I think the JD kit from TT includes the new bowl screws. Figure out which main jet and needle clip you're going to use before starting. +1 to loosening the subframe. Remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom 2 to allow it to pivot for a little extra room. I removed the air filter and duct taped the intake closed to keep the baddies out. Remove the snorkel, make a 3"x3" cardboard template and transfer it to the top of the airbox with sharpie (I like the silver for garage work ) Clamp a razor in some vice grips and heat it with a torch. SLOWLY cut out the opening with a sawing motion reheating as necessary. Use the blade to clean up the edges for a perfect 3x3 square. Vacuum out the airbox. If you're not an expert, remove the carb and take it to a well lit clean area (not the garage floor like I did). Rotate it while it is still attached to the rubber boots to get to the throttle cables and do the same when reinstalling. I always hate that part. Disassemble it in a shallow pan to keep the pieces together. Don't let the spring on the needle holder go flying. If you replace the idle screw with an extended one keep track of the microscopic washer and o-ring on the end and don't let that spring go flying. Clean and blow out all the passages while you're in there. Check the float height and reassemble. Set the idle mixture and idle air screw using one of the documented methods. Wheelie out of the garage and into the street cheered on by your buddies who have been drinking beer in your driveway under the pretense of helping.
HID should be 35W, so I don't see why not! Don't know whats the power of the original bulb, but I think it's the same or higher! Sorry to hear about the crash... Always loved the way your DRZ looked like.
I've read that the bowl screws always get mangled because they're JIS, not phillips screws. They're a special type of Japanese scew that can be identified by a little dimple on the head. I'm sure they're less likely to strip if you use the correct driver, but they're a little hard to find outside of Japan.
the JD kit comes with them. or at least mine did. (the kit was the JD005...ordered directly from JD. they have allen wrench heads instead of the phillips--or JIS--or whatever they are; look like phillips--heads.)
I am no expert on HID lighting by any means, however I would go with the Trailtech unit over the baja unit just for the slimmer profile. The HID draws less than the Halogen unit you are currently running. I am not familiar with the wiring specifics though. Someone more familiar with HID will need to chime in here. Linky here... http://trailtech.net/8in_race_lights.html
Nikolic, Thanks so much for the reply. Thank you for the compliment. Getting that baby right back out on the road. You are in Serbia? Can you find me on Facebook as Nicole Stavro Espinosa. It'd be fun to be friends, and to all others who want to connect. My best, Nicole
New to me, just picked it up 2 days ago ....... Is there any chance someone can PM me the list of "Have to do mods" so I dont have to look through over 600 pages?! Took my new ride out for a little ride today, and OMG gotta say I have a new love in my life :)
I did a lot of research on JIS spec screwdrivers & these are the best that I have found - Vessel http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/megadora/view-all-products.html None better. Period.
imho, the only real "have to do" mods are, given that you are riding off road, armoring it up: 1. a real skid plate. the water pump and other critical parts are exposed as is. a good skid plate will protect them. 2. case savers. these are covers you glue on the stator and clutch covers. the covers are made of relatively fragile aluminum. they need to be protected from having the brake lever or shifter pushed into them. also, there is a little sharp edge/small hook on the back of the shifter. take the shifter off and round off the edge with a file. 3. radiator guards. the radiators cost $300 a piece and are not well protected as is. they need aftermarket impact protection. the unabiker version is very popular and has served me well. 4. aluminum handguards (with or without the plastic part). these save your hands and levers from trees and your levers from being broken when you drop the bike. you should also do all the "loctite fixes". there is a write-up over on thumpertalk about them. if you search this thread for "loctite fix", i'm sure you will find all you need to know as well. another popular mod but not a must-do, called the 3x3 mod, is to pull the snorkle (in the S model you then also cut a 3x3 hole in the top of the airbox, but on your e-model the hole is already 3x3 so you just pull the snorkel. and then rejet the carb to match. this improves throttle response and smooths out the powerband). doing this made a big difference on my S model. i don't have any experience with the effects on an E model...they have different carbs, so...
Am new to this thread and would appreciate advice on mod's for my DRZ400S for a planned trip to Morrocco from UK. I currently have an 18 litre IMS fuel tank but cannot see how the fuel sitting forward of, and below, the fuel tap is going to reach the carb! Anyone have experience of this type of problem? Without some sort of fuel pump it looks like the DRZ with the Safari tank a little further up this thread, would have the same problem. Is it worthwhile fitting a lower front mudguard to increase the exposed frontal area of the rad's for cooling efficiency (I am anticipating heat!). And finally, is it worth lowering the gearing from stock - I think not, to help with fuel economy, but more experienced persons than me may know different. Thanks in anticipation of your help. Regards, Steve.
I've never heard of anyone documenting that cooling is increased with a lower fender. Might help, but then again, aero is unpredictable, so might not. If you have the S model with the cooling fan, I doubt you're going to have any cooling issues. Optimal gearing is entirely terrain dependent. The stock S gearing is a compromise between slow-speed trails and acceptable RPM on the highway. For most, it is probably the best compromise. Morroco doesn't sound to me like an area likely to need lower gearing, but I really don't know what you're planning on doing with the bike. - Mark
I had the same thought when I bought the Safari tanks. When you're just cruising on the road, you probably will get pockets of fuel in the 'wings' of the tank. But if the bike is moving around/offroad, I've found that they empty out & the fuel goes to the tap.
How much weight on an E subframe?<!-- google_ad_section_end --> So I think I finally have my 04 E model sorted out. Rode it over to some of our local trails last weekend, about 40 road miles each way, and then 20-30 easy trail miles. Easy because this is my first real dirt bike. Now that it seems to be running strong, I want to explore my options for doing longer trips on it. I have been keeping an eye out for an S model subframe, but keep getting beat out by quicker folks I have two questions really, one, how much weight can I realistically put on one of those "E" specific racks? All my gear is lightweight backpacking gear and I figure a full load will not weigh more than 30lbs? I could prob move some of that up to some tank panniers. Is anyone carying that much on an E subframe or am I destined to putting the S subframe on?<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig -->
Yes u can carry as much as 30lb if ur rack is well designed. I designed mine to carry @ least 25lb or little more i was sick & tired of carrying stuff in my bagback and get exausted z first 75 miles off-rd. Freind of mine is an artistic welder put it together for me and it end up working better than i thought. If u go back few pages(post# 8983) i posted some photos of it being build. Tank bags is also a plus i use them as well for 2/3 days ride.
I'd guess 30-lb is within reason, but less would be better. A lot depends on your use of the bike... do you attack washboards or slow down? Do you like pounding through rock gardens? Is this a bike to trundle along with and enjoy the scenery or are you attacking terrain at 9/10ths pace? I've ridden with guys who subject a chassis to more abuse in five minutes than I do in a year. I'd run it awhile and see how it holds up, keeping a eye out for cracks. - Mark
After my bike (XR600R) got stolen a year a ago my wife promised me new toy. I waited for a year and one day... So here I am, back on the dual sport '02 DRZ400S. She is in good shape and not too worn out (still under 4k miles). I just re-jetted her for altitude and put Tonn's skid plate too. I am very happy with her so far... feels lighter than XR (except when I put her on the stand - it's as heavy as XR then :) ). I really appreciate easier handling - I think I will learn more on her... The bike feels very manageable - actually I would say she feels quite small - I am 6'2 and I can sit on her with my feet flat on the ground... so I started to think maybe previous owner lowered the suspension... He mentioned something about this being his wife's bike... So the question is: What's the length of the original link in rear suspension of DRZ400S? Yeti
Hey I'm 6'2 too and can flat foot my stock DRZ just barely, if that helps. Not sure how to check to answer your question, I'm sure someone else knows. Congrats on the bike, though
