Unifilter

Have you seen the MW-R filter? http://www.racingairfilters.eu/data/media/MC-050-05 KTM LC8 01.jpg

We have bought one of these for Maya as well as the prefilter, we get it in about 3 weeks time in Guatemala so I can't say much more about it at this stage, they seem to have a good rep.

Let ya know when we get it if you are interested.

Cheers Andi

I've seen that MW-R filter, yeah. For me it's far too thin and uses a single stage of very course foam. Too course to function properly in my opinion. I question it's ability to seal properly properly too. Not the way I want to go. I want a much thicker dual stage foam filter like the Uni. Seals well too. I just ordered the Uni! Now we'll see how long it takes to get from Australia to MN, USA.

Cooli cool, yeah hopefully the MW-R will be ok, let ya know in time anyway, we will also be running the pre filter too so I would like to think we have it covered.

For touring and general riding the uni is a good looking filter,, BUT if your chasing performance not having clearance around the velocity stacks is going to cost you a bit. You typically need the width of the horn flange clearance around the stack to maximize the charging affect. Trimming them etc probably wont hurt the average riders experience at all but on a motard type race situation or a road course,, it will cost a tenth or so.. There is definitely some voodoo around air flow that comes into play with stacks.

So I'd be not so worried on a ADV,, or even a SE,, but SM? no way I'd go with the Rottweiler for that environment.

Dave

That is my take too Dave, if the MW-R keeps the air clean and we can wash it on the run that is all I want from it, it will be more free flowing than factory but then we are adding the pre filter which will again slightly restrict it so plus or minus we will probably be the same, we may do the doors one day depending on how it all works out.

For us it is the ease of cleaning on the road and preservation of milage for those longer distances between fuel stops, we have 37 L on board when full but when we hit the soft stuff we will need it.

Good points guys. I'll let you know and take some pics of the Uni as well. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the MW-R.

Hey Griz, I have now done over 1000k's with the uni and can say that I am very happy with it, on my last ride in very dusty conditions it did its job!!
I am not chasing HP gains as the 990 IMO has enough just clean air.
The bike runs as before and fuel consumption has not changed.
Unifilter Aus has also just made a panel filter for the 990, I will post up some pics when I have them later this week.

Am I correct in believing you are talking about using the single stage Uni pre-cleaner, vs the 2-stage one in combo with the new Unifilter?

elron

Thanks for the report! I look forward to receiving mine.

Some pic's of the panel filter that Unifilter Aus have made for the 990.
Sorry about the quality, pictures taken from phone.
These will not be ready for sale for 4 to 6 weeks.

I just received my Unifilter Australia NU 1426 ST Kit!!! :



I also received the pre-oiled NU 1421 2-stage prefilter kit:



It's got an inner stage that's attached to the rubber base AND and outer removable stage:



At $84 for the NU 1426 ST kit and $35 for the NU 1421 prefilter kit it's priced WAY better than the $300 Rottweiler thing, installs easier, doesn't need the SAS system removed, and doesn't require remapping the FI system. Can stress these points enough. Also, again, I wanted an oiled foam filter with great filtration that's easy to install and maintain. I'm not interested in performance gains and fiddly gadgets and install. The bike is powerful enough the way it is in my opinion. Cheers fellas. I'll take pics of the install.

With 'glove box' off, breather hoses diconnected, o2 sensor disconnected, and airbox lid off, install the rubber trumpet seals that come with the kit:





Then install trumpets on top of the trumpet seals:



Then install the rubber airbox lid seal that comes with the kit:



Then I discovered these random unused plugs from right behind the steering column. My bike is a 2012 990 Adv R. maybe someone can chime in here and tell me what they are. I'm assuming they are for the ABS that doesn't exist on the R model. If you take the cable and extend it toward the back of the bike it reaches back to right above the rear shock:







From here install the oiled primary filter onto the trumpets, using the reusable zip-ties to secure it. You can also see the pre-filter installed in the background. Since the pre-filter has been around for quite some time now I didn't think it'd be necessary to walk through that install:



Now install the outer/secondary filter, making sure to secure the velcro on the bottom:



Then put the airbox lid on and re-attach the breather hoses and o2 sensor plug. Also make sure and attach the hose the bridges the two fuel tanks. Install the 'glove box' again. Put the seat on and your good to go:






PS One thing I noticed is that in order to get the the air box lid on you have to push it down and squish the filter quite a bit. I'm hoping this doesn't effect the filter performance. This filter sits pretty tall on the trumpets. Too tall I think. The filter shouldn't have to be squished in order to seat the airbox lid. Uni? Can you chime in on this? Maybe that's why they're now developing a panel style too?

I don't know. You say you wanted something less fiddly that the Rottweiler. I don't know if that set up is or not. A foam filter possibly squished inside the stock airbox plus an intake filter too. The Rottweiler set up with the UNI outer filter is very user friendly. Thanks for the pictures.

Not having to remove the SAS, not having to remove the airbox completely, and not having to remap the FI makes the Uni less fiddly. I'm not necessarily talking about fiddliness after the install as much much as I am talking about the install fiddliness. Also, I just found out that though it seems the Uni filter gets squished a bit when you install the lid, it's not detrimental to the function. Bonus. Having to do the SAS removal, airbox removal, and FI remap X's out the Rottweiler for me. I'm sure it does for certain others too. Besides, I like the idea of not only keeping the airbox intact but also that Uni provides a seal for the lid. This water seals the airbox. Without the airbox the Rottweiler is open to water and dust.

Looks like the Griz has made a good case for the uni. I especially like the idea of keeping the filter box with a pre-filter.

I guess I don't understand why this filter change wouldn't require a remap/jetting change (Are these available for the 950? I probably read and then forgot). I know just the prefilter with the stock air filter was enough to make the 950 need new jets.

I for one would like a larger prefilter, something that would keep me from buying new paper filters but not restrict the air flow, because I am unabashedly interested in maintaining or increasing horsepower.

The Uni does not require remapping of the FI system for a number of reasons. Mainly due to the fact that thickness and density of the Uni foam matches the airflow characteristics of the stock paper filter. It also keeps the airbox intact. The airbox effects airflow characteristics well. The stock FI system map is based upon both the airbox being present and the flow characteristics of the stock paper filter. Again, the Uni emulates the flow characteristics of the stock paper filter and keeps the airbox intact. Therefore the FI system sees no change. No adjustment necessary.

The Rottweiler, however, requires remapping because, firstly, the airbox is completely removed. The removal of the airbox increases flow slightly. Secondly, the Rottweiler foam is a bit thinner and has less density, also increasing flow. These two factors increase flow enough to require the remap. There's only one way to increase power: increase flow. It's as simple as that. The Rottweiler increases flow. The Uni does not.

I have not heard of this. Uni says it doesn't require rejetting: http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/media/NU-1415.pdf

The Uni prefilter will do what you're looking for. Power will not increase but will remain the same. A rejet should not be necessary.


I can tell you that my 990 runs great with both the Uni prefilter and the Uni main filter.

I have a Uni prefilter sitting on the shelf in my garage that says you're wrong. I put 35,000 miles on my bike with that filter on, and recently decided to take it off, rejet for the stock airbox with no snorkel, and enjoy the extra power. If you've got a bunch of experience or some dyno sheets to back up your position, I'd really like to see it.

I don't own a 950 I own a 990. I simply stated that Uni says the prefilter 'will not adversely effect intake airflow'. This is stated in the link to the Uni install manual for the prefilter I provided in the post above. With 30 years of experience I'd say Uni has a liiiiittle bit of experience with air filters.

My experience is that the 990 has zero problems with BOTH the Uni prefilter and the Uni main filter.

I do wonder if you're feeling a bit of the 'placebo' effect of removing the prefilter. I urge you to switch back and forth once or twice and post back. I'm not trying to be asshole. I'm just having a hard time believing that the prefilter changes things enough on the carb'd 950 to be noticeable enough to be that passionate about.

On a side note, Uni does not make the NU 1426 ST main filter for the 950... yet. 990 only.

Once they have been out a bit longer I'm sure somebody will do a A vs B vs C vs D dyno runoff.

A quick check would be a carb sync gauge setup on the bike and simply rev it to the same RPM with and without the pre filter.. You should see similar readings at idle, 2500 and 3500. With the 990,, ON the 950, the slight change in intake air configuration, may affect the CV action..

Just a thought..

Dave