Classic Honda Cub 50 Resto

Here's my Daelim 100cc. Honda engine and has a lot of parts in common with a honda cub.

Best thing about this is three sets of footpegs an an enormous passenger bench.

I have carried four western folk on the back. Record I have seen on one of these was eight cambodians.

I had the engine rebuilt for $50 in january, new front wheel, decals - though some bastard stole a lovely celtic bull motif I had on it.

Had it's monthly service today, oil, fuel filter and spark plugs changed.

I had a head on collision with a small truck three weeks or a month ago on this and had to change everything from the top mount forward. Cost $30

My AX, in the previous post cost $116 for a new back shock, chain slide and brake bushes







I wear this can on the moped, when I wear one, as the motocross one would look ghey:

New baby for restoration. Give me ten days . . .

And 21 hours later. . .only three hours work, but 21 hours from purchase.



My back aches.

Luckily they are very simple machines to work on. You can take one to individual components with a 9mm to 17mm spanner set, screwdriver, hammer and chisel.

I will need a wiring diagram though as, well, it was not exactly wired up properly when I bought it so I just gutted it of 25+ years of bodged wiring.

I feel a little lightheaded now as I just spent five hours removing what turned out to be six (six!!) coats of different coloured paint with thinners. Looks like it was something similar to British Racing Green originally. I'm going to spray it either that or a nice Orange.

Here's the frame (almost) at bare metal.

Been away/busy and drunk over the last week and a half.

Finally got some more of the cleaning back to bare metal done. Found a few tiny holes that need to be spotted and sanded.



Im just going to rustproof and seal up inside the chassis, get the rest of the body stripped of imperfections, prime itt up and lleave it while I work on my engine next.

Can anybody tell me how I can tell the model year from the chassis number?? I think it's a 70's model, but it could be 60's.

Interesting to see how the original design has morphed over time. What frame numbers are present?

C50-6170570 is the chassis number.

I much prefer this old body style to the new ones with the plastic tail and rectangular headlight.

wow, Ilove it. are you a member of the c70 yahoo group. its concentrated on the US honda passport but there are a few members overseas that might be very helpful, although I can see by your mechanical ability you don't need much help! The owner of the site (Mike G) Has many overseas books and might be able to help you. Are you in cambodia? Are you an american? Your english is perfect if not for sure.

I'm Irish, as it happens. But I do live in Phnom Penh, Cambodia these days.

Thanks for the tip on the C70 group. I will check it out.

My mechanical ability isn't brilliant at all, though I have motor trade experience so maybe I learnt a few tricks there that make simple jobs like this easier.

That's cool!

I knew Daelim had a partnership with Honda, but I've never seen any proof until now.

Where can I get a front "50" badge like you have. My Honda Passport has a "70 Deluxe" just like it, and I'd love to replace it with a 50 for my plateless driving :)

And that was 13 months ago.

Life got in the way.

New wife, business, bar and three more bikes. Plus a house move.

The bare metal got pitted with rust as it languished in the corner

But, I have some free time again and am back on this project.

Here's how it looked a few weeks ago before I re-started.



Update coming soon.

Anybody able to help with putting an age on it? I thought the front badge may help, but no.

So, I went out and bought a sled load of 320 wet/dry paper and after some sore fingers brought things to this:



Yup, that's my bed the frame's resting upon. My wife is very forgiving
The blemish in front of the rear indicator mount is where I had just JB welded a 2mm hole but not sanded back the JB yet.

Sanded:



Sanding back a spot weld:



Head bearings were worse for wear, to say the least:



I then looked under her skirt:





That's going to require copious application of elbow grease.

The rear fender has been repaired in the past. Welds look decent enough.



When I had at cleaning up the tail it turned out to be better than at first glance. I didn't wash the bike before the teardown, so there was a good bit of mud that came right off when I wirebrushed it and that, plus half an hour of sanding made it pretty clean.



In the next pic you can see the spot inside the body where water got in and caused the pinhole I JB welded earlier. I opened it up, cleaned it out, packed it with grease and sealed it up. Not the best way, but should hold it for now.



Tomorrow I will look after the front section of the underbelly and inside the frame where the tank will sit. Then underseal the rear fender to prevent future corrosion.

Forks are not beautiful



The cantilever assembly has to come out because, after all this time, the springs are totally knackered.



The left of the picture above shows where the nut and stud that secure the spring/cantilever assembly are. Both the stud and nut are massively corroded and it's too tight for a saw, plus a hammer and chisel would be too brutal - so I'm just gonna have to try and shear them off with torque.

Slow going sanding all the layers off the metal dash assembly. Why I didn't do this when I was doing all the other metal paint stripping, I don't know. The most recent layer of paint is horrendous. It's almost like household emulsion and takes forever to sand off.






The old contrils for the turn signals and lights had their toggle switches broken off ages ago, so the loom was cut and small, red, flick switches were used instead. One for lights, one for ignition and a horn button left working.

I'm going to buy a new loom from a Chinese company in one of the markets here. Hopefully under $20.

Methinks it's gonna be fun when I open the engine

Didn't get too much done today as I had to do some stuff with the wife and son in the morning & then went to look at some old steam engines and landmine clearance machines.

1939 Steamer.



Mine clearance Hitachi and Komatsu with seriously armoured cabs:

I had a couple of hours before opening the bar so I finished sanding the swingarm and primed it up.

Before:



After:

Then I undersealed beneath the rear fender of the frame. Some people paint first and then underseal. I do the opposite, if it's good enough for VW to do it that way, so will I.