Someone talk me out of this. Over the winter I looked around for a new tug to bolt my old Velorex to. I dont really have a specific bike I am looking for. It just has to be quirky, old and cheap. I have been looking for an early 1000 Goldwing but someone has decided that they are collectable now and I cant seem to find a decent one in my budget (around $1500). Anyway I have noticed several CX's for sale on the local C/L cheap. I spent a summer riding a 80's GL-500 Silverwing and really like the bike. I was really surprised how many CX based hacks were out there upon doing a search. First thing I thought of is the subframe will be a nightmare to build but the one above doesnt look too difficult . At about 50 HP thats right where I am looking for. I am running around 45 on the XS-650 I use now and it gets the job done. Not wanting to build a highway rig , Just something to ride to work and take the kids for rides. Am I crazy?
The difference between insanity and genius is measured only by success....i say go for it, anything can be done. Should be fun.
Ive been thinking about a cx my self to build a winter rig. seems like a really good bike. really cool to.
We have done a few, They make great sidecar bikes. They are also one of the few bikes that the Velorex company at one time supplied bike specific NOT universal mounts for. At this time, we can not supply the mounts. The jig got lost in our last move. We can still supply mounts for the very similar GL500 silverwing. Jay G DMC sidecars www.dmcsidecars.com 866-638-1793
One advantage of the CX is that it will be eay to find a 16 inch front wheel from another Honda model, to reduce trail. You could use the same tires on all three wheels too, if you build the sidecar with a CX wheel. 16 inch flat tread Dunlop side car racing tires would then fit all wheels.
The GL500 I rode was a torquey little booger. I think that whole class of bike would make a real nice tug, if you can solve the open-frame issue and get some mounts on it! I hear they can have some electrical issues, though, and some of the ignition parts are supposedly getting a tiny bit difficult to find. But I suppose there is always something like that with any weird old bike! Apparently some people are retrofitting the CB900C rear wheel and disc brake to them, to get rid of the drum rear. Supposedly it will bolt right up, except for having to fabricate something to mount the rear MC. I had a similar issue (re not having a cradle frame) with my Hawk. Let me know if you want details of what I did to get a front-lower mount. It looks scary, but I've had zero trouble with it, and through some pretty rough off-road stuff and jumping over cattle bridges... Someday I'll get me a CX650 Turbo............ Yeah! Whatever you do, be sure to post a build log!!!!!
Hey Mighty! There must be something contagious because your "insanity" influenced me before I even found this thread.... I'm just about to marry a '81 GL500 to a Velorex 526L and got stopped at the open frame puzzle. I'ld be interested in what you did. Can you post more pictures of the subframe you created? You can PM if you want.
I'm seriously considering a CX or GL tug for my ballasted SOA Eagle. In any case I need a cheap bike, and they seem to qualify and be reliable minus stator and ignition issues. So, I am wondering--- Is the CX series substantially better than the GL for a forest service roads / gravel / rural slab tug? The Silverwings look to have lower ground clearance but I also know they have air adjustable shocks- will they raise it back up to the CX's clearance or close? Is the suspension better for a hack? What do people think of the SidecarBob angle-iron subframe design? Good enough to survive some dirt? Several seem to have been made and proven roadworthy in regular use. What could I do to have the same larger-than-16" wheel size all around? Could a 19" rear be fit? Or an 18" on both front and rear? I presume I'd put the same size on my bucket and do a body lift, but have not checked clearances yet. I'd like to run identical F/R trials-type tires all around. Also, is 500cc enough to push the outfit to reasonably safe freeway speeds if I need to? I strongly prefer to avoid interstate but I might need to run I-10 from AZ to CA this winter. I'd have significant camping gear aboard and my shepherdess in the bucket. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Go for it! A CX is a very nice reliable tug, and cheap to run. They also make good sidecar pullers. The subframe you posted is a pretty complicated version, it can be done much simpler, the engine is a stressed member, it can take the forces of a tub. I have gathered some information for a CX sidecar form Doug Bingham an Sidecar Bob. PM if you want to have it.
Actually, the GL and 82-83 CX has the TI not the CDI, and is much more reliable with stators than the earlier CX. I thoroughly enjoyed my GL, and felt that as a first bike it was awesome. My biggest concern was how heavy it felt in turns, something you don't have to worry about with a sidecar attached. As far as the bike went, it was dead reliable; set it up properly, tune the carburetor, work on the suspension (definitely give those swing arm bushings a good lubing for the GL, mine were squeaky but quieted down) and ride. The bikes take a beating and keep right on going. As for off roading, I can say that I took my bike on gravel roads but never any of the gnarlier stuff. The GL Interstate had dual front disc brakes and progressive springs; if you put in a stiffer fork oil and steel braided brake lines, the front felt really good. The rear might be a problem, the monoshock is difficult to adjust or rebuild. Some folks have been able to retrofit modern shocks to them but it does take a bit of knowhow and ingenuity. With the sidecar, you'll definitely want stiffer shocks for the added weight, especially if you want to go off road. Check out CX500forum.com for a ton more information. The tough part about adding on a car is that the bike lacks a lower frame (the engine hangs from the topmost support/frame) but more than one person has managed to get around that problem. But I think this is an excellent start for a decent rig!
You want a GL500, check this out, not mine. Found it over on the Regional Form for the North Wet...... http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mcy/4535596274.html
Portland is just too far to go for a bike given my cage's dilapidated condition and the price of gas. I'm hoping to keep within AAA's 200-mile teleport-home or at least no more than 200 bucks towing beyond that. Plus my psycho-bitch-murderous-ex moved there after taking most of our nice stuff and all our life-savings on my last bike trip. Bad woowoo to get a bike from The Selfrightous Fruitopia of Portlandistan while she's there- she's cyber-stalking me and will surely spread more lies (she is a pro after-all) if I come near her "home town". I'm about 50% sure I'm getting a CX or GL, 25% sure I'm getting a XS650, and 25% of me thinks I'll come up with a dirt-cheap KLR seemingly in need of a carb clean. This week the cheap Hondas are hiding, cheap XS's seem mythological locally, but atm there's a 750 buck kinda-running KLR on CL just 200 miles away (that's close when living in Nowhereistan). I worry with a GL that I won't have enough ground clearance on F.S. roads but I'm not finding much info on its range of adjustment with extra air. Is the ground clearance noticeably worse than a CX? Does the CX650 have noticeably less clearance than the 500? How is the Silverwing luggage in practice? It looks somewhat small. Does it leak?
The CX/GL650 does indeed have less ground clearance than the CX/GL500 because of it's oil sump. The GL500 has a bit less than the CX500 because of the suspension, but the air suspension is nice. The GL forks can be slid down in the triple clamps for a little extra clearance and the air suspension can be pumped up. The GL luggage is indeed small but I haven't had any problem with leakage. I've owned 2 CX500s and currently own a GL500 Interstate.
Yeah, I'd like the KLR better when roads get nastier and less otherwise, so it seems a wash. Its got the button and I need that. It sits too high and will need mods to work as a rig for me, but they're common and so are used parts. It might need a pro-built subframe more than the other bikes... more money, too poor for a KLR? 97% of where I expect to go, I could get in a minivan. That's down from maybe 95% on my CT90/140s. I'm basing that off of my experiences on the CDR and locally, and my ability to drive well of course. One concern with a thumper is I have a messed up right wrist due to ex's first attempt to murder me. I'd probably need to spend to reduce the vibrations in the bars. My CT-Lifan140 turned my right hand almost totally numb for 2 months after my CDR ride. Also, I think I'd need to lower it, or else get off, to push it backwards. That can all be dealt with, but it all costs. I think I'll probably get a CX/GL or XS and lift a bit if needed. I ride slow on nasty roads anyhow. But I'll be open to whatever God/dess brings my way too
Glad to be helpfull. Please, if you encounter any special problems or find nice solutions, mail me the pictures, and the solution. Ill put it on the site to make a build database.
The most profound idiot I have ever known got a CX 500 for his first bike. He bought it in Minneapolis because he needed to go to Texas. "Do these things need, like, oil? Like a car?" Got a helmet at the goodwill and a few days later showed up in Texas. I showed him how to inflate the tires, lube cables, change oil, etc. and he took off for Chihuahua on it. Copper Canyon. Then he sold it in Corpus for twice what he'd paid for it, $500USD. I must reluctantly admit that any machine that could take his world-class brutish neglect and stupidity must be a good one, and it will easily take any sidecar abuse that you could give it.
I know this post is ancient, but there's a JAWA sidecar subframe for the CX500 on eBay right now. For not a lot of money... Also, want to clear up misinformation: The CB900 wheel or GL1100 Comstar wheel is not a direct fit by any means. You need special bearings for the rim - 15x52x16 and 15x47x14. You also need to machine a new distance collar with a 15mm ID. Then the wheel will slide on the axle and mate with the final drive. For a GL500 you'll need to use the CB900 or GL1100 caliper bracket. However it has to be machined down and bushed to fit the 15mm axle. You will also have to weld on a stay of some sort for the caliper bracket. The OEM GL500 axle will also have to be machined to remove the built-in spacer. For a CX500 all of that is true, except you use an 80s CB750F caliper bracket and run it under-slung. The shocks take up all the room above the swingarm, and the CB750F caliper bracket has the mount for the stay on the other side. Unlike the GL500, the underslung caliper bracket can attach to the OEM drum brake stay. You need a special shoulder bolt from McMaster Carr to make it work. You'll also need to machine a new spacer between the brake caliper stay and the bearing for the CX, as the spacing is slightly different. The CB900C rear wheel is a 16 incher, just like stock, but the GL1100 rear wheel is a 17 incher, which opens up a whole world of dual sport tires for a 19/17 tire combo. There are lots of options in the 5.10x17 or 130/80/17 size. Finally, since this is a sidecar thread, the CX500 comes with a single piston caliper and single disc up front for all years except 1982. Not really suitable for a hack. The 1982 has different forks, and they're pretty rare anyways, so no sense looking for the 82 caliper. But, you can use a DOHC CB750C or CB900C front left caliper and bracket. They fit right on the CX500 Standard, Deluxe, and Custom fork lowers. Now you'll have a much better two piston caliper up front. Snag a GL500 disc to go with the new caliper to finish the job. Charles.