I just bought an edelbrock pumper carb for my xrr. I have a full exhuast and a hot cam. I bought it used (1000 miles on it) and put it on. At first it ran decent. Ran and rode fine but not great. It wasnt completely dialed in. Then i got off and went inside to look for tuning tips and the carb started leaking gas (hard to tell from where) so i figured it was a stuck float so i pulled the tank, carb etc and took the bottom housing off the carb. Cleaned all around the float, blew it all out then reassembled. Once I reassembled it, it didn't leak gas at first. Then i got it started. It idled half decent then I played with the screw on top (the richening/leaning adjustment) and no it will rev but revs poorly and is just running awful. So my questions are: Any idea where the leak comes from? There are two vents I think on the side, but i dont have any hoses going to them since I figured they were vents. Any tips on tuning it? Do i need a different needle since I have the cam? It says edelebrock has it set up from the factory to be fit for a full exhuast. Can I even get needles anymore? Or do i just need to play around with the settingS? Thanks in advanced. -Andrew
KTM used the E-Brocks on their '98 RXCe400/620 dual sports. The originally came as an internal vented carb w/ no accel pump. They really didn't run well in that configuration and most KTM guys replaced them with FCR's or the Mik BST, (that's wht I did). About a year after they came out EB finally offerred a external vent kit and an accel pump option you can have retro-fitted to your carb. It was about $100.00 or so. I had it done to the 36mm on my 400 and the 38mm on my 620. The 400 ran pretty well, the 620, so/so at best. I think the single needed design makes it hard to get it to run well from idle to redline. If you have the later model with the axccel pump and external vent, you have a chance to get it running reasonably well. If you are working with the old original style w/o the accel pump, you have a doorstop and it's not worth fighting with. The EB tuning manual says to turn the needle clockwise to make it richer. The accel pump screw on the bottom side of the bowl, turn it right for a more rich AP shot, or left for less fuel. Obviously you need to be sure the float is set to where it is not puking gass out the vents or overflow. I put a BST on my 620 a number of years ago and it runs great. Recently I had a throttle cable break, (have to have custom made by Motion Pro for this model year), so just since I like frustration, I put the 38mm EB on it and again, it ran OK, but not great. I have an old 36mm w/AP left over from my old 400 and I installed it on the 620 and the damn thing actually runs quite well??? Overall not quite as good as the BST but good enough that I have not even ordered the cables yet for the BST. It's almost like the 620 liked the smaller 400 carb better. Anyway, my stock needle is set at 12 clicks out from full rich and the AP screw is at 1-1/2 turns out from full rich. That jetting is for Kansas eleveation. I have three additional needles and tried a couple over the years and always went back to the stock needle as it seemed to do as good as the rest. You might be able to get it to run reasonably well, but it seems to be a crapshoot with these carbs, and there is a number of other carb options out there that are less frustrating. I have the QS tuning manual. If you PM me an e-mail, I'll scan and e-mail it to you if you want it. Good luck.
youre answer did not really answer the questions... I have the accelerator pump. After researching around some more, I found that everyone says the 19e needle and 18 clicks from rich should fit my set up. Im going to try that tonight, but I still cant figure out why its leaking fuel. Any guesses?
Is your gas cap venting? If not, thats your problem. My eddie works well, except for having to chase the idle. It seems to wonder around on the lowend. Don't break anything on it, its no longer a supported item. Maybe put some silicon grease on the rubber parts to keep them soft.
Odds are its a float or float needle and seat problem-like a little piece of grit in the float needle seat.I had a 21e needle and 15 clicks from full lean on mine but a dyno run showed a/f was rich.I got a 20e needle off of ebay and set it at 13 clicks from lean and the bike runs very well but it hasnt been back on the dyno.Eldo does not support the carb anymore with parts but I got the needle from an ebay vendor called atv galaxy and they seemed to have bought up some eldo parts.
I had Edelbrocks on an XR600, an XR628 and a WR400. In each case, particularly the XRs, big improvement in performance once they were dialed in. My son has one on his '00 650R, 19E needle and 17-20 clicks from full rich depending on temps and altitude, runs great. Unfortunately, the float needle and seat can be a problem on these carbs, probably is what's happening with yours. Unfortunately again, there is no longer support for these carbs, you have to get lucky to find parts. You might try using a Q-tip and polishing compound to clean up the needle seat, works sometimes.
Just checked, the float is working properly. Also, I have a 17e needle, should I make the change to a 19e?? Thanks for all the helpful info, Andrew