Rookie wanna-be weldor starting to make some cool things!

I did, and will do!

Jim

Looks like your project is shaping up! Very nice! Sounds like yours will be a fixed height?

Nippy? The heat is in the tools. I can't tell you how many times I've heard that one on a jobsite.

I'm starting to get very particular with my work, especially when it's someone else's bags.

My TIG uniformity is improving by leaps and bounds, but still not exactly how I want it. I want the exposed weld to remain for strength. I don't want to grind down any more corners on any of my work.

The solution? I employ what I've heard a couple guys on the site call the "sick bro weave".

Using no filler, I dial back the frequency on the Dynasty for a soft outside corner blend. Then I go back over the existing weld and wash the toes just a little wider, making the bead more uniform in the process. I do this on every weld, even the ones in the back and on the bottom that most ignore. When I used to paint, customers always liked the extra attention to detail. I try to use what I learned back then to move forward with what I'm trying to do now. This should give me full strength on the welds while also being aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

I'm very happy with the outcome. Once the GS's racks are complete, it will be a whole new experience dealing with the powdercoater. I'm also waiting on lid gasket material to check that my clearances are what they need to be.

Getting there!

Nice, Moving beyond functional to TIG art form.

Wow, significant improvement over what I saw, which was already very good!

By the way, I used some of the material you gave me to do this:


Raw stock from a generous Kirk!







Going to replace this crap rack and fit this space.
Some of the WORST welds I have ever seen, but they should hold for my application.

Jim

Yep - fixed height at about 11' or so under the beam. It will just live in the shop, and if I want to take it out for a walk, I have a 12' door.

"The heat is in the tools" BAH! While some of the tools can produce a whole lot of resistive heat, unless it gets above 40, there is no reason I need to be playing in the shop.

Thanks! One day soon I'll have welds nice enough to stand on their own w/o going back over them.

Looking good, Jim!

I got to thinking - with a 6" flange, isn't that an "H" beam? Make sure your trolley will adjust that wide.

Pannier rack hoops bent out of 5/8" O.D. DOM tube.



250' roll of bulb gasket shows up for panniers.



7/16" round bar cut in 1" lengths...



...to join the hoop halves. I leave a gap the width of the tube wall for the weld bead to lie in.



After full weld-up, butt welds are ground flush with the surrounding tube.



Now then - let's figure out how to attach them to the bike. I cut some 3/4" strut and lay that across the rear rack. Now I have a reference point for measuring and alignment purposes.



One I determine the mounting points, the hoop and the strut combine to allow me to eyeball mounting options.



I like starting with the hard side first. The opposite side is usually a snap after dimensions are figured for the ex. side. Plus, I will be able to figure out the bag relief and match the right sides width for symmetry. I also need to be mindful to leave a little bit of an air gap to combat heat from the pipe.

After dinner break is over. Back to the garage to figure out some more... Until next time.

That's one of the reasons the beam could end up being the base legs. That, and I really want a longer span between the legs. So I think I will find or buy a longer I beam.

I have an idea. 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar cut to size.



More 3/16" flat bar cut down to 1" x 3" pieces.



Turn on some Michael Jackson and just beat it.





And then beat it some more.



A couple tacks on the backside to see if this will work. The main flat bar is bent to match the contour of the tail section. I'm not very familiar with the GS, but I can only guess that these ears are for factory cases. Let's use 'em!



Now I will fabricate a piece to attach this to the screw sticking out. Then I can attach the hoop to this bracket with more DOM tube.

That should work just fine. Hopefully more to see tomorrow...

Looking good Kirk. Yes, those are the factory bag mounts. Keeping the bags parallel with the seat and frame will be easy that way.

Jim

Good! I'm glad you like what you're seeing. I want to be ready to drop off everything to the powdercoater by Thursday afternoon or sooner.

Bracket with a stand-off made from 3/16" flat bar and 5/8" DOM tube...



...to go here.



5/8" DOM bent and cut...



...to tie the stand-off to the main bracket. Everything is fully welded front and back. Exterior welds and corners dressed up with a flap wheel. Now I need to duplicate this on the other side.

Still pluggin' away at the GS rack...







Notching some tube...







This side kicked my butt today! Hopefully the other side will go a little better tomorrow.

Looking good Kirk!

The right side should definitely be easier.

Jim

Thanks, Jim!

It was a little easier. Not much, though. Pics incoming...

Racks complete. I remount them after welding to make sure there are no warpage issues.





Lower mounts and hinges fabricated. Everything is QCed for the maiden voyage to the powdercoater in the morning. I also trimmed 3/8" off the bag's flange. I purposely overbent it because I wasn't sure how deep the gasket was going to be when I got started. I just sliced it off with an aluminum cutting wheel.

Welds on gasket mating surfaces are ground level with a flap wheel. This was a workout!!

I have some reading material to look at while everything is getting coated...

Awesome!

Jim