Rookie wanna-be weldor starting to make some cool things!

Thank you!

Hmmm... didn't think about that! Live and learn!

My top case (when I make it) will probably just hold my duffel bag I use as a lunch box for work. In that scenario, I don't need to detach the top case.

But, since I used 3/8" nuts on the underside, I could probably do a quick detach like you described with 1/4" hardware, and it will pass right through the 3/8" nut. I still have room on the bottom for a wingnut.

The only downside I could see to a quick detach system with wingnuts is that your case is unsecured. Anyone can unbolt it and carry it off. Not likely to happen, but there are some real scumbags out there.

Top rack painted and reinstalled. New rear signals installed. I had to tweak the rear support a bit, so the paint on it is still drying.



Photos taken on an angle so I don't get my chops busted for something being slightly off. Just kidding, roadranger! Ha Ha!

I made the top rack so that it has a grab bar sticking out the rear when a future top case is installed. That will come in handy, I'm sure. If I like it, I'll probably do something similar on the KLR later on.



I'm having a pretty good time making things. I was just thinking today that I have probably broken even on the welder purchase. I was mentally adding things up that I've made, and it's probably pretty close to what I have in the welder, even considering material costs. Selling the V-Strom now doesn't seem like such a bad idea. It's what allowed me to move in this direction, and I'm pretty happy about that.

I have less than $120 in the KLR luggage, and I have right around $50 in the DR setup including the top rack.



I decided to go through the fender with the new signals. I also installed a rubber grommet to keep from chafing the wires over time. I soldered and used heat shrink tubing to extend and attach the factory bullet connectors to the new signal wires.

So there you have it. Two full sets for less than one set of bags. The mistakes I made on the first set were not repeated on the second set, and the mistakes I made on this set won't be repeated on the third set.

Plus, I've used the KLR for less than 1,000 miles with the original set. I want to put some miles on both sets to see what does and doesn't work. Sometimes when something gets put to use, it's a bit different that what you originally thought it should be like.

Yeah, my topbox has the advantage of being plug ugly and very cheap to replace if need be. Come to think of it, so do my bikes! I know anything's possible but someone would have to be pretty desperate. At this point I don't have any locking mechanism on the box anyway so someone making off with the whole box really isn't a concern. If I wanted to secure the box to the rack it would be fairly simple to rig up a cable and padlock system that would keep the hitch pins from being pulled.

migged the frame from 1.5" 3/16" wall tubing.

The ram is an 8 ton harbor freight air/hydraulic

Return springs are home depot

bolts are either 3/4" or 5/8" grade 8 from fastenall

I might have $125 in the setup.

and i haven't bent one tube yet

Beautiful stuff man! I am inpressed and motivated!

I'll get back to you on a time to come over, looks better on weekends, but every other Friday is good too!

Jim

Looks good to me! To buy everything to go full hydraulic on the Model 32 is about $1,500. I'll probably go the $125 route myself when the time comes!

Nice job!

Thanks, Jim!

Sounds good. Shoot me a pm when you're ready to line something up. I work 4 on and 4 off, so it will eventually line up with your schedule.

- Kirk

The 8 ton ram works as advertised but is pretty slow and you need to repin once to get 90 degrees. You also need a decent compressor to keep up.

The electric/hydraulics are sweet/fast/expensive.

Since I might bend a couple tubes a year I went for slow/ghetto/cheap

You can build a hydro setup on the cheap if you like to scrounge. Use a power steering pump for the hydro pump with an electric motor. You only need a std log splitter valve and hyd cylinder.

even if you buy a power pack $350, valve $80, cyl $150 and hoses $75 it's not that bad price wise.

Make a rack or something for the elite.

Ha Ha! Will do!

It has a rack on the back, but I've seen period correct side crash bars that probably aren't available anymore. That may be something to fab.

Once I hear the beast actually run, I won't be able to resist doing something to it!

Maybe shoehorn a Banshee motor in it and add wheelie bars?

found a old pic of my latest gas tank, holds 7.2 gallons on my xr650l. i used the stock steel tank so i had the gas lid and tunnel done already then welded sheetmetal to form the rest.

pic of the tank on the bike

heres a pic of the tank i made before the last one, it was 6.2 gallons and a little more sporty looking.

heres one more, i took the stock 2.8 gallon tank and welded mounts to fit crf450r shrouds to it.

As long as i get to take it for a spin!

kubiak, your work is friggin' NIIIICE!!!!!

It's funny you should post the extended tanks...I was going to pm you and ask you if you'd be interested in doing a "how-to" on modifying the tank.

What gauge material did you use? Is 18 sufficient?

I've never extended a tank, but I want to try on the DR. It's bashed in on the left side anyway, so it's not like I can do much worse to it. (other than completely ruin it )

I have sealed and painted many, many tanks, just never welded one before. Maybe with your expertise, you can help me with the confidence needed to start hacking on a perfectly useable fuel tank.

I actually stumbled across a clip one night on youtube of a guy on a vintage scoot with a Banshee motor installed. Done nicely, too! I'll see if I can find it...

Talk about a fun ride!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqF6J5t_5KQ

^ Above link to a Lambretta with a 450cc. Banshee race motor installed. Oh yeah. I'd ride that for sure!

You need to change this thread title from "Rookie wanna-be welder starting to make some cool things" to something like:

Newbie Welder IS Making Some Cool Things!