Really?! :eek1 Crap! :huh This seems like something that can happen over and over again, even if you replace the bearing,nilos ring and spacer.... Here's the link to the microfiche http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ktmtwins/KTM_OEM/KTMDB.asp?Type=13&A=570&B=17 I think the bearing is ok because of the nilos ring?
Oh another question...are the stock tubes for the bike HD? I swapped them out for HD tubes I bought, but I really couldn't tell the diff. Yeah, I'm dumb. Either way, the stock tubes seem pretty decent (Pirelli).
Stock tubes aren't HD unless there was some kind of change in their spec. There is a big difference between the stock tube and HD. Very apparent in comparison. But if you didn't notice...
It's worst then you think ... Each and every CPU has his own assembler. Piles of manual to read. One of many good reasons why assembler disapeared except for very low level routines. Nice motor support ... Well done. Do you rebuild those motors that often ???? Is your bike still under warranty Paul Jr
Sorry for the delayed response as I was riding in the Lincoln National forest (NM) last week. I had one of the early threads about the 690 fuel pump issues. My my fuel pump problem seems to have been solved by installing a CA Cycleworks pump. My fuel pump stoppages occurred at all temperatures and altitudes and were very intermittent, sometimes running perfectly for more than 500 miles. It never left me stranded and would always eventually start running again. The first time it happened, I nearly ran down the battery trying to restart. I later learned that it would not start until the fuel pump prime sequence occurs (which you can hear when you turn the key on). Just wait till you hear the prime, then it would start. The pressure regulator is a passive pressure relief valve which is not connected to the ECU. It returns excess fuel to the plastic pump housing for cooling purposes. There is (from the 690 wiring diagrams) one connection of fuel pump power to the ECU to switch/prime the fuel pump. I do not believe there is any other relationship between the ECU and fuel pump other than turning it off/on/prime. The TuneECU folks tell us the ECU must be reset before the 15 minute idle and throttle calibration are meaningful. There is a TuneECU switch for this as well as an automatic reset when loading a new map. Disconnecting the battery may also do a reset. The ECU (from the 690 wiring diagrams) have connections to the following devices: Lambda sensor Front wheel speed sensor Evap valve SAS valve Injector Ignition coil Combo instrument Throttle position sensor Intake air temp sensor rollover sensor side stand sensor Accelerator position sensor Ambient air pressure sensor Engine coolant temp sensor fuel level indicator crank position sensor clutch switch Manifold absolute pressure sensor map select switch I have not yet disassembled my OEM fuel pump but I'm guessing it will look ok like yours did. It is possible that the ECU is turning the pump off because of some software glitch (I know something about computer science, being a retired CS prof) but, if so, it doesn't seem to happen anymore to the bikes which are running the CA Cycleworks pump. So the mystery continues, but I'm happy my bike runs like gangbusters. I actually trust it again (which is easier for me to do because mine never left me -- just slowed me down)
Spacer should be able to be removed, but mine, on the old bike, was stuck last time I tried too. I have that same indent from the screwdriver in my soft ring too now.
nice job, eagle eyes! hahaha! i was pissed when i did that. it didn't take much, did it? i was like "wtf!!??" you live and learn,and there's no serious damage. it just took me by surprise and i've never seen a nilos ring before on any other bike i've had. it must be a ktm thing. i had to google what it was. good info and here The same problem is with blackSP's bike, and that's an 2012. So you were once able to remove the spacer?
The carb rebuild I had planned for the afternoon was dragging a deer out of the woods this morning so I ended up with options. Since the bike started right up last night, thought I'd see what would happen today. I've got an hour long town loop that does what it can. No dirt but would at least let me run it a bit. Like a champ, it was. I thought certain Santa shimmied down the exhaust and gave me a firmware upgrade last night while I was sleeping it off. Fifteen minute idle reset, again. Ride was cooler today, temps were similar (high seventies) but overcast and less stop go. Stalled for first time at end of ride, fan was running as I waited at a couple of lights. Let it sit back in the shed - 5 mins for 'train time' Did start but rough, wouldn't hold idle, needed gas. So - temps seem to matter - out of the blue, maybe. Given y'all's posts, my attack order is: Injector clean. Battery - maybe low volts? - oem @ 4 years. CA fuel pump. ECU. Taxi! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/G1sFO965Ms8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Day after <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/86-TcvBj9wY?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I hate to bring this up...but. Which lightweight battery is working out the best now and where to buy them? I am going crazy reading about Shorai and Shorai problems. I need one, pronto.
Yeah, I was pissed too when I did it. That thing bent like it was made out of putty. I used VERY little pressure. It used to wiggle out without much trouble at all. I suspect mine has a groove worn in the spacer that is catching on the dust seal. I'm betting if we check a service manual, we are supposed to lube it everytime we disassemble the rear wheel...
I think you've got an electrical problem. Either a short somewhere or bad connection. Have you checked out the plug lead, mine was acting up like yours a while back so I took the plug connector off, cut 10mm off the coil lead and put it back together, ran fine after that...might be worth a crack
don't know what everyone else is using but I repaced my battery with a motobat http://motobatt.com/ works well and well priced.
Thanks for all the help. I'm setting the bike up for rally use and need to open up the cock-pit a bit after I fitted a Scotts damper. That required fitting the bar in the rear position to centre it over the steering stem. Now the bars are too close to me when standing. Also had 3 knee operations, so a slightly lower peg set-up will be better than an adjustable riser solution.
Yeah, you ought to lube it and get the grime out... I'm at a lost as to how I'd be able to apply equal pulling force on all sides of the spacer, without mutilating the rubbing bearing or nilos ring (only $7,btw).
I used a small blunt punch from the backside of the spacer and just lightly tapped it at an angle (in the groove between the spacer and the bearing), alternating sides. The spacer slowly walked out without gouging/scratching/prying/damaging anything.
Keep in mind.. IIRC, the rubber dust seal underneath has a space between it and the bearings. If you are going to clean behind the spacer, you will probably have to remove/ replace the dust seal to do so..