the DR650 thread

One more, same day as above.

- Chris

i got a white one !!!

That is what OJ and Tiger Woods said!

I took some pictures last weekend of my wife's DR in Osceola Forest in Florida. The latest addition is the Screens for Bikes windshield. The seat is a Rick Mayer. I really like the Vapor speedometer. It's a bit of a pain to figure out the mounting the first time but it does work very well.

Still in Osceola Forest in Florida.

Last pic.

What tail bag is that? It seems to fit the stock rear rack well with those bungees and is about is large without being cumbersome.

The tail pack is a Nelson Rigg expandable model. The picture shows it in the unexpanded condition. The top of the main compartment unzips and extends upward and adds enough volume to fit a jacket. Each of the three side pockets also expand and they double in size. The bike has the optional Suzuki rack and I mounted a flat aluminum plate to add easy accessable eye bolts for the bungees. The pack is very secure on the rack.

So I bought a short side stand for my lowered DR650. Where do the
bracket and small cap nut go? I thought that the bracket may go on
the inside bike side of the mounting bolt but apparently not. And I
have not the faintest idea about the cap nut. Thanks for any
suggestions.

What I've always done is to simply spray WD40 on the pipe after washing and after rain riding. Baked on mud should be dealt with ASAP after dirt riding. A wire wheel or brush will break it down.

But from my Enduro days, WD40 should go all over entire exhaust/muffler all the way back. (Yes, it will smoke upon start up but will burn off in 10 minutes)

You don't need paint.

Since you have a GS background you may want to realize your on a dual sport bike now. The fact is, the BMW was TOO HIGH, and TOO far back, especially for off road use.

I see guys raising the bars WAY the hell up and back. There is a reason for the bar position that has you leaning forward a bit. The bike will perform better when you are in the "attack" position.

Sure, modify it how you like, but be aware the guys who set the bike up also tested it on and a lot of OFF road and IMO, came up with a pretty good position.

So perhaps think about getting in better shape so the transition from
seated to standing isn't so hard for you. Being up and leaning forward
means the front will hook up better .... and ultimately you will ride better, once you adapt.

Don't try to re-invent the wheel to make the DR like your GS. That is a big mistake.

Dual Sport/Dirt bikes are very sensitive weight bias. The most I'd do is maybe a bar riser and a high bend bar. From there I'd try to adapt.
The more time off road you spend practicing the less chance for more
collarbone breaks.

You'll learn to love it, you just don't know it yet.

Agreed. First thing I would check after draining float bowl. Fill and drain a couple times. No luck? Pilot jet most likely. It's a very tiny jet, clean carefully, use high pressure air if possible.

Hey Killer650:

Is that a Russell seat on your bike ?
Love mine on my KLR; I llike the way yours looks !

I have that same Nelson-Rigg. I don't use it for travel, but OK for day trips.

Much prefer my Wolfman on a longer, tougher ride. Nelson-Rigg too tall, too top heavy.



Hey Killer, can you tell us how the Screen works at cruising speeds?
Like at 60 to 75 MPH? Noise? Buffeting? Any comments would be great. Price?

The seat is a Rick Mayer seat. Rick Mayer is the son of the man who started building Mayer seats and the Russell is based on the originial Mayer design.

The shields total cost including shipping is $140 Austrailan dollars (Approx $119 U.S.). Email peter@screensforbikes.com. The shield is effective in relieving upper wind blasts to the chest at highway speeds. The wind hits you at helmet level and is similar to a stock KLR. Some people will like it and some people won't.

My DR650 has the Staintune stainless steel header and looked as if it was going rusty. My DR400E, with the standard header looked the same. I read somewhere on a forum about gently rubbing the 'rusty' areas with a low impact sandpaper as it's not rust but baked on mud.

Well I had a go on both and they've come up like new. I agree with someone's reply about WD40 - I now do the same and it seems to keep everything looking great!

I just replaced my clogged pilot jet 100 + miles ago and all has been well till today. I noticed a smell of raw fuel after I filled up. It has been running perfect since my carb work and then at lunch it was hard to start.

On the way home it ran fine till I pulled in and the engine died 200' from my toy hauler. Got off the flooded sucker and found fuel runnning out of the carb's hose that runs down to the ground.

Stuck float?? What did I screw up?? I need to get this sucker fixed for good, I'm afraid of it leaving me stranded.

I added a jet kit and new pilot jet this week thinking my gummed up carb issue was history and I put over 100 miles on it. I'm glad it died near the RV and not in the woods. The float O-rings looked good, needle valve looked new... Any advise?

Could it be a simple float level issue.... I need vernier calipers. :huh

What makes the float stick? It doesn't seem to bind etc.

I bought an '07 today that came with a Safari (8gallon?) tank and a Corbin seat installed. I like the seat, but the tank is maybe a bit much for my pruposes. Does anyone know if the Corbin that is on it and fits with the Safari would also work with other (smaller) tanks? I understand that it would not work with the stock tank (which I have).

Thanks.

Barry

My understanding is Corbin has 2 seats for the DR. One for the stock fuel tank and one that fits the aftermarket tanks. Yes it will