the DR650 thread

It's the CCT (cam chain tensioner) and a common leak on the DR, but read this before you start.

There have been a few killed motors because guys have just jumped in (looks simple enough), without knowing the potential consequences.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/95...ve-train-adjuster-trouble/page__fromsearch__1

Including this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715659

Edited to add the short version.

Kezzajohnson wrote:
Oil leak from Cam Chain tensioner at 24,000km roughly-cause unknown but maybe slightly overfull oil and long trip/high revs constantly. Engine to TDC on compression, remove oil pipes and exhaust header, retract and removed CCT, remove old gasket, clean up gasket surfaces and fitted new gasket with gasket goo also. refit and 6000kms later no oil leaks-clean as a babies bottom.

That is your automatic cam chain tensioner (CCT) gasket. It is a pretty common leak spot. Tightening the bolts will probably not fix it. Easiest repair is a new gasket. Check out this thread for some information about it and some links to some write-ups of repairing it:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636395

Tim

Hah...Oh boy.

I just jumped in and removed the bolts that hold it on, then it popped out on its own...all this on an incline in my driveway.

Should have found a procedure first. I'm guessing I created a problem for myself.

But sure enough the gasket is torn under the housing, clearly no amount of tightening of the mount screws would have stopped the leak.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Now to see if I can put it back together.

That's what I'm talking about. That's a nice piece, thought it won't fit the 650. May have to talk to a few buddies with machine shops and see if we can get something made for mine. Seems like certain after market or non oem parts for the fatchick are had to find.

Had my first flat today (nail) and was able to get a tow to a shop that would R&R the tire and put a new tube in but I had to remove and install the wheel from the bike.

No problem, just put it on its side in the parking lot and pulled the front wheel off but since the left hand side was down I didn't get a good look at the positioning of left side spacer. I reinstalled it how "I think" the spacer fits but I'm not sure its right.

Does the larger diameter end of the spacer go up aganist the fork or the wheel hub?

The small end plugs into the wheel bearing seal, the large end against the fork.

Not my bike, but the side cases look like Givi E21's (21 L).

Do a bunch of reading before you start bolting things back up.

Thanks man!

That is what "I thought' and how I reassembled it.

Now that I'm back home I'll loosen the the axle and clamp nuts and torque all to spec.

Anybody put one of these on their DR? Any tricks?

Thanks Rob, those look better to me than the 705's. Are they louder or quieter than the 705's? I'm running t63's now and they are too noisy since I mostly run street, but don' t want to give up the gravel road ability. I like the look of the 700's.

This will be an invaluable tool in your tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002PN4IZS

Please make sure you retract it before bolting it back in. I didn't even use a new gasket, used Permatex Moto Seal 1, awesome stuff, I highly recommend

GIVI used to (still does?) call those "cruiser cases." I know they still make them, because a friend just bought a set for a new BMW. I can vouch for them. Over 10 years ago I dropped a Sportster on one at 65 mph on the Interstate. It did a great job of protecting the bike, and I'm still using that case... on the DR. It's beat and ugly, been down a few more times in the dirt, but still doesn't leak.

You were bottoming the front under braking, with Intiminators?
I can't even get close.

The cam chain tensioner is automatic in keeping tension on the cam chain. You MUST NOT just get a new gasket and install the tensioner without first retracting the plunger that sticks out. If you do, the cam chain will be far too tight resulting in damage to the chain and possibly other engine parts. This has happened to many inexperienced mechanics.....

Some cam chain tensioners have a ratchet type mechanisn to keep the chain tight such as some of the Suzuki SV650s which must be reset before installation. I think the DR650 has the screw type where you must wind a spring with the screw under the bolt on the outside end of the tensioner and hold it wound until the tensioner is installed and the mounting bolts are tight. Then you release the screw and the spring sets the position of the plunger.

L D

Suzuki was closed by the time I got there so no new gasket. Permatex it was then. Put everything back together. Made sure to retract the screw but did not check TDC. Yes the DR has the screw that must be held in place to keep it retracted...made it a bit interesting (felt like I had 3 hands there for a little while) but I found an easy way to tighten the hex bolts while keeping the screw retracted by grinding the tip of any old flat blade screwdriver down till it fit perfectly into the hex head and using that on the hex bolts. After that one one held tension on the spring screw and the other tightened the bolts simultaneously.

Let the gasket material set for a couple hours.

Crossed my fingers and fired it up. Engine sounds better now than it did before. Idles smoother too. Not sure why but I'm not going to question a performance improvement.

No leaky leaky anymore either.

You all rock for helping this rider out!!!

For the record: you turn the screw in the CCT until the plunger latches fully retracted. You do this with the CCT off of the bike.

Next time, turn the screw a leeeetle more and the tensioner will click and stay retracted.
Then once it's installed, turn the other way, click, and it extends nicely...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/drhid001.jpg/

I used heavy duty 3M velcro tape. 3 photos click on photo to make larger.