Hello, Maybe a silly question but I want to run two sets of aux lights and in the future maybe a GPS. If I use a fuse block can I connect all these accessories using just one relay? or Will each set of lights need its own relay. So far I can see the advantage of one hot wire off the battery to power the block but I read something that indicated all you need is one relay as well? Thanks in advance.
For me it removed all additional relays because I run low wattage devices. 1 gps, 2x Powerlets, 2x LED aux lights. Total current draw could be handled by the relay in the fuse block with ease.
It depends on the current draw from you lights. The limiting and deciding factor of the "relay or no relay" question in your aux light circuit is the switch. Will your switch be happy running the complete current draw of the lights through it? The use of a relay reroutes the main current draw of the lights so the switch sees a minimal draw. Switches that see a high current draw tend to heat up and fail over time. I always protect my switches by putting a relay in the circuit.
Maybe not all fuseblocks are equal... Mine has a relay in it and I rely on that for current isolation from the switch. If it didn't have a relay, there would be one added for sure.
As said above, relays protect switches. If you have a 15A load but a 5A switch you need a relay. 15A load but a 15A switch no relay required.
Generally speaking a relayed controlled fuse block only controls one item. Whether you are managing 'switched power' (only have power to the fuse block when the bikes ignition switch is turned on) or a single item - it only controls that circuit. So if you set up a fuse block to handle multiple items and ran that power through a single relay - all items coming off of that fuse block will be powered up as soon as that single relay gets power. I don't know if that is what you are asking... Edit - I just reread what I wrote... It's kind of confusing - but I'll leave it up to see if it helps... Sent from my Samsung Note 3
Yeah I understand what you are saying. I don't want both sets of lights powered as soon as I turn on one set via a fuseblock with one relay. Thanks for al the feedback. For now I think I will just run two sets of lights with two relays and one three way (or 4way if I can find one) switch. I have nothing else coming off my battery terminal other than the main lead. and the bike already has two factory power outlets so don't need more of those.
Honestly don't know, it came with the bike. Looks like garbage but works great. Open, exposed terminals with a relay on an epoxy coated PCB inside of what looks like half a project box. Relay good for 15A and I'm nowhere near that in load. Since it powers stuff I want hot with the ignition, I'm good to go. I figured I'd have to replace it but it's been there for well over 35k miles (bike has 70 and I bought it with 36). Next one will be one of those nice computer controlled where I can adjust current capabilities discreetly.
Have we forgotten fuses? While relays allow switching of loads too high for the switch, a fuse should be used to protect the circuit in the event of an overload.
I use a Fuzeblock which conveniently has an internal 30A relay. Been 3 years now and thing has never failed me. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/
Nope didn't forget fuses. Question was I have a fuze block do I need relays. I answered the relay part because the fuses are already in place.
What bike are you doing the wiring job on R1200 or older? Is it one of the newer canbus system bikes? If it is you may find your power ports won't allow enough amperage draw to power heated clothing or an air compressor if you ever need stuff like that. I would suggest just biting the bullet and setting up a nice fuse block for future applications. Do the job right the first time and save yourself a lot of re-work in the future when you decide you need to add stuff. Try and keep the number of individual leads off your battery to a minimum. A spaghetti mess of wiring off the battery is a recipe for grief. Fuse blocks also keep all the fuses in one spot instead a bunch of individual in line fuses spread out all over the bike where ever you need to run a circuit. Keep things organized from the start, it pays in the long run.
Yep Its inevitable. Especially if you like to tinker. Can bus power sockets are limited to 5 amps - heated clothing is definitely higher than that. Currently I have a cheap NAPA old fashion fuse block in place (I have a PowerPak 60 sitting on the shelf for a later date). Items that I have hooked up to my fuse block: HID low beam Fan for the oil cooler Two powerlets for heated gear Cycle pump outlet GPS My LED's are ran through the original GSA Aux lights wiring which the canbus does not control - so everything is compatible there... Everyone loves to individualize their bike and a fuse block is in there somewhere.... Have fun. Sent from my Samsung Note 3
+1 Fuzeblock has a relay and can be used as switched (ignition) on or constant current. No additional relay needed. Not the prettiest solution but effective and hassle free.
Most fuseblocks use the relay to power the entire output of the fuseblock. You may still need additional relays in individual circuits to protect switches from higher amperage draw accessories that will stress smaller diameter wiring and switches. Other fuseblocks like the powerhub I installed split the circuits between "ignition on powered" circuits and hot all the time circuits based on the position of the fuse. These powerhub type fuseblocks still do not provide protection to small diameter switched circuits. This is the power hub I used on my '13 R1200 GSA
