Appreciate you sharing your knowledge Sateev, i really do. That makes sense, u know right now im in the curve of knowing from head to toes this bike and this info. is really worth gold. I get the point in beading with threebond the right way. Rubber cam plug is #17 on this blueprint right? http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/2006/DR200SE/CYLINDER+HEAD/parts.html Because that plug is all nasty covered with threebond, will replace. And now i realize the petcock is leaking gas but im already checking the previous posts on this thread where go over this topic though. I hope no one smokes around the moto parking spot at school until i get it fixed Thanx again Sateev, cheers!
Any one know the biggest shinko 705 that will fit dr200se front and rear? Seen this picture can't find sizes he used This is the size I want on my dr... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The bike belongs to DeeR200, he'd probably be the most reliable source of info on the tires. regards, Jeff
Been thinking about buying a Chinese 150 Ruckus clone for kicing around the 'hood but came across a 2001 DR200 with fewer than 50 miles for nearly the same money. Considering picking up the DR instead. I know this info had been repeated but this is a looong thread; have there been any appreciable changes over the years? Anything a 2001 is lacking vs. later model years? TIA. Tipsy
TipseyMcStagger: I'm with Klay. And please do'nt ask me how I know, but at least some of the PRC clones are'nt quite clones. regards, Jeff
LOL...I know they're junk (the clones). This is the one I was thinking about (along with all the out of the crate maintenance listed in that thread). I'm going to look at the DR, if it's still available. Tipsy
This may not be possible, or it may be an indication of some other problem, but on my new-to-me 2003 DR200, with less than 2000 miles, the clutch does not engage until the lever is at least 90% out. I wonder if there is some way to get it to engage closer to the grip. I have two FZ1's (clutch cables) and a Concours Classic (hydraulic clutch), and they all engage much closer to the grip. It almost feels like I'm really slipping the clutch until it engages. Is there a way to visually inspect the clutch plates and tell if they're slipping? TIA Larry aka CharlieDog Bristol, TN
Probably a wise choice Tipsey. And hey, look at DeeR200s ride. With those tires and fenders, it oozes "hooligan" attitude! regards, Jeff
The way to check if the clutch is slipping is to go slow in top gear and roll on the throttle all the way to the stop. If the engine revs without road speed increasing at the same rate, it's slipping. You can adjust the point of engagement at the handlebar or further down the cable housing. But 90% out sounds about right. If you adjust the clutch so that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, the shifting will get stiff and balky.
Mine did the same thing when i picked it up from the previous owner. Only 3700 miles on it. It kinda felt like it wasn't engaging all the way. Come to find out (through the thumpertalk forum) there's a second adjuster located half way down the the cable (resting on the side of the frame down tube) that i fiddled with until i got the clutch feel just right. Haven't had any problems since!! Good luck.
Took advantage of a sunny 'winter' day in the PNW and pulled the Little Bike out of the garage for a ride. Don'tcha' know after a nice run-about, and nearly home, the front brake lever started feeling spongy. At the end of my road (cul-de-sac) I decided to give it a solid squeeze, and it went straight back - no resistance. I thought "Well, it's either the master cylinder, or it's holed.." started looking around and sure enough - left side of the front tire coated in brake fluid and the line is torn through... eh - 14 year old brake line, I guess it's about time for a replacement. ...at least it happened close to home, and I got a nice ride in first.
Thanks for the heads up on the 2nd cable adjuster. I thought there might be one but did not see it the other end of the cable, and it didn't hit me that it might be in the middle. At the moment I'd say it does not engage until it's 95% out. Larry aka CharlieDog Bristol, TN
I second that thanks! My clutch engages way too close to being completely let out also. I'll take a look for the middle adjustment tomorrow. I just installed a set of 1" Tusk handlebar risers today but i didn't ride. I'm hoping that this will get the airflow just over the top of my head with my Spitfire S-06 windshield. In stock configuration it was catching my visor. Annoying & was deep freezing my dome with the temps here in SE Oregon still in the 20's.
Another question oh wise ones on the forum: does removing the plug from that screw under the carb (not sure what that screw is called or what it does) and adjusting that screw have any effect on cold-bloodedness? I've started riding the bike with the temps in the 40's and realize just how bad the bike is compared to my other bikes. I really don't want to re-jet it, I re-jetted a Suzuki Bandit years ago and mucked it up such that the bike never ran right afterwards. I finally fixed it by trading the bike in for a different one, but I learned my lesson. I've seen references to tilting the carb for access to that plug, and wonder if the throttle cable needs to be dis-connected from the carb so the carb can be rotated. TIA Larry aka Charliedog Bristol, TN
Yes it is cold blooded. It's a 4 stroke with 80's technology. It will not run right when it is cold with stock jetting. There really is not a way around it. Mine runs perfect at any temperature because I have the jet kit. It is really easy to install and theoretically should run perfect after that. The jet kit will give you instructions on how to set everything.
Maybe others are better at it than me, but I have to take the throttle cables off to get the carb to rotate enough to work on it. The Kientech jet kit works perfectly, so you shouldn't be afraid of going that route if you decide to. But you'll need to get that brass plug out regardless.
I can only speak for my DR....yes ...little suzi is cold blooded!!! I did the air-screw mod two years ago after getting frustrated with its cold start performance and WOW what a difference it made. I can now start the 200 at around the 40f mark with no choke and no crack of the throttle with completely stock 2001 jetting. below 40f i only need partial choke. Once i hit 32f i have to use full choke and 30 seconds worth to get it warmed it enough to idle on its own. i think i have it set at around 2-3 turns out on the air/fuel screw. Haven't had to reset it since then!! If you're gonna do the mod...a word of warning...don't use a dry-wall screw to try and pull the brass plug out. my first attempt ended with the tip of the screw snapping off in the plug. then i had to match the plug size with a drill bit and bore it out the rest of the way. also don't drill too far past the plug....you run the risk of ruining the flat tip slot on the factory screw....which will render all of your efforts fruitless! good luck!!!
