What you did on or with your D/S-Adv bike today

omgwtfbbq!

A couple of months ago whilst replacing front brake pads, one of the caliper bolts galled half way up the threads. So being the questionably smart feller that I am, I figured replacing all of them just might be a good idea. So I just did.

Bobby Ginger approves of this post. Bought better replacements so hopefully will not be an issue in the future.

And I was smart enough to use anti - seize lube this time.

I put a drop of blue loc-tite on those. Clean all of the old stuff off next time, a wire brush will take off the old loc-tite easily. Anti-sieze is not wise, as you don't want those backing out.

I'll tell you what I did today, I beat the living shit out of a brand new wheel bearing for the better part of an hour thanks to those bastards at "Moose Racing"!!! You cheap bastards couldn't have included a 2 cent post it note in your bearing kit telling us KTM owners that the fucking C-clip doesn't have to go back into the race!!! I haven't wanted to kill someone this bad since I left Afganistan. I hate you Moose Racing!!!

Clark 4 gallon tank and remote trip meter reset button.



Heavy but its tuff.
Not a problem for the riding I prefer.

Somehow rubbed/pinched a wire under tank on backbone dinking around with the clearance needed for the FCR39 pumper carb choke button.
Created a intermittent motor shutdown that was hard (for me) to pinpoint.

Had to call on the BIG GUN and ask for Red's troubleshooting help.
Thank you Red!



Zukie for some reason made resetting the tripmeter complex.
This mod made it easy again:
http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/remote-trip-meter-switch-drz-400.html

Patience grasshoppa... you just needed a bigger hammer.

Not mine but mine to rebuild. :eek1 Yamy 1300.

The old thicker bearing width trick. I wonder if they take into consideration the spacer width although it would only affect the outer spacers? It is probably just 1 millimeter though.

I could see the engineers plain as day sitting back laughing having a few beers when they put that kit together! Some things really make me scratch my head.

Yanked a few bearings out of my linkage. Added a blind bearing puller and a torch to my tool box.

PSA: CHECK YOUR BEARINGS
I went through mine last summer and I expected one to be bad. I had two that were frozen and one on the way out :eek1

I sawr'd a few bikes in my gee-rage that need to be warshed and prepped for a ride in a few days.

No action was taken as the owner... an f'n chucklehead... waits until the last minute to get chit done before a ride.

Checked valves on my 2015 EXC. With 16hrs, they are good.

Changed the oil. Second oil change. A few small flakes of metal in the screens. Fine metal sludge on magnetic drain plug.

Changed fuel screen. Old one was clean.


Really want to get new springs, because I'm 60lbs more than what the stock springs are rated for.
Can't wait to get muffler end cap and TPS calibration took.

The TPS adjustment makes a big difference, my bike pulls so hard now coming out of corners. I adjusted mine to .64 from .58. It's almost difficult to hold on to now grabbing a handful of throttle

Screw the rain, screw the reports of deep water in Richloam! did 180 miles in the rain Saturday...

.64 to .68 is the magic range for my 2012 5Hunny. It will also change with time so check it every once in a while... especially if you notice a little decell pop.

Get one guy in the group to spring for the quick check plug and then pass it around. Only takes a few seconds and well worth the effort.

Remember it does change over time...at least mine did...

The rig looks good but I think you are susposed to try and ride in the left wheel track.

i have read much BS on the web about TPS adjustment for many years. Its just a reference for the computer, you won't get more power by adjusting the voltage higher or lower. You want it in the middle of the specified range, with engine hot and throttle closed. This way, with normal fluctuations in temp and amp draw, the computer still has a baseline that is within its designed range. The computers are constantly compensating for this stuff, so changing the voltage by .04 volts will result in no change at all. Just a different baseline voltage the computer sees as closed throttle.

Idle issues, or having removed it are the only reasons to adjust the TPS. Its not a performance mod, and it is not adjusting your "tune", its all in your head.

So changing the TPS on my R12GSA won't get me any closer to staying with an S100RR? Damn, I had such hopes.