One option - pony up and buy a full bike - then part out your old one to help pay it off. Here is one I found - Just down the street for you . . . Euro 1000 http://www.gumtree.ie/dublin/90/66285390.html
While you have the baffle out, carefully heat it (leave in a cup of boiling water a little while), then bend in the little "fingers" that grip the jet tower a little to make it grip better. After bending them into the new position, "set" them with cold water.
Thanks for the advice Luke. My bike had a tough life, it seized less than two weeks after I got it. The mechanic that stripped the top end said it must have been runing on low oil for a while. Given how bad the top end looked he estimated there could be plenty of other parts wrecked as well. So my options look like: By the time I find a replacement engine and ship it to Ireland I could be looking at over 1500. Getting all the parts alone would be well over 1500 before even considering labor. Buy another cheap XR and try and get one decent bike together (thanks for thet link Altroute, but Id be a bit suspicious of that being too good to be true there have been bogous XRs on that site before!). Final option, sell the thing for scrap (less than 500) and something in better running order (maybe something orange and 2T!). At this stage im thinking of balling out and taking the final option.
Hey Orujo, Im Wicklow based as well and was down in Aughrim on Monday getting some parts for my '96 XR600 and the @ from these lads, First Choice Bike Breakers. Noticed a 400 that looked like it was either going to be broken or needed some TLC. Front tyre off rim, headlight smashed, etc. Might be worth a goo. They look to be into their enduro machines down there.
Plan B - just stand outside any AIB or BoI and pick any money that falls out of the bail-out money bags that are going to get delivered too soon ?
does the brand / quality of the clutch / friction plates factor into this? when I say mine shifts hard, it shifts HARD. Almost feels like a gearbox issue, but I just have a feeling its the clutch. The rod that goes into the clutch is new. It was broken when I bought the bike (it was stuck) Any Do's and Don't when buying a clutch off ebay? I see a lot of different decent brands, not sure if I should stay away from any, they seem pretty cheap
I have no idea if the type of clutch matters, I've only ever used stock parts. Does the new rod turn properly in the case? Could it be that the case, spring, or bearings got damaged when the rod bent? I really have no idea, just throwing out guesses.
I took the (new to me) XR4 out this weekend on a 2 day dualsport ride here in NM. The 650R was down with a blown fork seal, I was hesitant about taking the 400 on this ride as it's pretty hard on the bikes, it did great, zero issues. I dropped in a 16t cs sprocket before the ride for the road, even with the tall gearing it handled the technical sections fine. For the most part, the little 400 hung with a KTM525 and a CR450 pretty well, it even pulled a brokedown KLR400 about 5 miles not to shabby for a 13yo bike. Here's some video's of the ride taken from the XR. Chloride Creek Monticello Box Palomas Gap
My XR440 clutch problem wasweak clutch springs. I put a washer or something under each one...was much better.....so I just bought new springs once I knew it was a spring not a plate issue. For oil I use Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic diesel oil....$17/gallon at WalMart. GOTTA use synthetic in an XR cause 275F oil temps are possible....regular oil just fries at those temps. Shell calls it "synthetic".....but technically it isn't.....explanation is too long and stupid....it's a loophole in the rules for using the word synthetic. Just use it....I've had no problems in my 1996 XR440.
The rod didn't get bent, the head on the T that engages inside the shifter was just snapped off. I moved it around, moves ok in all directions. It broke because the bike sat for 3 years and it seized, then when the guy put the bike up for sale, the clutch was stuck and someone just forced it and broke that part off. I'm surprised it doesn't experience more issues, that small little cap support what, 6 fairly stiff springs? but apparently it does ok what issues did you have with the weak springs? as far as the oil, I heard from different people that you gotta use the motorcycle oil because it has special additives for the clutch
page 9.6 of manual....service limit on clutch springs....'96 = 1.75", all else, 1.64"....1996 models had crap springs....I just bought the newer ones...mine were out of spec Use motorcycle oil because of what it DOESN'T have.....things called friction modifiers.....they stick to clutch plates....make them slippery....Rotella does not have them....BAD NEWS in diesel engines and turbochargers!!
I am running the recommended 15/150 jets, how do I alter the air/fuel ratio? I need to lean her out a little. I don't see a air screw other than the idle adjustment with the white knob. Thanks
Quick question about cush drive. Can someone explain, or point me to info about the real world down sides of dual sport riding (10-20% street) a bike without cush drive?
Fellow XR riders, I'm trying something different on my 450x and need to get rid of the Baja Designs front headlight. Very good condition. $60 Can't find a good picture but the classifieds link below will give you a picture of what it is. No major scratches or scuffs. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638366
The "fuel" screw is that brass screw pointing down at the front of the float bowl. To lean things out, screw it in(clockwise).
