the DR650 thread

I'm assuming you're using your stock 17" DID rim that comes with the DR650? Have you had any experience running a TKC80 or T63 knobby?
How about 50/50 tires like Mefo's or other Euro tires? Are you running a tubeliss rim up front as well or only on the rear? (Woody recommends doing rear only)

I must have really screwed up my sealing job. I'll have to read that thread and see if I can salvage what I did. Thanks for the feedback and links.

with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.

I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.

Is that car GPS waterproof?

Yes, stock rims both front and rear. I had both rims checked and spokes tightened professionally before I embarked on my wheel-sealing mission.

Tubeless conversion on the front too. Yes, I've read the objections about going tubeless on a wheel without a safety bead, but I do not share these concerns: on one hand, one of the main advantages of tubeless tyres is the fact that they deflate very slowly, so the chance of the tyre suddenly losing all pressure, collapsing on the rim, and you losing control of the bike, is highly improbable; and on the other hand, how is a tube going to prevent the above scenario? In fact, this is far more likely to happen to a tubed tyre.

I did the conversion this last spring, so I've only had the chance to use the Shinko 705. But they're almost worn now, so I will be trying the Shinko 700 soon. After that I'll try the Shinko 244.

Did you shorten it yourself?? Thinking of cutting the foot of mine, shortening it by 20mm and reweld the foot back on. Or did you buy one?

I fitted a FCR to the DR and had a few issues with the throttle cable. Sorted that out and the bike runs like a dream. Fuel economy around 17km/l consistantly regardless of how much throttle I use or terrain I conquer. Only issue is that the bike is still popping when I close the throttle and the beast does not idle when cold. Any advise out there, or should I just ride and enjoy?!?!

My bike is stock height with the procycle stiffer springs front and back. One of my riding buddies bought their shortened stand and in a moment of weakness sold it to me (he was in-between DR's at the time). So i have the procycle 1.5" shortened stand and it's perfect for the stock height. I have fully loaded dirtbagz and a top box...all in all, at least 50lbs of junk in addition to my svelte 230lb ass and my stand is rock solid. Only time i worry is if i'm in soft wet dirt...then it'll sink in. I just grab a rock or branch to put under it if it looks like it's going to sink in.

When my buddy bought a new 2012 DR and lowered it using the suzuki stock lowering options, his stand was way too tall and he cut off the foot about 3" up. Once he was sure that the height was ok, i took the stock stand and cut out about 2" from the tube and welded the foot back on. I used the cut out section inside the tubes to give it some additional strength. I cut it lengthwise so that i could roll the tube small enough in diameter so that i could hammer it inside the stand. Once welded, it's probably stronger at that joint than the rest of the tube. So far, he's used it for 1000's of miles and hasn't had any trouble with it.

this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..

This is my exact situation... So no worries then. No dr action for me for a month... My wheel is on its way to warp 9

The cheaper Garmin Nuvi's are not waterproof but the 500/550 models are and they sell for about $265- and also have a built in battery good for several hours so they can be used for bicycling, walking, geocaching, etc...

Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Grrrrrr!

Same here.

I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.

It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.

In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, if at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek

Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?

This is what we were talking about:



The CO trace is nowhere near flat, varying between extremes of 2.6 (a little too lean) and 9.5% (quite a bit too rich as rich misfires usually begin in the 10-12.5% range). The CO should be in the range of 3-5%, i.e. if the CO varied between extremes of 3 and 5% throughout the trace, I would call that acceptable.

"May not be perfect" is an understatement. Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?

Regards,

Derek

Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek

This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..

If by "waterproof" you mean surviving underwater, no -- but then again, the bike as a whole won't survive that either.

A light sprinkling? Sure, no problem.

A torrential downpour? Probably not, but I wouldn't know because I do not ride in the rain.

If one is overly concerned about rain though, weatherproofing is just a zip lock bag away.

Hmm, I'll change the oil tonight and install the magnetic drain plug I just bought a few weeks ago. I suppose I should fix the screw issue on the neutral switch too, since I don't know if the previous owner ever did that.