Sibirsky Extreme 2012 - The Toughest Ride of Them All

Classic, I spewed my morning coffee out my nose...thank you very much

Rod,

You are cracking me up. Love the narrative. I may be back in london for business in a couple months, would love to grab a beer or three and hear some of these stories in person!

I rode on into the evenng and the roads previously quiet became almost deserted.
In Siberia you're never far from this -The Trans Siberian Raliway. The road shadows the railway for maybe 2 thousand kilometers, and I'd cross it numerous times in the next days




About 7.30 I entered a little industrial town-withthe unmistakeable griminess of a mining town. I felt it'd be prudent to try to grab somewhere to stay. I was looking for a sign that says "Gastinitsiya" in cyrillic. Any motel/whatevetr will show this sign.
I entered this one and understood quite quickly...it apparently wasn't just Motels that seem to show this sign. and there were a number of "sporting girls"hanging about near the lobby and outside. It's fair to say they were not of the premium variety, but budget bints and had complexions and strange bodily bulges and undulations that presumably were linked to the fees they felt reflected the dubious pleasure of their lumpy company. I'd already opened my mouth and asked if "Gastintsiya"were available when I spotted this anomaly.
Dragon clearly had a sister and had called ahead as Ms Madam-Dragon shouted "Nye-gastinitsiya" and a load more abuse at me, so I stepped back in shock, gathered what was left of my dignity and slunk out. FFS!!

I rode on another hour or so through the unbroken Siberian forest (plant a tree and save the world.?..they've 500 feckin' trillion of' 'em there) and was looking for somewhere next to one of the many streams to pitch my tent when I came upin a Motel (result!) so went into the reception and spoke to Dragon 3 of the day.

"Gastinitsiya?"...Da! she replied. Ok..how much. She replied that she'd no rooms left, but had a couch in a wee lounge I could sleep on in a room with 3 other couches...but I'd need to pay for all 4 and the room had no door or shower. nada. I asked how much. it was 60 quid...about 100 bucks. How much?? You thieving bitch! I thought it but didn't say it. I was dog tired and almost took it, but then thought better of it and more than a little angry at this ourageous witch.

"Nyet!"...I'll camp.

I walked out and hopped on the bike, as I pulled out of the car park I noticed another hotel just across the way, so scooted over and tried again. This time .."Bingo" a room for 24 quid and a resto and bar attached too.

Some of it was kinda "work in progress"...they'd put the stair well in but no stairs. Presumably its on the basis of natural selection..the slow, stupid and drunk don't make it out alive?

I grabbed my room and snagged a quick shower.
As I was getting dressed I heard some bikes pull on to the car park and looked out of the window. A bunch of 9 foot guys was riding in on overland bikes......EH?
I pulled some gear on and went down to the resto. After a few minutes they came in and it went dark as they passed the door...FUCK!...They're enormous...they look a bit mean...hope they don't take me outside, beat the shit out of me and nick my bike. :eek1

They went to grab some food and I watched them quietly..then they started talking and they were using proper English words and not just talking about death, pimping, drugs and stealing bikes. Dare I say anything?
I put on my "tough guy Jock" voice as opposed to my usual girlie squeak and said hello expecting to be punched backwards out of the room...they all said hello back and introduced themselves!

It was a bunch of Norwegians heading to Irkutsk ..."Just come from there " quoth I and the biggest guy asked if I'd heard of Walters trip (good ....they'll steal HIS bike )...I replied I'd just left the guys that morning and it came to light that they'd been in touch with W and had hoped to meet at some point. JESUS!

This was indeed the long arm of coincidence..what chance meeting someone looking to meet mutual contacts, 5000 miles from home in Siberian hotel I almost didn't stay in. Hurts my head. Owwww!

The guys were great fun and they asked if I knew anywhere to stay in Irkutsk and naturally I pointed them to Nina's- I didn't know anywhere else.

There were no rooms left in this motel so after a while they saddled up and we said our goodbyes and good lucks.


Look out Sibirsky 2013...The Vikings Are Coming. Roll on Chapter 3.

I finished my beer(s) and went to bed. What a day.

PM me a few days before you land and we'll jack it up. RC

Good stuff! Thanks Rod!

...you killing me with your narrative & the whole story My breakfast is all over my table ! Now I will need to clean my keyboard too .... no, you good man, I'll buy you a few rounds once I get somewhere your way - the "dragon lady restaurant" is an instant classic(I could see you face with puffed cheeks full of pork- too good to give it back!) , it made me cry w/joy ...you good... keep going man....

Just wanted to say that this is a great report that is so well written. You guys must have had this in mind before the ride.

I started reading these to get advice for my own exploits (which are minor mainly due to time and priorities). I read this though to learn, yes, but now simply because it's just such good reading.

keep safe and keep writing.

Seems like half the biking world would like to meet you guys, me included.

cheers dave

Rod, what do you use to pump up your repaired tire? Hand pump? Electric compressor? Can you recommend a brand/model?

Terry you've been really great company too! We would have loved to stay longer!
I only met you once before the trip and I didn't knew what I was getting myself into but we're really thankful for the wonderful time we had together!

I do remember that river crossing though you indeed should have helped me instead of oser but I do accept your apologies...

Thanks everyone for all the kind reactions! From now on we'll be following the RR just like you.

I use a litle foot pump sold by Hein Gericke called "Bikers Dream". Admittedly I never knew a biker that dreamed of footpumps but there clearly must be a pump fetishist who's designed the thing.
It's about half the size of a spectacles case but thicker, and just weighs a few ounces.
I personally wouldn't have an electric pump as they're bulky, heavy and burn out just when you need them. usually on the first time they're used.............. seen it happen several times.

Cue everyone chiming in with their electric pumps wot's never let them down.....

Everyday , I come here looking for a fix. Not hard to see why it has a sticky. The people involved and their narrations and pictures are what make it. As each fades in and out of the journey, it's like having an old friend come over for a few days , then leave. Very touching. Love Rod taking up the slack on the story and chomping at the bit for phase 3. Will; be missing Rod, Bruster and Beamster and the color they added to this story.

You met my ex wife???

I always take an engine air pump. But I never had to use it this trip

Rod,

you are like most of the jocks I've met in my life, feckin hilarious Hopefully one day our paths will cross and we can indulge in some beers and banter, thanks for brightening up my day again

Oh how I miss the simpleness of doing maintenance on my 3 BMWs ( R11GS, R11R and R1150GS) of past. Even on the KLR I take the seat and gas tank off to access the sparkplug.
I wonder if anyone has used the kind of air compressor that Pruster carried on a single. Just wondering if the battery would make it filling up a tire.

As Rod and some others here have commented, people are inherently good. They keep to their own business and give a hand when it is needed. This is my second trip to Russia and I just love the people, the scenery and the country It is the best place to be on a bike.

Before my first trip to Russia I was full of prejudice. A Russian character in an American movie is a big bald guy (like me ) that will beat you to death with a brick. That's if he is in a good mood :huh

I grew up with the cold war and the iron curtain. When we crossed over the border the first time it was a bit scary. We did not know what to expect. We'd heard all these horrible stories. Our big BMW's would be nicked in a minute and we would be left bloody in a ditch for the wild animals to feed on. Nothing could be further from the truth. My prejudices were picked away on by one. By way of unselfish friendliness, helpfulness and kindness.

Walter once wrote: Treat a Russian biker as your brother. Not as a friend, but as your brother. Because he would do the same for you. I second that, but I would delete the word biker

I also want to extend my thanks to you the reader. For your comments and encouragement A trip like this has three faces:

1. The Planning.
   You look at maps. Draw the route and dream. Talk to other adventurers. Gather intel. Set a date.
   
   
2. The Trip.
   You get on your bike and go. You start with Plan A. Ends up with Plan Y or something, but you have a great trip. You meet marvelous humans. You conquer difficulties and grow as a human being. You expand your vision. You see that you are not the centre of the universe
   
   
3. The Storytelling.
   You get to relive your trip. You go through all your pictures and videos. You are back in the woods. Thinking about all the great persons you have met.

It is really fun to share a trip like this. Especially with an audience like you

I have an electric pump that I use on my XC. No problem filling up a tire, but I keep the engine running

Thank you Pruster + Beemster

Walter, Terry, Rod, Prutzer, Beemster, EtronX and crew, thank YOU for so generously sharing your trip with us. It must take a tremendous amount of time to write the reports you do. It is so rare to find great writing that can be both serious, and funny while constantly returning to the theme of adventure, and you all do it wonderfully well. You let us see the world through your eyes and experience, which gives us the chance to grow a little ourselves, albeit from afar. "Thanks" doesn't begin to do the job.