Hey ron, What are you using for music? It looks pretty slick. On a totally different topic, I just picked up the TT tac, I have been trying to find a place to mount it. My bars have a cross brace so your mount is out. I was thinking about fabricating a mount for close to my gps on the right side of the bars. How easy is the TT tac to see in the sun or from an angle? Thanks, Nick
Sure, I've painted the inside of cheap lights white, and put foil tape in there too, for reflection. It makes them brighter, but didn't do either here...
Anyone else care to chime in here on the EBC? Which replacement rotor did you go with, what is the diameter? I'm considering upgrading because I will need another rotor anyway. Thanks,
Well, I did some maintenance this weekend. Learning things with my first motorcycle. Adjusted the chain and cleaned and re-oiled the airfilter. When i was down there working on the chain area I counted the teeth on the sprokets. It looks like the PO put on a 51 tooth back to make it 14/51. No wonder it doesn't like cruise very fast on the way to the trails. I guess new sprockets and chain have moved up the new parts list a ways. Because of this and the fact that the chain seems to be a link too long or something. At least with the snail adjusters at the biggest setting and the bike sitting on the sidestand it measures more like 5 fingers of slack, not 3...:huh
Haven't looked in a while, but I believe the replacement bracket(s) only work with a 320mm rotor (stock SM is an oddball 310mm).
I have the DRC Edge 2 taillight also. I like the DRC blinkers you have there, if you say they are bright enough in the daylight.
thanks, its a IPOD nano, only issue is its so tiny, could not use it with gloves on, so i got this, and problem solved http://www.ebay.com/itm/iJet-iNav-B...914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1efd3762 Its wireless, i can pause, volume up and down, turn off/on, and go to next songs, shuffle, etc, all very simple, and all with me gloves on, really happy with this system, you can have the ipod anywhere, either on the bike, or on your in person, and it works great. I have a S model, got the EBC 320 front rotor and the only bracket that works with the S/E model is the EBC 015 bracket, lots of posts on TT about people getting wrong brackets and it does not work, the 015 is what you need for a S/E model, so much more stopping power over the stock rotor, Stock front S rotor works ok with the 21'' front wheel, but once i switched the SM 17 front wheel, the stopping power decreased so much, had to aqueeze the shite out of it, to get it to stop, the 320 rotor solved that, great stopping power now.
Ha! I assume this is pointed at me. Thanks for the warning. I had actually forgotten about Jesse/Kientech. I just got off the phone with them and they are mailing me the o-ring (49 cents) and a set of socket head float bowl screws.
I am curious if I'm reading my tire date code correctly. They are D606's and the code is BDYM 4405. I'm assuming the 4405 means 44th week of 2005. Is this correct? I'm getting a little a little checking around the lugs. No problems as of yet. But, a ten year old motorcycle tire does have me a little concerned. They still seem to work great on and off road. TIA. Edit: I noticed the stock front tire shows an 80/100-21. But it has the D606 90/90-21 on it. I'm guessing they don't make a 606 in the stock size.
Yes, that's a pretty old tire. It's probably older than should be run, but I have run many tires that are older than they should be. The stock size is 80/100 but the 90/90 is nearly identical and likely has the same outer diameter. 21s pretty much only come in one width per model; 80 or 90. I think someone made an 85 once but it's been a while since I saw it anywhere. The first number is the section width, the second is the aspect ratio. So the 80/100 is 80mm wide and 100% as tall as it is wide so the sidewall is 80mm tall. The 90/90 is 90mm wide and 90% as tall which means the sidewall is 81mm tall. More good info here: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle-tires-101-guide
I just ordered a new set of the 606's. At closer inspection most of the center lugs are weather checked at the base. It wouldn't hurt to put on a new pair of shoes for the start of a new season.
Hey all! I just picked up a 2001 DRZ400s. Its been farkled some with a set of moose racing bars, pillow top grips, a set of bark busters, Clarke 3.9g tank, full FMF exhaust (but currently wearing the stock silencer), 12v power port and 2 USB ports, fender and number plate bags, and a rear rack. Its a little ragged from just having completed a 4000mi trip (guy bought it and kitted it out just for the trip then put it away in his garage) and has a few things that need looking after. It needs a new chain and sprockets (ordered). The carb needs cleaned or re-jetted (it stumbles a bit in the midrange). The dash doesn't work or even light up (but the indicators do) and the speedo cable backed off its stud on the back side of the gauge cluster (will look into a vapor if I can't get the stocker going again). And while it has a new set of IRC GP-110s on it I want to get something a more aggressive but still capable of doing highway (opinions on the MT-43's ?).
I found out that the reflector bracket above the fender on the S model works great to mount axillary lights! They are just cheap LEDs from Ebay, but they work great! You might notice that the lights are slightly different, thats becuase one is a flood the other is a spot. I made a bracket out of 1/8 aluminum to hold my switch for the lights, I also added a 12V USB power adapter. I used a relay under the seat which is switched on with the ignition. You can also see where I grounded everything.
Very nice light setup. I'm glad it looks so nice but now I think I will have to spend some more money. I was thinking about fitting up some lights to my reflector bracket. I have ADV monsters on my weestrom, I really like their high beam trigger so you can ride around all day long getting noticed but when you key up the high beams you get every bit of light the bike can muster. As for the smoked DRC lights. They shine well. If you don't like them you can get a new set of amber lenses for $3.25 at Wheeling Cycle Supply I wanted them to sort of fly under the radar unless lit up. The clears blend in the with hand guards and the lights in the back blend with the mud and my dirt bagz. I'll try to get a pic of them lit up in daylight however we are getting more liquid sunshine in Washington. Nick
Blinker ON Running light ON Brake light OFF Blinker ON Running light ON Brake light ON The second one turned out with a bunch of glare. You can still get an idea for the brightness and visibility of the lights. They were both shot under overcast conditions. I'll try to get some more when the clouds go away. Nick
I tried the MT43 (still have one) they're amazing tires for certain tasks. Like grip well in nasty hill climbs (loose rocks or whatever) work well in single tracks, rocky terrains and loose stuff. I didn't like it in ruts and switchback trails at mid to hi-speed. Not so good in muddy conditions and breaking specially while descending a hill (lack of traction). The good thing is u can run it down to 8 or 5psi with no problem. It wear well and can put 1800 miles easy.
There are problems with this. The thin layer of Aluminium Oxide that forms almost instantly with contact to air is a very good insulator. This looks like it is doubled up with aluminium terminals. It could only be worse if the ground path was from the steel frame to the aluminium sub-frame or vice versa. OEMs don't normally do this for the above reason unless they are cheap. When they do the bike is often plagued by electrical problems as it ages. They instead use a common ground path through the harness. Another foot and those three ground wires could have been terminated on the battery post.
90/90 is fine. Last week the decision was between a 90/90 Mitas C-21 and a 90/100 Starcross HP4 (non-DOT) for the run up north. The HP4 is better a better floater on sand. Most of the trip was going to be gravel so I chose the Mitas. I use a 80/100 Mitas C-17 when playing on firm ground. All else equal, narrower tires bite better and wider tyres float better. My tyre choices are only an example. I use a 130/90 or 140/80 on the rear. I was looking forward to that trip on the DRZ too. It has just had a new engine built. Of course the best laid plan went south waiting on a truck and delaying my departure. I was to spend 6 days on the road solo and I should have left on Saturday. I left this morning (Tuesday) on a straight highway run on my GTLE with a couple of stragglers. I am typing from the back seat as we cruise up the highway about an hour south of Alice Springs so it is not all bad.
