use a pick or screwdrivers as others said, and keep your other hand over the work to prevent a spring IED. the bearing really protests when pressed out.
Mine took around 2 tons of pressure to get out! Does anyone know where I can get the single roller bearing and spacer that goes into the linkage opposite the plain bearing previously being discussed? I can't really find any places that will sell me the single bearing. I think its 27x32x20 Also DO NOT buy those cheap eBay head gaskets, they suck. Mine has a tiny little bit of oil bubbling out the side. Not enough to drip but enough to just see it. :eek1 not very impressed. Doesn't burn oil though. Yet.
In the Flea Market (Parts) I have a listing for manuals I no longer need. One is for the DR250/350, if anyone is interested. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928242
Looking for a source for throttle cable on a 1990 DR350S "L/M" carb. This was the early edition with the single pull throttle. No way to bolt up the two-cable bracket so I have to stick with the single cable setup. Also, the later model cables (dual) are about 1.5" too long. Anyone know a source for the single pull throttle cable for the L/M models?
I've contacted an inmate who may have one in his garage. If he doesn't have it then I'd try to source a custom length cable from a local bicycle shop.
i'm trying to fit my new cycra fully closed hand guard. On the clutch side no problem the end bar is already open and ready to accept the hand guard... But the throttle tube is a closed end what do i do ? drill it ? Also i bought some ktm heated grip that are a bit too long can somebody tell me if i can cut them a bit ? thx !
I used the saw on a Leatherman to cut the end off mine because it was the closest saw at hand. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
Yeah well i used a 5/8 drill bit and finished the work with a dremel... but i still got 2 issues : 1- my Freaking ktm heated grip being too long and i dont know if i can cut them a bit 2- The end of the handguard brace is making contact with the front brake line holder preventing me of putting it where it should sit ..
Grips you can always cut, and handguards always take some "finesse" to get them to fit right....I ended up drilling new holes so mine (not Cycra) would mount correctly, and I had to file the handlebar portion to not contact my Acerbis tank.
I would be hesitant to cut grips with heaters built in for fear of damaging wiring. But I do have a ktm you can donate them to. I installed cheapo heaters a couple of weeks ago. They seem to be working fine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
Its getting a bit cool here, and I had a lot of crap to do around the house, but I did get out for an evening ride tonight. For years I had the DR set up primarily for trail riding, and didn't use it much at all on the street. Gearing down to 12/43, DOT knobbies, etc. This year for whatever reason I have had no time to get to the trails (its a 2 hour trailer drive to the forest I like best), but I have been out and about in the farm country around us. It's been a lot of fun....I find the DR (now geared at 15/43 and still with knobbies) perfect for country cruising at 50mph...and I look forward to gravel side roads and unmaintained sections. I am thinking of dropping the gearing even further to 15/39 just to make the cruising more relaxed, but even if I don't I sure do find just being out first thing in the morning or as the sun is setting to be a real hoot....chugging along at my own pace. Nothing new here to report - just felt good after a ride and wanted to share.
i just geared mine at 15/38 this sunday, it might be a wee bit too much, she's struggling at red light and stop but i wanted to transform it into a touring bike. I'm at 5k rpm at 60mph, and i can swap out the 15 tooth sprocket for a 14 to get close to the original 15/41. i Had to remove two links one male one female tho...
Indian summer in full force here but cools fast in the evening. I got up far enough to torment the hunters yesterday but refrained from too much as the snow was a no for solo riding. 90 miles with most on pavement and gravel/dirt. With 15/41 it's comfortable up to 60/65. At 6,500 rpm it's still smooth but sounds a bit busy. If I were trying to cover a lot of miles on pavement I'd try a little higher gearing but I have a DR650 for that. I suppose at lower altitudes and on flatter terrain the 350 could pull a little taller gear. Shouldn't there be a bit more color to this thread? A photo or two here and there?
My kickstand pretty much stands my DR straight up and down (not that bad but it feels like it). Has anyone shortened their kickstand a bit? If you have do you remember how much you took out and how do you like it? I took about a 30 mile trip on my DR today, I have only put about 75 on the bike since I got it, and am really really enjoying it. I will post up a few pictures and give everyone the rundown on my XR Acerbis tank when I do. Things have been crazy busy and I have a couple rides coming up so I can get some post worthy pictures.
My kickstand is 14 1/8" from pad to center of bolt hole. Doesn't appear to have been shortened though bike has #3 Kouba links (lowered and fork tubes slid up max in triples) with stiffer Eibach springs and leans enough to be secure. Any chance you need more preload on the shock and fork springs? Have you measured static and race sag? My DR650 always felt on the verge of tipping off the stand until I put stiffer springs in. The stock spring rate was too soft and it had too much static sag. http://www.promecha.com.au/dirtbike_setup_tuning.htm I thought I'd put the stock links back on and raise the bike but it feels fine for now. If it goes up a couple of inches I may need a longer kickstand. Enjoyed your TAT ride report. The old lady running you off gave a chuckle - been there. See you had the Wolfman E-12s on your XR. I just ordered a set today. Hope you can vouch for them. They look like a good fit for the DR350 and day trip essentials.
I was going to raise my shifter one notch on the shaft for moto boot clearance but the next position is way too high. As it is it forces me to either point toes too far down while riding or out from under shifter. Anyone using a longer shift lever or lower/farther back foot peg mounts? My bike came with a Motion Pro heavy duty shifter. I don't know if it, or the original carved the case. Since I don't have a case protector and I hate sharp edges, I beveled the inside tip of the shifter. So that made me feel like I improved something but the shifter position is the real problem. It gets held up by the boot toe after a shift, preventing the reset to allow shifting to the next gear. I'll probably try some drop plates for the foot peg mounts, which I like on the 650. Otherwise it will require mods to the shift lever.
I've got my oem shifter raised a notch but a longer shifter would be a lot better. I haven't been able to find anyone making one amd haven't resorted to fabrication yet. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
