Reviving this epic thread. I replaced the rear on my 690 Enduro yesterday for the first time with a new MT-21. As it was my first time, it took me more than 2 hours, but now I know what to do and it should be way less than that next time. I used two of the 15" Motion Pro levers, one Motion Pro Bead Buddy, and another shorter MP tire lever and the rim protectors (damn those black rims!) No one's brought up the Kaurit Tire Mounting tool or the copy made in the US, the Baja No Pinch tire tool. They look pretty good if you're going to be changing tires regularly. One of the parts of the process that confounded me was after I had gotten the bead off on both sides, I had a hard time getting the wheel out. I pushed the rim down to one side, but it still took a fair amount of effort to get both beads over one of the rims so it was able to be removed. Is there a good trick to that?
Just turn the tire/ wheel upright and push down on the tire to make it oval, then rotate the wheel 90* through the wide part of the oval and pull it out.
Do not be afraid to use some fancy tire lube or soapy water getting the old tire off, also. The levers work to spoon off the tire or one side of the tire... if you get in a pinch and need a little more help.
Gen- I found this video (1st of 3 partes) to be most useful: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg Also I carry a small spray bottle with a small amount of dishwashing liquid and alcohol that I use to clean off my glasses, visors, etc. but it also does duty as tire lube.
Thanks ramjet. I missed that one but watched a bunch of tire professionals change mx tires on YT. The thing is that enduro tires are much tougher than MX tire. I hear the D908RR is really tough as are the Motoz tires.
There's a video with Adam Riemann (noted Aussie enduro rider) where he talks about greasing tubes before installation. I don't see other videos advocating for this but the vast majority of tire changing guides are for MX riders. Does anyone else grease their tubes before installation? It makes sense to me...
I've heard of greasing/lubing up the Bib-Mousse inserts but never a tube. Baby or Talcum powder is the most used anti-friction aid I've seen.
Having always used a tire changing machine, tonite I mounted my new D606 on my 625SXC's rear wheel using this how to instead. "1) If you are using force, you are doing it wrong." Yep. Anytime things got difficult, I stopped and rethought what I was doing. It took me about an hour to do the change, but everything went perfect. Thanks Ned, your how to was like having a cool head let me know what I was doing wrong.
new rider, last time i changed tire was on a bicycle 20 yrs ago. figured i should give it a go. messed up just about every step of the way somehow. currently stuck on putting the new tire on, pretty sure it's something about "keeping the bead in the dish" seeing as i can't put in more than about half of the 2nd side. gonna try again tomorrow. i'm not too optimistic.
Make sure the tire is warm, sunshine or in the house on a heat vent or beside a radiator. Lubricant and patience, not brute force will win the day.
Bringing this back to the top for a very important question: Where are the Chaco's? Clearly mousse changes are harder than tubes!
Glad to see this thread, as whilst riding the other day I noticed the handling of the bike was getting weird and sure enough, the front tire was going down. Luckily I was only a few blocks from home and made it there, but by this time the tire was completely loosened, as in the bead broken, from the rim. No shops nearby so will have to wait to go into the nearest big city to get a tube. One thing I noticed when I aired the tire back up (just checking to see if it would, and it did...for a while), is that try as I might, I couldn't get it positioned uniformly on the rim, it was always a bit 'out of round'. I'm kind of concerned about this, for when I go to put my new tube in. Am I missing something simple? Or is it just a 'hold your mouth right' and it goes on and seats correctly?
"This is roughly akin to wrestling a greased python. Have fun. And yes, the silicone lube does stain, so dress accordingly." Man, how many times have I heard that? Peace out Kevan
No, not that kind. At least not now. I bought a used 2012 bike in march, did not get a chance to ride it till a month ago. Started a little rough cold, but started and ran fine afterwards. Went on vacation came back and tried to start it, no luck. The gas may be quite old in the tank. It does have that bad gas smell. I drained it and have tried to start it a couple times with no luck. Not even a pop or two. Any suggestions on what to do. This is my first KTM, so I am new to the fuel system and the tricks that go with it. And I don't want to screw anything up more that it already is.................. Help!!! BKWags
+1. though you might get lucky and just still have bad gas in the float bowl without it having plugged the pilot. there is a screw on the side of the carb near the bottom that you loosen to drain it (and then gas runs out of the of the hoses hanging from the carb) first thing i would try is close the petcock. loosen that screw and let all the gas drain out of the float bowl. close the screw. open the petcock and let the bowl fill with fresh gas. then try to start it. if still no go, then next step is to clean the pilot jet (which is accessed via the big hex plug on the bottom of the carb...no need to actually take the carb apart or even remove the float bowl).
Holy shit, after all these years that didn't occur to me. Thanks! s I use a rubber mallet to bang on the tire while inflating. You can also bounce it strategically. If you used some kind of lube, chances are that it will seat itself correctly quite fast. Usually though, just riding it for a little does the trick. If not, go to a gas station, let out the air and re-inflate.
I am not supposed to be able to push in the rim lock on a correctly installed wheel am I right? Just finished putting on a rear tire and wanted to know if I got that right. I am now working on the front.
