Must say I am not surprised - if the bearings are of the same quality as some of the other fastners and bolts on these bikes!
Was it Indy unlimited ? --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=41.877093,-72.751134 Life is good!
Bob.. Indy somethin or other is his SN. Indyunlimited maybe.Im sure someone will chime in and correct me... And Dom, do you EVER stop bitchin....? Jeezus h...
I've wondered about this, my shifter keeps rubbing on the case despite moving it a couple of times, it still works it's way back, I don't think it would take much to push it through the case, but I haven't found any case guards for either side. Does anyone make them or do I need to make my own?
And if that doesnt work, George/Uptite makes a sleeve that goes on and takes all that slop out. Very nice
Yeah Bob, I still make the Husky clutch cup springs for modern TE610s and TE630s Anyone who is interested please PM me for details. It is cheaper than replacing stock parts that will fail again within 10,000 miles. Here is a picture of the failed cups and my heat treated thicker tool steel cups to be used with the old springs. All you need to order is 3 rivets to reattach the gear to the clutch basket. Just got another batch of 100 kits ready for worldwide shipment! I got over 30,000 miles on my Husky! Still running strong!
I cut my shift lever below the kink and slide the ends into a small peace of pipe, welded it around extending the lever about 3/4 to 1 inch. 3yrs of riding and it has never contacted the the case since unless it was laying on its side. Also makes it easier to fit a riding boot under. Though you will miss second gear alot the first week after the mod.
Is there really no aftermarket gear lever out there that will work? I recall someone modding a Hammerhead shifter - anyone know which model is close?
So I presume xymotic sold his te ?? Xymotic big ups to you man for still chiming in and share your knowledge . When you look back on this thread you are a massive and great contribution to the 610 guys n girls ( if there is any ) . Without all your "experiences" been shared we would be far less off. Good on you - I hope you get back onto a sweet ride again soon .
Yet to order the bearings and do the job - read of tricks for removing races - lets hope they are not to hard as I don't have allot of the tools required to help remove them ( welders / presses / cutter etc) if they don't come out with a long punch I may have to pay a mechanic ??? Or buy some more tools ? Let me know how you go
I broke one of the bolts for the oil filter cover- maybe 1/3 of an inch, so there is still maybe 1/2 inch stuck. Any suggestions how to get this thing out, since it's such a precarious place? I tried a 1/16 drill bit, which snapped in one second, then I tried one a little larger but I can't get it to seat right in the center, and this is not a place I want to chance hitting the threads. Edit: I've chilled-out, and searched the web a bit. So, I'm gonna try a left-handed bit, I guess. (Plus, a center-punch, oil, slow-speed drilling, and luck.)
Even though this was made for a DRZ, it fits pretty well on the TE610. Here's a couple pics, in case anyone was considering this to clean-up the rear... <table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From junk</td></tr></tbody></table> <table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From junk</td></tr></tbody></table>
Thanks for the info, and please post pics of your guards when you make them...............so I can try and copy them This sounds easier.......................but I understand that it's not to easy to get ahold of George
Hes picked up the phone everytime Ive called his shop. 7145402920 And he only does COD. Ive never had a problem with it though, whether home or even when shipping to me on rhe road for work etc... His stuff is the real deal.