well if it were me i would takeoff the fuel line from the petcock and suck on the line , if its, crap in the neddle seat that will clear it , if that dosent do it then you need to remove the bowl and check things out a little more , i would say 30 min. to a hour if you have all the tools, , make sure the bike is cold, mike
Not long. You can remove the edelbrock's float bowl without removing the carb from the bike. Just remove the tank, loosen the clamps and rotate the carb so you can access the cap screws on the bottom of the float bowl. You will have to unhook the linkage to the pump as well. Be careful and don't lose the pump check needle from the carb bowl. A diagram is here: http://www.edelbrock.com/motorcycle/carbs/carb_internals.pdf
There is a cable hanging down under the tank, just infront of the fuel switch on the left side. It has a knob that you can spin. I'm thinking this is the remote idle cable. But going off the manual I'm suppose to turn it all the way closed, then just 1.5 open. But I've twisted the knob about twenty + times towards close and it just keeps turning. Can that be right?
It is the idle cable. Best way to deal with it is turn it while you watch what happens, It might not have a positive stop as you back it out, I can't remember. I would screw it in several turns so it idles high and then you can back it out once the bike is running. These carbs only have a few adjustments, right now I suggest you not mess with them and work to cure the fuel overflow. You are getting the carb further and further from the working condition it was in when you bought the bike (and presumably ran and idled fine). Cure the fuel overflow first and then go from there.
I had looked at your site and couldn't tell if you were a start-up or been going for awhile. Nice to see you guys stick with the sport!! You guys must have a technique that makes it strong enough, Dirtbagz racks snap on joints like that and so do my own when I make them. Ahhh, the comfort of an Acerbis tank and a stock seat...
Sean, nice, pleasant work to do. Was curious, what is this? Seen it before, still don't know what it does...
Update: Took seat, tank, carb bowl off. Didn't really know what I was looking for in the carb as it was my first time looking in one. But, I pushed the float a couple time, seemed to be functioning well. Dumped the gas, looked in it some more. Lined gaskets back up, tightened it down good. Pulled the spark plug, looked ok, put everything back together. Turned on the gas. First kick sounded like it wanted to start. Next five nothing, then I realized I must of bumped the kill switch on the first kick. Next kick it fired right up. I let it sit and idle for a minute. Then I noticed another problem. The throttle sticks. Went to rev it, and it kind of stuck in a high idle. Def not normal. Gave it some more gas and rode the throttle forward, and it still was at a high idle. Put it in gear to run around the block. Ran fine minus the idle being so high. I was able to put it in second and let go of the clutch and compltely release the throttle and it still cruised down the road. Every now and then I would hold the clutch and rev it up, it seemed like it would then drop down to a normal idle, but as soon as I gave it some more gas to go, it would stick again. After riding around for a few minutes rev'n it, then letting off the gas, and it falling down to a good idle, it completely died while holding the clutch in. I stopped, looked around and could see gas coming out of the overflow tube routed to the swingarm. Tried to kick it, no avail. Let it sit for about an hour, went out, fired up on second kick, and exact same thing happened. Is the throttle sticking open like that just flodding the engine at that low speed causing it to cut out? I was thinking its just the throttle cable being stubburn from sitting for a awhile and lube drying up. But wouldn't I be able to roll the throttle forward and fix any high idle problem?
yesterday I set out to set the sag. on the xr650r its 24in. on the stand from the top of the axle to the top of the subframe. I set the sag at 20in in the standing on the pegs method. at 200lbs. this is almost max om the stock spring. this is the best adj. I ever made to this bike. its like buying a new bike. it even feels faster.
...i am planning on converting my stock xrr to crf450r forks and am hoping to get some advice. i currently have an excel talon wheel on my xrr. will the crf axle/spacers fit the xrr excel talon hub, or do i need an entirely new hub to complete the conversion? also, i have been informed that all that is necessary to swap in the crf triples is a new crf bearing set for the xrr frame. is this true? if not, what is necessary? thanks for any help...
yes u can use a xrr hub with spacers that easily bolt up to the crf forks. and yes the convertion bearings are all you need to get the triples in place. i think there like 80 bucks or so.
... thanks for the info. ...a little more research on my end turned up the same thing. as most of you probably already, know evolution suspension sells the spacer kits necessary...http://www.evolutionsuspension.com/parts/
Your float needle is sticking and/or the float height is set incorrectly. The high idle could be a symptom of the float needle not working correctly, but the gas coming out is a sure symptom of it. You need to take your time and clean the carb better. Go buy some carb cleaner spray. Once you have the bowl off, try spraying carb cleaner into where the gas line hooks to the carb carb while working the float needle up and down. Stick a pipe on where the gas goes in and blow gently in and work the needle. It should seal where no air goes in. if it does not you need to take the needle out and clean it and the seat carefully. Spray with carb cleaner, use a q-tip to clean where the needle seats. Clean it well. The other issue may be your float height. But again, if it was running fine when you bought it then likely not. You will see at the back of the float it is connected to the float pin. To explain, the float needle is what controls how much gas is let into the bowl. if the float needle does not seal correctly then the bowl will keep filling up and hence the overflow you see. These needles sometimes just stick. It could be old gas, it could be trash. Whichever, yours needs to be cleaned thoroughly.
It's a brake snake. Goes between your frame/engine/skid plate and lever. Prevents twigs and branches from getting in there and screwing with your brakes, etc. I've never used one and never had an issue, but I do own one somewhere and have never installed it. Probably throw it on "just cause". I do my fair of bush wacking too so it's not like I haven't given a twig a chance to do it's thing.
There is a BD electric start kit in the flea market under the parts section. If anyone is interested in it. Not mine but the guy wants $875 for it.
i had both of these problems happen to me. the sticky throttle was the cable not routed properly on the nylon wheel inside the round housing right near the throttle. easy fix! hopefully that's what's wrong with yours. the high idle returning to normal for me was fixed by adjusting the intake valves. dillon (my mechanic, since i don't know all about these things) said the intakes were tight. after he adjusted them, problem went away.
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