Magura hydraulic clutch merged threadfest...

I wanna bleed the clutch on my early '04. What's this "mineral oil" note that is on the resevoir? What's the best oil to use?

Anyone know where DieselRyan ended up? Colorado? I believe this machine was his first...

I know there is another thread on this but it went on and on... My O ring went south in Enis Montana ,small town on the Madison river,didn't catch many fish though . I had Motorex min. oil at home 150mi. away , went to an auto parts store that had none but had heard of it. A local mechanic overheard us and went back to his shop and returned with a quart of (NewHoland brake oil) he had used it on a tractor hyd. clutch #1QM6C34A . The caution notice on the bottle says 1)Distillates(petroleum)solvent dewaxed heavy paraffinic 2)Phenol, dimethyl-phosphate(3:1) and a caution not to use in brake systems designed for glycol based fluids . Any how it worked , seemed to mix well with the Motorex min. oil looks , feels the same . Any chemists out there . Prob. cheaper than Motorex . I found a Harley O ring that has been working whal my KTM ring is being ordered. #600 32 06500 . I was glad to bleed out the grey goo that came out of that hydraulic system.!! On and on.... K.B.

Sorry for the rehash 950 TA, what's the symptoms of the O ring going South? Right now, as I start off in 1st gear on cold machine, it sounds like I've got 2 chipmunks chasing each other around my front sprocket as I engage the clutch. I know I got a deal on this machine but who would throw in TWO chipmunks AS WELL!?!! TIA

You loose any clutch control ,won't disengage . Stalls when droped in gear ,unless moving . Oil on kickstand . Gotta go . K.B.

This sounds like typical clutch chatter. If it REALLY bothers you, pull the clutch plates and look for bluing, glazing and sniff for a burned smell. In fact if you open the clutch cover and smell something kinda burnt you've probably done what I've described, glazing is NOT always accompanied by the smell, however.

I don't really think it's a problem.... lots of clutches do this.

I see it's an 04...
How many miles?
Lots of clutch slipping off road?
A lot of clutched wheelies?

Pre 05 had a clutch engagement rod that was too short... many have replaced with favorable results.
If you abuse the clutch it'll go south in a couple thousand miles... you have to REALLY abuse it, however. I've had sportbike clutches last 20000 miles.

I'm almost sure you don't have a bad O ring in your slave cylinder....

The mineral oil can be had at any mc shop as far as I've seen.

Good luck.

You can also get mineral oil in any drugstore; that`s where I got mine on a sunday night in a remote up north village a few weeks ago.
Btw, both the light or heavy oil offered in drugstores will do fine.

Thanks K2, she has just under 6k miles, no slipping YET. However, when actually putting the trans. into first gear the engagement is crunchy, but does go in. Then, disengage clutch to start rolling and I get the chipmunks singing X-mas carols. These 2 symptoms only happen when bike is cold.

Once going and warmed up, there are no more dificulties or symptoms. I have a New Holland dealership just down the road. I'll flush Magura with fresh New Holland hydr. brake fluid and see what's up. This was an occassional problem on my ST4s and all that was ever needed was a flush/bleed every 2kmiles or so, and eventually the problem went away. However, the Ducs still used DOT 4, at least in the '02s anyway.

No slipping yet as I'm too unfamiliar with machine to be really wailing on it. Is there a Barnett kit out there yet? I'll pull the clutch cover for inspecetion as well. Thanks again...

TE

OK, bled out the clutch fluid/mineral oil with MityVac, got about 30ml gray spoodge, then the clean stuff came through. Dang, we're talkin spoodge here. The New Holland parts guy recommended the upgraded stuff- part #86541699DS, $8.65 a qt. that according to him, is used in Europe's cars, Benz etc, for clutches and brakes. Mineral based, and makes one hell of a difference. He said the old stuff was actually made of whale oil!? No joke. A few things; a. don't touch the clutch lever/brake lever when bleeding with Mity Vac. b. remove rubber boot that covers lever/master cylinder junction and rinse in water. The boot just slides off the end of the lever. c. retighten the master cylinder cover screws after test ride. I thought they were tight but saw bubbles coming out during test ride? Oh well, she's good to go again. (mighty vac's worth it's weight in platinum)

"Magura Blood" is 10W mineral oil. The magura site recommends *not* using drugstore mineral oil.

Anything will work in a pinch, water, piss, whatever, but if you put something caustic in there (like brake fluid) you may end up ruining the seals if you don't get it out soon.

It's a bunch easier to find Magura Blood in Bicycle stores tghan motorcycle stores, btw.

They don`t recommend drugstore mineral oil because it`s more sensible to heat than the official stuff but it won`t cause damage to the system & it does work fine; I`ve done over 6000km with the drugstore variety without a glitch.

Here's what magura says:

My Norwegian Cod Liver oil is too expensive to put in there. None of the bicycle or motorcycle shops in my town had Magura Blood, and my Katoom dealership is 150 miles away round trip. Here's the strange part; I live in the city which hosts Parts Unlimited's world HQ!? This machine has less than 1500 miles on it from when I bought it as a used machine, from a KTM dealer. Wouldn't they have flushed or at least bled the brake and clutch systems before selling it? I trust that they did and used fresh Magura Blood that is spoodged beyond use at less than 1500 miles. I'll stick with the New Holland stuff, same product according to the New Holland dudes, at 1/10th the cost. I completely flushed the old stuff, in with the new and it makes a HUGE difference. Mineral Oil based brake and clutch fluid from New Holland. So far so good. We'll see...

I wouldn`t use the drugstore variety oil in a brake system but, for the clutch system, that`s a whole different story!

Citroen active suspension fluid is an option as well, saved KTIm's butt in France.

Eriksson Said
"However, when actually putting the trans. into first gear the engagement is crunchy, but does go in."

Best to push it into gear quick. A slow gentile push makes it worse!

Eeiksson Said
"Then, disengage clutch to start rolling and I get the chipmunks singing X-mas carols. These 2 symptoms only happen when bike is cold."

This sounds to me like induction noise. Air being sucked into the engine.

There is another noise..... chain chatter..... This happens when you clean all the grease of the swing arm chain guards.

Induction noise? I could sworn theys was little chipmunks :eek1


That chain system of measuring 18 pins worth is funky too. I like it...

How's it down under there K2M?

Yes, but only once we had managed to get the lady to sell it to us

Anyone know why silicon brake fluid isn't used in the brakes and cluch res. ?

In my experience the following approach makes for smooth shifts from neutral to first:

1. Pull clutch lever all the way in.
2. Downshift as soon as you complete #1. Don't start before the lever reaches the bar, and don't wait after it reaches the bar.

It eats the O-rings in the system. I was in the process of restoring a Super Sun Beetle, including the brake system. Put some Mercedes Benz brake fluid in it, which is categorized as Super 5+, if I remember right. It ate up all the internals and I had to start over. I had mistakenly figured German tech=German tech but forgot the 25 year gap. Oh well, that was the explanation I was given as the Super 5+ contains silicone.