This might be a long shot for most, but check the yellow pages for any industrial boiler makers within driving distance, especially if you live in a large city. Luckily I have one three miles down the road. They regularly scrap out steel discs from 5/16 to 1" thick and from 3" up to 5' in diameter. I went down with my pickup truck (this was 15 years ago so and they dont just 'give' this stuff away anymore, but scrap prices are cheap enough) and got a .75" X 3.5' diameter steel circle that just sits on my benchtop as a welding platform. Pretty much doubles as an anvil surface for pounding on things as well. Takes two good sized guys to move it anywhere. Otherwise you can just stroll the yard at the local scrap metals dealer (if they're as cool about that as my local ones are) and surely find something well suited for a welding table.
I got a used WP20-style watercooled torch for almost free, and fitted that to my TIG-welder instead of the WP17-style air-cooled torch. I don't need it to extend nonstop welding time or be able to run higher welding currents, but i love the smaller torch head and far more flexible cabling. Had to add a small pump, hosing and coolant storage to the machine though, but I had more or less suitable components on the shelves. (pic1 pic2 pic3) Now, this 'new' torch came with the shortest end cap, gas lens and spanner for 2,4mm (3/32") tungsten and a #5 cup. That's insufficient, so I want to get some more consumables. A few more cups, longer end cap, spanners for 1,6mm (1/16") tungsten, etc. Question: to gas lens or not to gas lens when buying the consumables? I never missed the gas lens before, but on the other hand getting only the 1,6mm gas-lens parts won't cost more than getting both the 2,4mm and 1,6mm non gas-lens parts. Does a gas lens have any disadvantages compared to the normal parts?
I'll bite. Why does a boiler maker have large, round burn-table drop? I would think it would be the other way around; a big rectangle or square with a round hole in it.
How do I weld aluminum? I have tried welding aluminum bars and endup melting the welding stick and can not melt the stick on the aluminum bars. I am using a butane torch that is use for welding copper pipe for plumbing. Do I need some special torch or some special type of aluminum bar? Thank's.
You mean brazing/soldering the aluminium using rods like those Durafix ones? First: clean, clean, clean, clean, and then clean some more. Manual wire brush with a STAINLESS brush, then wipe it with some acetone. Both the 'to be welded' parts and the aluminium soldering rod. Next: heat the aluminium with the butane torch. Then: when the parts are hot enough, remove the flame, and jam the brazing rod into the joint area. If it melts your aluminium is hot enough, if it doesn't: continue heating. Now continue 'painting' the joint area with the brazing filler by scratching the rod over the surface. Just like you would color a piece of paper with a pencil. If things cool too much: remove rod, add heat, repeat. Takes some getting used to and it's not easy, but I used these rods sucessfully. Two warnings: - Never point both the flame and the brazing rod to the same square centimeter of aluminium. It won't work. - Once brazed, it can never be welded without completely removing the brazing filler first. As soon as an electric arc hits the brazing filler it will explode right in the welders' face. No, usually not. A regular torch gets hot enough for brazing aluminium. Big parts require a big flame to get them hot enough, but that's obvious.
I do stainless occasionally. It's a nice material for making various brackets. But OK, no problems using a gas lens setup all the time.
Hey man Ive had an sp100 since 1987/use 2-3 large spools a year (love to play) I recently had it repaired and they replaced the stock lead with a Tweeco now it uses all standard easy to find stuff/I still use the old one alot since I fixed it (shorter,easier to use) Im trying to convert tip,if I figure it out ill let you know, Ron Madera Ca.
Ive done a little with my mig/but be prepared to ruin the liner learning also need to use argon gas,for the brase you can use MAP gas, its quite a bit hotter than butans if you need lots of heat, Ron Madera ca (ttzonk)
So, I own a welder. A welder I have never used and have no idea how to use. I was at Canadian Tire last year about picked up a Mig and Flux Core welder on sale for $199. I was going to use it to work on an old Jeep YJ I had but long story short, that Jeep ended up at the wrecker before I could do anything with it. Where do you all suggest I start to learn to use this poor neglected piece of equipment? edit; other than reading this thread of course
Bought my SP 100 around 85 when they first came out. I use it A LOT for a little welder. Maybe 2 or 3 10 lb. spools of wire a year. When I wore out the whip, I bought a Lincoln Magnum 100. Its great and been on the welder for 10 or so years. Screw on gas cone is much better than the old slide on style. Nothing works better on automobile exhaust. Davidf
Go to a scrap yard and get a bunch of scrap and start welding. I taught myself and am def not an expert but I got go od enough to make decent welds. Maybe put up acraigslist ad for lessons? Make a joint then smash it apart with a bfh to see if it's strong enough
Here is a thread about welding instruction books:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430336&highlight=books The classic advice is to find a local college welding class.
I am thinking of getting a Gas Fluxer for the Oxy Acetylene set to save the painting of flux on the job and the rod and the subsequent clean up. Anyone had any experience with these and or have any leads? I have heard they chew up hoses and that needs to be considered, but other than that know little about them. Cheers Pilbara
Does anybody have pic of how you set up your backer gas. I don't want to buy another tank of argon, guages, or hoses to complete my set up. I was thinking of maybe a tee that goes into the guage so that I can run the tig torch and supply the backer gas, is this possible? And where would I get a tee like this?
I'll take a pic when I get back to the shop early next week. Your thinking is correct, I have two regulators tee-ed off one bottle.
I have a Transalp, and the riding position has started to make my knees hurt (I'm 6'2" and wear 34" inseam pants). Another inmate did the work described in this thread himself. Can anyone here give me even a rough idea of how much I would pay to have all these modifications made commercially? Thanks