Ho-hum it must be winter in USA/north..threads are becoming mundane..!!.... thought id follow some others in disabling the sidestand switch...( in a slow quest to reduce ? the ocasional flame-out when racing to a stop ) Another inmate suggested a 1K to 3K resistor to repace the hall switch putting this resisror between the pink and black wires [ there are 3 wires going to the switch pink, black and blue ]. I did a few tests to ceate some understanding and what we have is a blue wire that supplies a regulated 5 Volts from the ECU to power the switch [ the switch is a Hall device [ linear response to a magnet ] coupled internally to a Schimdt trigger level detector that provide a snap action . [ hope im not boring anyone ]. Anyway, at ignition switch on, 5V is sent to blue and without the Hall connected the pink wire also reads 5 Volts. With the Hall switch in place and activated [ stand up ] the pink wire is locked down to 2.50Volts. Black is the earth wire or at earth potential [ 0 ].. I did a few tests to establish the ( voltage ) effect of adding the first mentioned resistor ''cheat '' to ''pull down '' the pink wire to about 2.5 Volts . 3.3K gives 3.02 volts 2.7K gives 2.78 Volts 2.2K gives 2.52 Volts [ test resistors between black and pink ] 1.8K gives 2.27 volts 1.5K gives 2.06 Volts 1.0K gives 1.6 Volts After all this bull we must conclude that probably the best resistor to use is 2.2k { 2200 ohms } ...a standard value and i used a 1 watt metal oxide type [ most stable ] [ fortunately i carry many of every resistor 1 ohm ...1 Meg ohm at home so its an easy test !! ] So after all that #&*@# , simply cut wires to stand above connector near shock, solder in 2.2 K ohms between Pink and Black, heat shrink it, then isolate and heat shrink off the blue so it cant short....and Bobs your uncle ....
Yeah....I was gonna say that. But some of these guys know how to make a simple job so effin complicated Ged the Luddite <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input jscode="leoInternalChangeDone()" onclick="if(typeof(jsCall)=='function'){jsCall();}else{setTimeout('jsCall()',500);}" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
We are currently working with Torque Racing on a customers very special machine. It is a brand-new EML chassis that has been specifically designed to accept the KTM 690 Enduro engine,and we are currently working on manufacturing a new airbox,and silencer and radiator mountings to finish it off. It had Reiger shocks all round,and the workmanship on the chassis is fantastic. It will become a road-legal enduro machine,and I would love to have a go in it!!!
I have learned over time that if someone has already taken the time to make a viable solution then it is often worth the cost of buying it vs the cost and time of creating your own solution. If there is no existing solution or the existing solution can be improved upon then its worth the effort.
Most of us have used 2.2K ohm 1/4 watt resistor when disabling most any sensor/control. Seems to work well.
Gave up on this POS. Bought an Africa Twin, and as soon as I get back to Canada in July, mine's for sale. Excellent attempt KTM, but you shit the bed on waaaaaay too many issues to attempt to fix. Still love my 450 EXC.
After owning a 950 the list of 'issues' for the 690, as well as the time it takes to fix them is ridiculously lower To each's own! Good luck.
What I need now is content. Links to posts that have valuable content about mods, explanations of procedures, maintenance, known issues, etc. I'll polish the wiki categories and layout a bit this weekend and will start adding content as we find it. For now I've created a new thread so we don't spam this one with links to posts/data to be added to the wiki. Wiki Thread Oh, does anyone have a Logo we can use that isn't copyrighted or something? I'm also go to see if I can get some sort of skin for the wiki pages.
My wife offered to make a logo, do you want Her to do it? I've never gotten a response from you, so just making sure I'm not on your ignore list.
Thanks for the support !!.... Its much quicker to fit a resistor than wait for a plug-in cheat to arrive in the post and at about 1 to 2 cents for the resistor is just a tad cheaper too. There is an additional advantage that one is eliminating the plug which can be another possible future failure point..... say no morre says Monty Python.