A BC Buell goes South

We had a pretty lazy day, Mexican style. I went shopping for a new charging cable for my phone, did a bit of grocery shopping in a huge grocery store with very few items, and visited with Steve and Lisa.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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In the afternoon we headed down to El Centro for a while to check out the action. The town center was busy with vendors, people visiting, and children playing. It was great.<o></o>
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That night we grabbed a cab to a restaurant they knew for supper.<o></o>
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Steve and Lisa<o></o>
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I had spaghetti. Its been a long time since I had spaghetti. It was a Mexican version of Bolognese sauce, and man was it good. We went out to catch a cab and watched the dogs playing in the street.<o></o>
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Headed back to the Hotel, and when I paid the cab driver, I asked him if the fare was 40 pesos ( I knew it was 30) and he told me, no, no, it&#8217;s 30, only 30. I gave him the 40 and told him the extra was his propina. You gotta like honest cab drivers.

Got back to the hotel, cracked a couple of beers and started Bsing. Its funny that Steve and I didn&#8217;t know each other when we were punk assed kids. He lived for a while in the same area I did, and did all the same stupid crap as teenagers. I would tell a story of some stupid assed thing I had done as a kid, and it would remind him of something stupid he had done, and on and all night.<o></o>
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In the course of the night he told me he had to fix his panniers, as the were bent slightly and didn&#8217;t close tight. I grabbed my jack, and we went to work.<o></o>
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Mexican bodywork<o></o>
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The plan for the next day was to get up early, hit the carwash and head on down the road. That all happened as planned&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230; except the whole &#8220;get up early part&#8221;<o></o>
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Car wash<o></o>
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Said goodbye to Steve and Lisa, and promised to keep in touch on our travels.(They are 7 or 8 months into a RTW and in absolutely no rush to get there)<o></o>
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I headed off on great roads, and came to the aduana (Customs) building just outside of town. I pulled up, gave him my papers, got photocopies, gave the guy the copies, no problems, except that it was real loud with all the traffic going by and the fellow was real soft spoken. I could only hear about a third of what he was saying, and I can usually only understand about a third of what anybody is saying, and the third he was saying wasn&#8217;t the third I could understand. Finally and older guy comes over, speaks louder and simpler, and I could understand what they wanted. Then the older guy, in spanish, tells me that he can&#8217;t allow me to enter Mexico. Crap! "Why not?" I ask, and he laughs, and the other guy laughs, and I grab my heart, tell him I don&#8217;t want to go back to Guatemala, and I laugh. Funny funny guys!!<o></o>
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I head off down the road, and the roads are great. No potholes, no tolls, little traffic, and great scenery. Only nowhere really to stop for a break and take pictures, so I tried my hand at a few left handed, on the move, action type pictures.<o></o>
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I look at my map and decide that Juchitan de Zaragoza looks like a good place to look for a room, so I ride into town. I see a hotel sign just off the highway, near down town, and it looks like a real busy street, with cops directing traffic and the whole area jammed with taxi cabs. Hmmmmm&#8230;.. pull up into what looks like a traffic jam of taxi cabs, the street is impassible, there are taxis parked in every possible direction&#8230;&#8230; and no cab drivers in the cabs. Hmmmmm. I pull up as far as I can go with reasonable riding, and a cab driver directs me past some cars. There is room for my panniers, but just. I squeeze by a few more, and that&#8217;s it. There is a bunch of guys standing around, so I talk to them a bit, they try to see where I will fit, and nope. This is as far as I can go. No one offers to move their cab, so I am stuck. Hmmmm.<o></o>
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A young fellow offers me a glass of aqua ( its stifling hot out) I thank him and tell him I have water. So I figure I will just have to wait the traffic jam out. The guys are all friendly, and asking me about the bike and where I am from, but there seems to be a common consensus that I should maybe keep going if I can. Hmmmmm. I ask a guy what is going on with the traffic, and he rambles on something, but all I catch is what I think is the word &#8220;pausa&#8221; (break) That doesn&#8217;t make a whole lot of sense, but I figure I can look up the word I thought I heard later&#8230;.<o></o>
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The guys tell me I that if I can get my bike up on the sidewalk, I will be able to get past the traffic. The one guy moves a small motorbike that&#8217;s kind of in the way ( not his) and I can get my front tire on the sidewalk, but didn&#8217;t hit it hard enough to pop the back tire up. A couple of guys push me, and I am up.<o></o>
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Off I go to find a room&#8230;. And I rode all over town, and couldn&#8217;t find a hotel. I also didn&#8217;t see any taxis running around, which was kind of weird.<o></o>
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While riding down one residential street, a guy on a scooter passes me, and the hollers over there is something wrong with my lights, they aren&#8217;t working right. I stop, take a look, and another fella tells me, &#8220;yeah, only one headlight is on.&#8221; I explain that one light is for high beam, and one is for low beam, and they aren&#8217;t both on at the same time (It confuses cops in Canada all the time, too)<o></o>
The guy doesn&#8217;t really believe me, but oh well. I ask him if he knows where there is a cheap hotel around, and he offers me to come to his house if I need to sleep. Thanks you, but I will look for a hotel (It&#8217;s the first time someone has offered me a place to stay)<o></o>
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I carry on, can&#8217;t find a likely looking Hotel, and head out on the highway again. Maybe there is a hotel there. I ride past the original road I took into town, and there is even more traffic backed up, and I look to the right, and on the right hand side of the intersection there is a fresh burned out car. Huh..??..<o></o>
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I ride a few more blocks, and right in the intersection is a burnt out motorcycle&#8230;&#8230; hmmmm. I ride another block&#8230;.another burnt out car. This can&#8217;t be good. I give up on a hotel, and I head to Tehauntepec, where I had been before and I remember hotels there.<o></o>
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I stop at the rest stop, pull out my handy dandy dictionary app, and look up words I thought I had heard from the taxi guys.I thought maybe I had the word para(for) or pero (but) but that wasn&#8217;t quite right, and didn&#8217;t make sense. I looked up &#8220;paro&#8221;&#8230;.. and it means &#8220;strike&#8221;<o></o>
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I had ridden right smack dab into the middle of a labor strike, that at some point had come to burning cars in the street. You don&#8217;t see that everyday J<o></o>
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I got a room in Tehauntepec, saved myself $8 by getting a room WITHOUT air-conditioning, and as I write this, its 31C outside, and way warmer in my room. $8 doesn&#8217;t seem like a lot of money right now J <o></o>
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Muchas Gracias, amigos.
It has been a while since I had any kind of real conversation in English, but I thought I was doing pretty good.

Might have been the beer....................

I am now in Veracruz for a day or 3. I ain't never been in any ocean that didn't start with a "P" before, so I might have to get my feet wet tomorrow.

Good luck on your adventure, keep in touch, and maybe see you again on a different continent somewhere.

Gracias.

Pasado mes de Enero, yo voy a Zihautanero y es muy bonita. Ahora yo subo la costa del golfo de Mexico, pero muchas gracias.

I hit the road at a decent hour, and there was no sign of striking Taxi drivers riding though Juchitan de Zaragoza, and the burnt up cars and bikes had been cleared from the roads.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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The roads were in good shape and looked like they could be Canadian roads.<o></o>
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Except of course the different vegetation.<o></o>
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Once I hit the State of Veracruz border, the roads changed, and I had to once again be on the lookout for potholes and slow moving traffic.<o></o>
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It was getting pretty warm out, so I found that if I was getting uncomfortably warm, and I stopped for the occasional 5 minute break on the side of the road, when I got back on the road, the wind seemed cooler ……. It worked for me, anyhow J<o></o>
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One of my many breaks<o></o>
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I got on the toll highway, and holy cow, they ain’t cheap. It worked out to about $26 to go 250 kms, and the road wasn’t much better than the free roads in Chiapas. It kind of kicked the crap out of the budget, but I did make good time J<o></o>
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Rolled into the city of Veracruz, and I wanted to check out the ocean. I had never seen the gulf of Mexico before, so I tried to get to the beach. It’s not as easy as the maps would have you believe. I ended up in some really poor part of town, but off in the distance I thought I could see water…..<o></o>
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I finally got my bearings and headed off towards the malecon, and found a hotel, right across the road from the ocean, with air conditioning, a phone, a pool, and LOTS of hot water for 300p a night.<o></o>
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Golfo de Mexico<o></o>
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I spent the rest of the day walking the malecon and enjoying the air conditioning in my room.<o></o>
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Veracruz is a pretty big city, so the next morning I hopped on my bike to have a look around. I got on the divided road in front of the hotel and pulled a U-turn at the next intersection. Now, some intersections have “no U-turn” signs, and some don’t, but most everybody just ignores the signs and turns where-ever. I, on the other hand, try to watch for the signs and drive accordingly, just in case. So, green light, very little traffic, no sign saying “no U-turn”, so away I go.<o></o>
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Motorcycle cop pulls me over. Crap. I have done nothing wrong, but I can see what’s coming He tells me I turned on a red light. I tell him “no, it was yellow” (it was actually still green). He tells me I can’t make a U-turn there. I point and tell him there is no sign. He tells me I pulled around too far and went into the breakdown lane. I told him “no I didn’t”. Then he comes back to, “you can’t make a U-turn there” and there is a u-turn spot further down. I ask him why there is no sign, and he shrugs. Crap. He is going for the no U-turn. So he sits there for a while, waiting for me to say something(play the game), and I don’t, so he as asks me for my license, I give it to him, and he tells me he has to hold it to guarantee I pay my fine. That’s ok, I tell him ( I have another one in the hotel room) He sits there for a while more, waiting for me to say something, and I don’t, so he goes to his top box and gets out the ticket book, and explains what it is. I ask him where do I pay the fine (I am still not playing the game) and he tells me at the municipal police station. I ask him where, and he doesn’t want to tell me. He tells me again he is going to write a ticket, and I say “OK”, but he doesn’t start writing. I wait, he waits, I don’t say anything, so eventually he says that he can help me if I want to pay him now (There it is!!) I ask him how much, and he says 10 days wages for a cop. (he is letting me know they don’t make much money) I say how much is that, and he says 500 pesos ($38) I tell him I don’t have that kind of money, and he immediately says ½, 250p. I tell him I don’t have it. This goes back and forth for a while, but he is stuck on 250. I offer him 150. Nope. I ask him if they take credit cards at the police station. He says no, so I ask him if there is a bank machine nearby, and he was less than comfortable taking me to a bank machine. I put on my best “Oh crap, what will I do” face and stare off at the ocean for a bit. I look at him and tell him, sadly, that I wanted to go to the ruins north of here, and I only have enough for that, gas and food and would he take 100p.(under $8) He agrees, and now the only problem is getting a 100 peso note out of my wallet that is full of money. Just then a car pulls up, a lady asks him something, he walks over to her, and I take the opportunity to pull out his money and snap his photo with my phone.<o></o>
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I figured he wasn’t going to be into posing for me J<o></o>
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He comes back, passes me my license as I pass him the money. He pockets the money without even looking at it, and explains once again that I can’t tell anybody. He didn’t know much English, but he knew the word “discretion” (it’s actually very similar in Spanish) He shakes my hand, once again reminds me not to say anything to anybody, but if I get pulled over again to say “Si, diez alpha” or something like that, and I shouldn’t be bothered again (I think).<o></o>
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He buggers off and I go directly to a McDonalds for free WiFi and post his picture on facebook J<o></o>
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I head off to look around town some more, being very careful of road signs, check out some stores, and a better beach down by Boca del Rio<o></o>
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Good mordida story Brian! Same happened to me in Veracruz and it ended on the same amount 100 pesos! I was going the wrong way down a 1 way street to a hotel about 20yds. He was nice to me and lead me to a cheaper hotel after I payed the 100 pesos!

Brian, great ride report. I'm really enjoying it.

Several years ago I was a tourist in Mexico. I was walking alone one day when a local police car pulled right into my path. The officer, and 3 others without uniforms, jumped out and surrounded me. The cop asked for my wallet. He looked at my I.D and then gave my wallet back, then ordered me into the back of the police car. As the cop drove he would reach into the back seat, hand open, palm up. I was driven around until the moment he had all my money. Then they let me go while they joked and laughed.

And when I tried to report it to the local authorities, you wouldn't believe the laughter.

But that was several years ago.

Sin Dudas

Muchas personas en Mexico piensen turismo es malo porque de cartels de drogas,pero la corupcion tambien es malo de tourismo.

no quiero hacer un photo con su cara porque yo no pienso el esta alegro

Thanks, I am glad you are enjoying the RR

That sounds like a bunch of pretty crappy cops. I really do believe what comes around goes around, so they will get theirs in the end. I hope they didn't get too much money from you.

Starting today, I no longer carry much money in my wallet. I am stashing the majority of my money on my body so if they see in my wallet, they won't see much.

I tried the "need money for food" thing on the cop because it works on pushy street vendors. I think they see a gringo and think we have lots of money(usually true), but if they think we are poor as well, and have to watch our money for food, maybe they can relate and back off a bit. Its a theory I hope I don't get the opportunity to prove or disprove

I decided to stay in Veracruz another day and have a better look around. I headed out before it got too hot, and walked towards downtown.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I hung out for a bit in one of the town parques<o></o>
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A guy sleeping with what looked like all his worldly possessions.<o></o>
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Headed down to the wharf.<o></o>
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I didn’t really have a plan or direction to go, so I was just kind of wandering around and came across this<o></o>
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Baluarte de Santiago<o></o>
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I headed back to the hotel for a bit of bike maintenance and to hang out in the air conditioned room.<o></o>
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I headed out for pizza later, and had lots of fun practicing Spanish with the workers in the pizza joint. There was a bunch of young kids working there, and I was the only customer. I commented on how I had a lot of help, and they thought that was pretty funny. Then they had a bunch of laughs counting how many people were helping me. They kind of got into a bit of a fun argument as to whether there were 5 or 6 of them serving me. They were pretty giggly kids, even the muchachos……. I guess kids are kids in any language J<o></o>
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I got up relatively early to hit the road, loaded the bike, and asked the staff if they could move the vehicle that was parked in my way. The parking was pretty tight, so the hotel guests were asked to leave their keys at the front desk in case their vehicles needed to be moved. A young hotel worker comes out, runs around to find the right keys, finally gets the right keys, and asks me to get in the vehicle to move it out of the way. Ummmm….. OK, I guess so……<o></o>
I re-park some hotel guest’s car, and hit the road.<o></o>
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Hotel parking<o></o>
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I fuel up, find the right road, am cruising along minding my own business, and guess who pulls up beside me, says hi, and wants to chat? The cop from the other day. I guess he thinks there was absolutely nothing wrong with what he did the other day, and wants to be my friend. He rides beside me for a while, asking me how I am and where I am going. He asks if I went to the ruins the other day, so I tell him no, I didn’t have enough money. He wants to talk, but I am not really into it, so he rides with me for a bit, tells me to have a nice day, and roars off. Go figure.<o></o>
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I rode good roads, bad roads, toll roads, free roads and saw lots of little towns. At one point, I saw this sticking up out of the hills.<o></o>
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I looked but didn’t see Richard Dreyfuss crawling around anywhere.<o></o>

Just missed ya Brian. I was in Vera Cruz Monday night on my way north. Sorry I missed ya.

Harlingen Texas, I am in Harlingen Texas, not Harlington.......

When I rode into Tampico and was looking for a hotel for the night, I saw this big assed hotel sticking up on the skyline.I usually ride into a town, park, and look around for a hotel, and figured this hotel would be a good starting point. I parked in a &#8220;no parking&#8221; zone in front of the hotel, looked in, and saw this.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Just for kicks, I thought I would go in and see caunto cuesta. 580 pesos (about $44) a night? I figured that once I was in the states, I wasn&#8217;t going to find a lot of luxury hotels for $44, so I said &#8220;I&#8217;ll take it.&#8221;<o></o>
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I had a great night with air conditioning, hot water and dependable internet.(for $44 bucks it had better have all the luxuries) J<o></o>
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I had heard that it was best NOT to stay near the northern Mexico border, so I got up early to head out for Texas. The night before, Tampico was a super busy town with lots of traffic. At 7:30 am, not so much. As I wanted to make a mile, I stayed on the main roads. Not the best roads for looking around and seeing stuff, but great for making time. The roads were in good shape, with wide shoulders to ride on when people were passing in my lane (a normal occurrence here) and they didn&#8217;t weave through the down town core of every little town I came to.<o></o>
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I rode pretty much straight through, and only stopped a for a couple of rest breaks<o></o>
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About 60 miles from Matamoros, just as I was wondering where were all the military check points, I rolled up to a pretty big one. They were checking everybody, and there were peoples belongings strewn all over the &#8220;check vehicles&#8221; lanes at the pullout. I had been expecting a big checkpoint near the border, and here it was. The guys were really friendly, checked in a couple of my bags, and then wanted to chat about where I had been and what I was doing. I headed out, and about 30 miles later there was a police checkpoint. They didn&#8217;t want to check my bike, but again the guy wanted to chat. He was from Juchitan, and wondered if I had been there. I told him I had, and assured him that it was the nicest part of mexico, and that I liked it so much there that I stayed an extra night. I didn&#8217;t bother telling him that I got caught up in the middle of a taxi drivers strike there or that I couldn&#8217;t find a decent room and had to go to Tehauntepec to find a room J<o></o>
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I got to Matamoros, and it was HOT out. Got in line for the border, and it was backed up all the way through residential areas.The traffic was moving really slow, and I finally got to where I could see the Mexican side of the border crossing, but I was unsure where to go for customs (it&#8217;s not that obvious) <o></o>
I pulled out of line, rode around a small block, and the security was directing traffic back to town. Crap. I stopped and asked a guard where was the aduana, and he saw my import sticker, and moved some pylons, lifted a chain barrier for me to go under, and directed me to la aduana. Sweet. Got my bike checked out of Mexico, and I asked where was the immigration so I could check myself out. He points to the line of traffic, says that way, so away I go. The traffic was moving really slow, and I got to the toll booth (no kidding, you have to pay toll to leave. I am assuming it was to cross the bridge over the Rio Grande) But&#8230;. I don&#8217;t see where I check myself out of Mexico. I cross the Rio Grande (It&#8217;s not so Grande) and eventually pull up to the US border. Hmmmm<o></o>
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I talk to the border guard, he runs my passport, asks me a few questions to check the answers against what I had said when I entered the states, no red flags, so he wants to chat. I tell him about travelling in Mexico and Guatemala, he tells me about the Australians he met who were doing a RTW, he said he wouldn&#8217;t want to do it on his Harley, all in English. Cool!<o></o>
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I go to leave, and, because I had been starting my bike so much, it wouldn&#8217;t start. Crap. I roll into the &#8220;search vehicles&#8221; area, they come out to see what I am up to, and a couple of young border guards agree to give me a push. They very patiently explain to me how to bump start my bike, and I want to tell them, &#8220;yeah, I&#8217;ve done this before&#8221;, but I kind of needed their help, so I keep my mouth shut (a practice I have found to be useful with border guards and police officers) <o></o>
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Bump, and away I go, hollering thank you over my shoulder.<o></o>
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But, I still haven&#8217;t checked out of Mexico. I hope that doesn&#8217;t present me with difficulties in the future.<o></o>
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I ride through Harlington, and see a &#8220;motel 6&#8221; with a big sign advertising how cheap it is, but I figure it&#8217;s still early, I should try to make a mile. Just then I look ahead of me, and see a horrific looking black sky and just then lightning bolts start hitting the ground. That motel just started looking real good. I turn around, head back to the hotel just as the skies opened up into a torrential downpour.<o></o>
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The first thing I did when I got to my room was pour a glass of water&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. from the tap&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; and drank it J<o></o>

Sorry I missed you, Len.

There is a good chance I will be in Nova Scotia in the not too distant future. If you are there, I'll look you up.

When leaving from Mexico to the States by road I have never cancelled my Tourist card, I always cancel the TVIP. The 1 thing I always miss when I leave Mexico is the food.

JAJJJA food ?????

Si la comida! La comida de Mexico es mejor que Los Estados y Canada!

I wasn’t in a rush to get going anywhere, so I hung around in the hotel and made some mother’s day phone calls with my Magic Jack app.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Rode north for a while, and just about the time I was thinking it might be nice to start looking for a pullout for a break, I see this.<o></o>
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A rest area! I had forgotten about rest areas! Flush toilets and running water and……. A pop machine. I bought a coke and sat for a bit watching the cars go buy. I went back to my bike and there was an older fellow looking at it. I got to talking with him and he was from Wisconsin, heading for Houston, and he was pretty impressed I had ridden all through Mexico, but hadn’t I been raabed? (Raabed, what the heck is raabed? Oh robbed?) I told him I had no problems in Mexico, except the cop who shook me down for 100 pesos.<o></o>
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Turns out they were going to Houston because they have the best cancer clinic in the USA, as his wife had terminal cancer. What do you say? I told him that hopefully they can buy some more time with the clinic, and he sadly said he hoped so. I am not the world’s most spiritual guy, but I told him not to underestimate the power of prayer. I wished them luck and they told me to stay safe.<o></o>
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I headed off down the highway, and noticed there were lots of wide open spaces.<o></o>
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I got to Robstown and took a look around. It’s a pretty nice little town just out of Corpus Christi. I talked to a few people, and they were all amazed that I had ridden from Canada, then even more amazed I had ridden through Mexico, and survived. I met this one young fellow who asked me for directions. He was playing loud rap music in his car (apparently you don’t turn the music off when you get out of the car) and looked like someone out of the movies. Sideways hat, loud clothes, strong accent. (His name was Morris, Pronounced Moooorees.) He thought it was so cool that I had ridden my bike all this way, and I visited with him for quite a bit. He was from Texas, lived in California for a few years, and was back in Texas. Before he left, he wished me luck and told me to stay safe.<o></o>
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A guy in a car started talking to me at a stop light. He liked the bike and thought I was a long ways from town. He too was amazed that I wasn’t killed or worse in Mexico J <o></o>
We sat at the light talking after the light had turned green, and the cars behind us didn’t seem to be in a rush and didn’t honk at us to move. Gotta like it (we did eventually get out of their way)<o></o>
As he pulled away he wished me luck and told me to stay safe J<o></o>
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I was feeling the cost of being back in the states, so I looked for a place to camp. Freecampsites.net showed a place just out of Robstown, so I checked it out. I had a bite to eat and this guy came over to visit, and promptly took a crap on my kindle J<o></o>
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The signs showed I needed a permit to camp there, so I asked a county Sheriff who was driving by where I got one from. He said town hall, but it was closed weekends. Crap. He told me it would probably be ok to camp there anyhow, so I did. As he drove off he wished me luck and told me to be safe J<o></o>
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I LIKE YOU APRECIATE THAT !!!!!!!