There are two gaskets that go between the header and the rest of the exhaust. Nothing more than a couple of thin walled aluminium tubes that cost $20 each. I just couldn't get myself to pay that, even though the ones on the bike are stuffed. Have any of you guys had any luck making their own. How hard can it be?
The two rings on mine were cut on a bevel between them; look like so they'd tighten as you put on the exhaust nut. But I'd like to add the question of whether it matters which one goes in first. Thanks. .
Sounds like he's talking about a reducer, perhaps from the header to the stock mufflers....I am thinking beercan aluminium would work Buy lots of beer for $40 and make muchos parts!
These are what he's talkin about, the price seems to have gone up. I think I remember payin about $4.00 each a year ago
When I replaced these on my GS, it was a major PITA... I had to trim them for legnth as well as reeming them out with my cylinder hone to get 'em to fit.... Not looking forward to putting the news ones I have for my G/S in
I am serious about the beer can... great shim material, aluminium, etc etc. And there are bennies on the side
It matters, but I cant recall which way goes on first, offhand. One's flat faced and one's angle cut. How does a spacer like that get stuffed, anyhow, banging on it?
Methinks Putts is talking about the tapered collar at the header/head connection: In that case it is like the tapered nylon washers on the plumbing beneathe the sink: the wedges get driven together when the finned exhaust nut starts pushing them into the space between the head and header. The beer can shims are in a different place: where the header pipes meet the mufflers, since they are different id/od's. Then you can put a nice clamp over the whole thing and voila! Done. Dont forget to drink the beer first.
If memory serves, the one w/ the split goes against the head, and the solid one goes against the nut.
If you are talking about the header/muffler union- JC Whitney sells a 3 piece universal exhaust reducer for like 4 bucks.
Yep, that's the part. I've got some aluminium now, but no time to play around with it. I've just installed my window, now I've got to weatherproof it, scribers etc., before it starts to rain.
Go to your local home supply store, or better, an independently owned one, and but a foot of aluminum roof flashing cheap and works great. Robert
I used a galvanized steel nipple for electrical conduit from Home Depot. Split it with a dremel and then fitted it. About $2.
Yeah, but I live on a small island in the Pacific. We are lucky just to have a BMW dealer. I forgot to add the gaskets to my last order from overseas. Even USD 10 is a lot of money for a strip of bent alloy. I just paid a small fortune for an airbox breather valve, absolutely outrageous.
So, Kokopelli, being the lurking type, I just had to google Tamaki-makau-rau. Learned a little something, today. Small island in the pacific, you are indeed lucky! South Island, best ride, indeed lucky! And BMW dealers are not always the best bet for airhead stuff, though you undoubtedly have more than your share of fine BMW's for some fine motorways................and a dealer to match! You really can make up some sort of shim if so inclined. Alumin(i)um can be found, or purchased, in many thicknesses. Whilst we know that any proper beer should not come from an alumin(i)um can, they can, indeed, be found. Or, as suggested above, you could also find some roof flashing. The beauty of alumin(i)um is that it is malleable. If necessary, cut several "rings" to make up the desired thickness, and have at it!
