For what little its worth, mine starts up with about 3 revs with the starter and enricher on full, after about 10 seconds I kick it down to the lower setting on the enricher and let it idle there till I get my jacket zipped up and helmet and gloves on. All thru this 1/2 a minutes it sits there and thumps steadily and even, I push the enricher in when I get on and don't have an issue. This procedure is good down to the 25-30deg temp that keeps it from cranking good enough to fire. If it gets colder than that I cringe too much at making the starter plow thru the cold oil and take the truck. Stock jets, opened airbox, Jesse's needle with clip on the bottom(rich) and one of those terribly loud megaphone mufflers on it. It has been pinging under hard throttle before the temps dropped, and even now I can feel it sluggish and hunting a bit at hiway speed. I still haven't gotten the bigger main I got from Gerg put in.
Just curious if anyone is running a USB power cord from the battery or a switched hot lead (like tail light) to run a smart phone or navigation device on these bikes. Are they able to keep a device charged while riding? The charge output on my WR is crazy high, as I can keep my smartphone and GoPro fully charged all day with a USB power cord from the tail light hot lead while riding with both devices plugged in at the same time. Wondering how the DR power output compares. In particular, I've got the '93 S kick only model.
Idk how my 99 SE compares to yours but I run 2 10w led lights and usb charging from a 10g fused lead forward from the battery.
Thats very high for used parts..... here is the cap brand new 78.59 http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ab89f8700220d0b72280/fuel-tank-model-v-w and the key assembly 49.00 http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ab87f8700220d0b7227a/wiring-harness granted this is for a 99' DR350SE but it should fit his older model.. or..you can just lookup the one you need there..
Years ago, I ran a 75 watt jacket, 55 watt headlight, 35 watt hot grips & stock tail light on my '96 SE model. It would power this load without the lights flickering at high engine RPMs. If I didn't turn off some of the load @ low RPM, the battery wouldn't keep up & I'd have to push start. This much load may have overheated the wiring insulation. After push starting once, I swapped to a 25 watt headlight & didn't have any more trouble., but I'd switch off some load when going slow. The S & SE models put out about 160 watts - I think. Nowadays, I routinely run a 35 watt headlight, LED taillight, no instrument lights, no turn signals, a 35 watt heated vest, 35 watt heated grips, a GPS & a USB port to keep my phone charged. The DR has no trouble with this load - even at low RPMs, although I try to turn down the grips with a Heatroller &/or turn off the vest in slow going.
The best way to know is to put a volt meter on the bike. I run a hardwired digital meter all the time but if you just want to know how much load it will support you could temporarily attach one.
OMG, what`s the Story? Surviver of the bear season? Zombie Apolaypse? Under water parking lot? I´m still kicking my engine, and other People throw away a DR SE ... can`t believe it...
I mean that when the bike is cold I have to turn in the idle screw to raise the rpm's and as the bike warms up I have to adjust the idle out to keep it around 1500. I have the stock carb on it.
heres the 4.6-18 SR244, with about 2,000 on it. i like your 4.1 better & it'll be the next front for me
remember your welding the oil tank right there. if you burn through you will have a hard time sealing it back up.... my buddies bike had a leak around the top motor mount weld and I never could get it sealed up.
On a recent brisk dual sport ride, my new-to-me DR350 ('95, 4150 miles) began to lose power or so I thought. Before too long, it became obvious that the front brake was applying itself. I pulled to the side only to realize it was just short of locked up. After putzing aimlessly about for a few minutes, and then relieving pressure by loosening the bleed screw a bit, the brake returned to normal, but I was careful to use it only when absolutely necessary. I pulled the cover expecting to find all kindsa crud, perhaps clogging the fluid return hole, but found only clean, clear fluid with no visible corrosion or crud of any sort. Next I checked to ensure that the lever was permitting the master cylinder piston to 'top out' against the retaining clip and indeed it was. I'm not anxious for this to recur, especially not when I'm in a corner in loose sand, so any ideas for a cure much appreciated, ESPECIALLY from anyone who has experienced themselves. TIA!
Wow, that's a lot of gear for a DR350 to power. I get nervous about the battery when I'm running heated grips and charging a phone a the same time!
Sure are. The electronic stuff you mentioned likely draws less than five watts and certainly less than ten. I run heated jacket and gloves during north Florida's "Winter" and have no issues.
Rebuild your master cylinder and caliper. I'll bet money that will solve the problem. The fluid passages in the MC are tiny and can get blocked up easily. If the return passage gets blocked, the caliper won't be able to release properly. Less likely is that the caliper itself is binding, though that's a possibility as well. Either way, rebuild kits are relatively cheap and it's not a difficult process. You're basically just cleaning and replacing rubber parts. I rebuild the brake systems on every "new" vehicle I buy (since I don't buy actual new vehicles) for peace of mind. Brake fluid absorbs water and "stuff" starts accumulating in the system. Ideally, brake fluid should be flushed each year - the volume of fluid in the DR brake system is tiny! I do my motorcycles once a year and my cars every 2-3 years, just as preventative maintenance. Use a good quality brake fluid, too, and you'll get an improvement in fade resistance. I like Castrol LMA for most vehicles and ATE 200 (since you can't get Super Blue anymore ) for vehicles which will be driven/ridden a little harder.
Since nobody wanted to buy my '99 forks and since my lil ole DR350 pleasantly surprised me on a recent ride (to which I referred above) I have revived my plan to fit the '99 forks on my bike. So far I have the forks, the later caliper, and the 17mm axle. What else I need? Different front wheel? Different disc? Can I use my existing wheel with different bearings?
Hi halmc, I'll take a stab...there are really only four things (that I can think of) that might cause this: 1. Master cylinder faulty - needs a rebuild. 2. Caliper faulty - needs a rebuild. 3. Pads are too worn/disc is too thin. Permits the cylinder in the caliper to extend too far and get "cocked". Then it won't retract fully. Fix is to replace the disc and pads. This has happened to me before. 4. Brake hose has been pinched or damaged internally such that it starts to act like a one-way valve. It would permit fluid to flow in one direction, but not in the other. I've definitely heard of this happening before. I hope this helps! Regards, Gregory Bender
Is there somebody else up there we can talk to? LOL, I was hoping to avoid all that, but yours is excellent, if unwelcome advice and I'll bite the bullet shortly, I figure. Brake parts from Jesse?
