The 650 Dakar Thread

i am considering a new injector and/or updating the software of the BMS.

my question is this: is it possible to just take out the BMS unit and take it to the dealer and they can update the software with just having the unit? Or do I need to take the entire bike in? (it would be a lot easier than trying to get my bike over to greece to the service shop)

or do i have it all wrong and the software is elsewhere....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14105562&postcount=1

I too wondered about the idle speed. It sounded too high at 1500 RPM. It sounds weird, it is weird, but my friends who know the Rotax engine say that people who reduced it had to deal with all manner of problems with starving the injectors and told me in no uncertaintein terms not to fuck around with idle speed
[ ]s
Gus

177 dry weight. 193 kg curb weight (the Brits would say kerb weight). That, according to wikipedia, would be with all fluids includingf a full tank of gas
If the Dakar takes 17.3 liters of gasoline and according to wikipedia gasoline density varies from 0.71 and 0.77 take the average density and that's 13 kg. So the rest is water and brake fluid. Compared with the other dual-purpose bikes the Dakar is not at all lardy. Look at the DR's and KR's of this world. [ ]s ADC

Shhhhhhh...don't tell everyone that it isn't really all that heavy, they have to have something to use against us.

It's isn't all that heavy to pick up a few times in the dirt but it gets hard after maybe 5 times in 2 hours or when you get high sided and fook your self up badly

It is a fat bitch though

Only it is.

Those figures are wrong.

Black ?

Live a little.

Candy apple red

Why not orange while you're at it ?! :huh

Add
1 liter of fork oil = 1 kg
2,3 ltr motor oil = 2 kg
0,5 ltr coolant = 0,5 ltr
0, ?? ltr brake fluid = 0,5 kg

Dry weight would be 176 kg - ish

Replace the exhaust and handlebars and that's another 5 kg lost. Replace the dash and voila, you're in the 160s.

And the wow factor

Wow.... it's remarkable how you can do that on that big ass pig of a bike

And when the wheels are point up in loose sand or slippery mud

the only reason i want them black is so that i don't have to clean them as often

plus, black rims look great on theses bikes

Black is probably the hardest color to keep looking sharp. Looks dirty 3 minutes after cleaning. My truck is black, so I know, every little speck of dust jusr stands out

Black is ofcourse the fastest and coolest color though

If you paint your rims in rainbow, they would look white when they spin... like magic

I replaced the rim on my Yamaha hub. It was easier than I thought.
I bought a Excel rim and an aftermarket stainless spoke set (heavy)
Some tips:
Take pics before you strip the wheel.
Note the sequence of how you disassembled the wheel - some spokes must go in before others.
Get a proper spoke wrench/spanner - dont even try it without - you'll damage the nipples.
Once you've got the spokes in the rim, turn up all the nipples exactly the same amount (before they are anywhere near tight) Then turn them all a fixed number of turns untill the slack is removed. This is important to keep the rim centered on the hub.
Mount the axle in the vice, set up a dial indicator. Wheel bearings must be good/new.
Mark the rim at the weld - it will be out of true here.
First get the radial adjustment close. Measure on the shoulder of the rim.
Then adjust for runout on the side of the rim. Remember to loosen one side first before you pull up on the other. Dont tighten all the way.
Check the radial again and adjust, check the runout again. Patience! Don't be too picky.
When all is looking good, you may want to pull up all the spokes by a fixed amount, say a quarter turn. Test the tension by ear - tap the spokes with a tool. There are torque settings for spokes - needs a spoke torque wrench $$$ (I did'nt use one) Also, some nipples can be turned from the outer end.
It took an evening, the wheel looks great spinning on the road.
BTW, getting a wheel laced is quite cheap - somewhere around $50 -$75.

While you guys banter about painting your rims black....


I think I'll go riding...... across Death Valley.

herrhelmet, wish i could ride across death vally, kind of difficult to do any riding when the bike is at work and i'm messing about with a conservatory, there's something wrong right there :huh

thanks for the info rmarkr, i won't be doing anything to the dak just yet, theres the whole winter to ride through first, i'm prepared this time, fitted tkc's

there a list of stuff to do on the bike, Running the dak through british winters is starting to cause some minor corrosion issues, i want to get those stopped before they spread too far. Stuff like the tt crashbars coating coming off and the fuel filler cap starting to oxidise as well as the spoke nipples British winters doing there thing again

Going to run it through this winter then give it a well deserved spruce up, nearly 30k miles in 4 years isn't bad going


There's this to do first tho, as a comparison this has done 38k in ten years

Geez what's with some of these Beemer riders? I joined the AZ Beemers Club and soon as they found out I had an older F650GS I got snubbed. Seems they feel F650GS's have too many parts falling off of them and don't want to ride with anyboday that has one - WTF??? The club pretty much revolves around 1200GS and R1200LT riders. I guess I should have looked further into the Club before I joined, most of the member pics are of huge fat asses doing rides from restaurants to restaurants - sigh.

Show em this next time.

These bike specific clubs get way too queer about this bike or that. That's why I don't bother posting in f650.com.

Just got tired of people telling me what my bike can and cannot do. I ride with a lot of the western U.S. ADV riders and they could care less about what you ride. (Even though most of them are on orange bikes now..... )

Those pics are great (in a evil kinda way).

I know...! "One who dances with deer..." That's why I only said most....