I was not trying to dis anyone, I was just saying if I can do it with good results, anybody else can, but 375 is a pretty good price.
I am fortunate enough to do a lot of dual sport riding with many buddies in Southwest Utah. Here is what I think: For me my DR350SE is a great DS bike. It does need an upgraded suspension (for me just adding rear and front stiffer springs was enough). When I get home I will get the side stand spring replaced as per advice given here. Thanks. The DR350 does not get a lot of respect but I am happy with mine. It is such a low maintenance bike and has all the power I need or can handle. Enjoy your DR350's. I do mine. Simba
+1 DR350 with backed out shift drum bolt. First I noticed neutral was hard to find. Then some "extra neutrals" started to show up... then it would try to pop out of top gear under load. I bought the thrust washers and a spare gasket, then took it apart. The bolt was very backed out, rubbing on the clutch basket gear, but not sheared yet. Threads are boogered, too. I'm ordering a new bolt. For reference PIN,SHIFT CAM D 25312-38A00 $4.31
I'll check them out. Were they pretty obviously worn on yours? The only parts I plan to change for now are the thrust washers, thrust bearing, and shift drum bolt.
The clutch spacer is a wear item as well, though on my bike it was still within spec when I changed it out. The spacer is what sits between the thrust washers. The space created by the spacer is what allows the clutch baskets to spin free.
I should measure mine. It "looks fine" though. What spec did you use? Suzuki shop manual? I looked but haven't seen the spec for it yet. Already placed the order for the other parts, but may add that if out of spec (~$10)
Way too close. Should have stopped riding as soon as I noticed anything funny. Or SHOULD have just taken it apart and added loctite when I first read of this issue. Bullet dodged, as long as the shift drum threads are OK 1991 DR350S with about 21k on it.
IMO those Shinkos are pretty much road tires. If you really plan on dirt riding just get a set of full knobbies. DOT knobbies. don't bother with 50/50's or what ever. Knobbies ride fine on the road. As far as which tires, that is up to you. Kindda like asking what kind of oil. Ask 10 people get 5 answers. I would stick to the stock size or close. Don't try to fit some mega huge tire in the rear. If the chain is not stretched out I would just ride it. It won't last as long if the o-rings are toast, but it will ride fine. Replace it when it is stretched out.
Hey all, I'm just getting around to playing with my new to me 1994 DR350SE. I just removed the practically new Kouba +3 links for OEM as it was just too short for my tastes. What is an ideal sag number front and rear for these bikes if I'm riding it 60/40 street/dirt? Any interest in a set of almost new Kouba links too?
Front and rear sag should be about 1/3 of available travel measured from topped out to you sitting on bike with gear on and tank full. Say 90-100mm?
Hey, did you do this on a DR350? I just got the thermometer (Taylor 9842 Commercial), and it's not long enough to reach the full line on the dipstick. I'm a little worried about overfilling. Initially I didn't think it'd be an issue, since I assumed the frame was just a reservoir, and the oil level just needed to be high enough to get over the hump. Then I asked the Google, and was told that it could be an issue. The factory manual doesn't seen to care, though. How much wiggle room is there, for oil level?
Any reason for a gauge vs. something like these stick on temp strips? http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-ENGINE-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6766c339&vxp=mtr I don't think you should overfill to make the gauge work to be honest - also remember that once the bike is running oil is moving and may or may not be coating the tip of the gauge at all times, so your readings may not be accurate anyway. If what you are worried about is overheating (which everyone that has posted about says they needn't have bothered worrying) then the temp strips should be good enough and are much more accurate. If you are worried about oil flow then a pressure gauge is much more useful but not easily installed. I really miss my bevel drive Ducati - I had a cam gear cover with a glass viewport and I could see when the oil was flowing, and when it was up to temperature I could see the viscosity change and the oil flowing properly....
I use the strips. Work great. Played around with a IR thermometer on a cold start till I found the highest point with actual oil temps and stuck the strip there. Works a treat. Cheaper at my local Cycle Gear (No, I don't work there anymore) than eBay.
I'm not worried at all, really, just curious. Thanks, that's a good option, too. Do the strips have a pretty good lifespan?
If you have, did you need to grind off any of the case saver to get it to fit? I'm thinking of trying one, but it appears to be mighty tight in there with the 15T and the case saver looks thin enough as it is.
yes, #8 gear, 10 & 11 pawls and 14 plate had notching & wear. replacing helped with shifting, but neutral is still notchy