You might need to give a clearer explanation of how it is moving but I will take a guess: You must have had the engine running with the inspection covers removed. I'm assuming that you are seeing movement at the end of the rocker arm in a direction other than up and down? Doesn't sound good. It's possible that there is play either rocker on the shaft or shaft in the cover. Alternatively you could be seeing the rocker twitch up and down, during its movement rather than moving smoothly throughout its range. I wouldn't expect you to notice this with the engine running but you could when turning the engine by hand. This would point to a worn camshaft or bearings If you have either of these issues I would expect a bit of noise from the rocker area when the bike is running which you don't mention, however I would be removing the rocker cover to investigate. No gaskets required but you will need some goo to reseal the rocker cover afterwards.
If your fuel mixture screw doesn't have an effect then there's obviously an issue with the low speed circuit in the carb, either too little fuel and it's being held above that circuit with the idle adjust or too much fuel to where the adjustment becomes insignificant. With the bike idling lightly run the mix screw into the stop and see if there's a change in RPM, if there's no change than that circuit isn't having it's required effect. Until you get that sorted out it's doubtful you'll ever get a decent throttle response off idle. Often these days it's the crappy fuel drying up in the carb orifices, not necessarily clogging them but reducing their effectiveness.
What I am seeing is the external part of the rocker arm shaft on the left side of the cylinder head cover. It is almost as if the rocker arm is not getting oiled properly and has is sticky to the shaft. Bike runs perfectly. Winter now so I haven't started it for 2 months, but I'll probably have to pull the cover off to inspect.
If I run the idle screw all the way in, the bike will not idle without opening the throttle blades more. I currently have it adjusted for the highest idle, and then backed off a hair. The 2.5 turns out was to try and richen it up to get rid of the big, normally it would be 2~ish turns out, which is where it is now. The weather has been horrible lately and I haven't had a chance to mess with it more.
I would say there is no other way that shaft could move back and forth other than some stiction where it slides through the rockers. Also i think that shaft runs through the aluminum and rocking back and forth would cause wear.
Correct. There are 2 bolts that are supposed to hold each shaft in place. The only way the shaft could move is if the grooves in the shaft have worn somehow.
I think you have answered your question then, it's not good news. Still, it could be shot con-rod which is a much bigger job to fix. Not sure how your riding seasons work but it could be a good time to strip it down and have a look. Better to get it sorted than have something let go big time and distribute the debris throughout the whole motor.
I have FMf headers. They are thicker then you think, I was surprised when we cut them up to make the new custom exhaust. Mine glowed a little bit the first few start ups when new. They only seemed to glow when I was looking at them. I stopped looking at them. Fixed the problem instantly. Happy new year!
"If I run the idle screw all the way in" You mean fuel mixture right? Facing down at the front of the carb? If so yes it should want to stall towards the last half turn before bottoming out. That's normal an it is having an effect, just not what you need. It still sounds like a carb problem to me, if you read way back in this thread, this seems to come up periodically. Usually it turns out there's a passage or jet in the carb that's not getting cleared of dried fuel. The XR starves a little for fuel when you whack it anyway (always needed a pumper from the factory) If the low speed circuits in the carb are screwed up at all the motor will fall on it's face coming off idle. Usually it's a clogged pilot but there's a few associated passages needed as well. (from bell to the pj chamber, from there to the fuel mixture screw location and from there straight up to a small hole in the bore of the carb. It usally coincides with allot of lean popping on decel. Sometimes they're not easy to get cleaned out.
Reading with rapt attention. This just arrived in the mail: It came with cables, but since the eddy has a proprietary throttle setup, I have had to order a factory Honda throttle off ebay. I did start the bike and revved it a little by pulling on the cable. So far, other than taking about 5 kicks to light off, it seems to run fine.
I just got my 2nd Edelbrock in the mail a couple of days ago with 3 spare metering rods 2 float jets. 1 extra ap and spare gaskets from a manager at XR's only. Plus I have a bunch of manuals for it. So if you have any questions on how to set it up properly just give me a shout on here.
…but this one’s a bit different, as far as I know... I was the chosen winner in December’s GatosBros giveaway. See that here, post #25. What an honor! I’m using these clamps to do a CRF fork conversion on my XR650R! This is the thread here at ADVRider where the concept for these clamps was announced. Its explained very well there, in my opinion, why the approach GatosBros took with the design of these clamps is the right way to go for this conversion, and I am certainly convinced. I’ve got the clamps. I’ve got forks and a wheel on the way. I still need to get the Scotts damper forward link arm and pin. I’ll have to figure out what weight springs to get for the forks, and will get them inside the forks when I rebuild the forks. I do not intend to revalve the forks unless they just don’t work well. I think that for my purposes, as a DS Adventure bike, some clicker fiddling will get them pretty close to good enough, if not completely adequate. So, once I start putting things together, I’ll start a new thread in the Thumpers forum titled "GatosBros XR650R CRF USD fork conversion", just because all the acronyms are funny.
I guess I wasn't very clear. The Edelbrock is being replaced with the new TM40. I was having issues with the Edelbrock
Does anyone know the rotational free play max spec for the countershaft? This is with the bike in gear. I didn't see this in the Honda service manual.
Finally figured out my problem, the fuel line to the carb was disintegrating and plugging the needle and seat with rubber chunks, causing it to fuel starve. Replaced the line and all is happy.
I'd settle for "how much play you have in gear". I'm a bit over 1 tooth distance of movement when the bike is in 1st. Anyone have a comparison for me? Thanks in advance.
