Trailrider383, I appreciate your input. Yes to the question of complete fuel replacement...Yes to the question of fuel in the bowl...No to question of using starting fluid (we should have)...and didn't know enough at the time to check and adjust the float level (the fuel valve looked good and I assume it was sealing properly). The new Mikuni TM 40 Pumper carb I'm returning to Zacatecas with on the 8th will address all carb issues. Wish me luck! Jim
Send me a ticket to Mexico and I'll fix it for you. I love a challenge. And it was 4 degrees at my house this morning. Good luck, keep us updated.
Another thing to check, the pickup (usually a hall effect sensor) that sends the "Go bang now" signal to the ignition module. I've had those come loose or get covered with crap - which causes all sorts of interesting problems. Luck Pete
Pete, I've heard the pickup also referred to as the pulse coil. Either way, this is part of the stator, isn't it? In which case, I have it covered. Jim
Did you ever change the spark plug. I remember on my 2 stroke bikes when the plug went bad it would start and idle but die when the throttle was opened. Put a new plug in and it would run like a champ. I always thought that was weird to start and idle fine but die with added throttle. Stepping back and looking at the overall situation. You said it wasn't sudden, started acting up. Being in Mexico I would think bad fuel or dirty fuel clogging the carb or tank. Did you ever try to start it with the fuel cap off or opened. A clogged gas cap vent can cause fuel starvation. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/613782-dr650-faq/ http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Intake http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/50...or-kit-from-procyclecom-anygood/#entry4680645 http://my2wheels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6456 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715659 http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Potential_problems_to_be_aware_of http://drriders.com/topic6707.html
Of all things mentioned ... the pick-up coil goes to the top of my list. If you read the 11 million post BIG DR650 thread ... you'll see that over time there have been several failed pick-up coils (also called "ignitor or Pulse coil). Not many, but a few. One was on Big Al's bike which failed somewhere in Cent. America. The local mechanics borrowed a PU coil from a car and fit it in .... IT WORKED! You're correct .. The PU Coil is part of the Stator. It's rare but there have been a few over the years. I don't believe the carb is the issue. (unless it's been buggered up by someone trying to "fix" it! ) We've never seen a Main coil go bad on a DR650. There have been a few Stators gone bad but most times it's misdiagnosed and turns out to only be the Pick-up coil. One or two bad CDI boxes too ... but once again ... very rare. On the road I carry a spare Stator. Best of luck !
Sorta, note the red circle. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19544136&postcount=69046 ADV8 posted this pic earlier, from a Suzuki TL1000, NOT a DR.
Thanks for your suggestions. We switched out the fuel, cleaned the petcock filters, and installed new plugs. And we confirmed that the tank was venting. But again, it didn't start.
Dave, My three flights down were without a glitch...couldn't have been better. I'm unpacked and have my kit ready to meet the tech at 9am. It's the moment of truth...I'll report back later in the day! Jim
You only need 4 things for an engine to run; compression, fuel, ignition and timing. So, if you've got compression and your plug jumps a nice spark gap and your timing marks all line up and valves seem to open/shut in step with a 4 cycle ... then ?
Although my bike still isn't running, the problem is identified. To save me the work of explaining things in two places, please check out my pics and explanation on my RR...http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20439568#post20439568 Again, my thanks go out to all of you for your help and support!
Too bad you didn't mention the fact you'd swapped out the stock Stator early on. You could have saved A LOT of time and money. Any owner installed Mod always goes TOP OF THE LIST for where the problem started. But I also blame the Mexican techs for not finding this in the first hour of work. Hate to say it ... but I feel they strung you along ... WAKE UP! This sort of fault is a novice mechanic diagnostics 101 exercise. I know your guys know more than they are letting on. Oh well, live and learn! BtW, aftermarket Stators are famous for failure. Many many KLR guys have gone with aftermarket stators to gain more output. Many end in failures. It's all over the KLR boards, has been for years. If you feel you need more elec. output you should have come over to the BIG DR650 thread. Lots of guys there with plenty of helpful tips on how to set up your bike to get by with the DR's measly 200 Watt output. Many good mods and upgrades to get by and still have power for elec. jackets, grips and running GPS and such. No problemo. Hope you can still enjoy the rest of your trip! I'll check out your report ... and please ... from now on ask on the BIG DR thread if you have questions. A wealth of knowledge and even some direct support from Pros over there.
On our SV portal site there have been numerous occasions where the magnets in the rotor have came loose and pretty much given the same issues you had. Glad you figured it out. Life goes on. Keep on ridin'...
So my issue isn't an exception. Other than what's in the manual, are there any instructions out there for a secure installation? Jim
Your rotor is designed differently from the SV's. Ours does NOT have the metal ring on the inside. Some people have used JB weld to epoxy them back into place.
