Pilot is .... The Way! I tried 3 different ones. Always came back to stock 42.5. Also ... with a 150 main jet and stock Pilot Jet, 3 turns out on the Fuel Screw would be Rich. I run a 155 main, open air box, stock muffler, twin air filter, screen removed, stock Pilot, and 1 turn out on fuel screw ... less at high altitude. Tuned for sea level. Runs strong, 48 to 50 mpg.
I'd defer to the experts but you guys forgot he is also stalling while coasting to a stop. There is something out of sorts for sure. Bill, if you can, on flat smooth tar, try perfectly steady speed and throttle cruise at the lowest RPMs it'll pull, then incrementally work up the throttle. You will be looking for any signs of surging. That will probably be lean, and it can be very slight. How did you come to your fuel screw adjustment?
