Hey Blunozr Great Read as per usual. Have you decided what the plan is eg. Bogota to ? The weather is starting to turn up north with Rain in the forecast which as you know is real early for NS. I put the Big Grey Pig into the shop today so it is ready to go in case of an early spring. Stay safe! YK
Wow! Great update AND great educational session. I'd heard of Suriname before but didn't know it was in South America. I just Google Mapped the heck out of that area. Thanks Len! Safe Travels!
No joke, there are not a lot of tourist roaming around G-town. What I did notice about Guyana is that it is another hidden jewel that you never here about... at least the rainforest/savannah is anyway. I wish I had more time to spend there but I have to get to Medellin by the end of the month to meet a buddy. I'll take a look at time but I think I will head straight to Columbia from southern VZ. I plan to go back up to Santa Marta later in March and if the offer is still there I may take a cruise to Caracas then. Yeah, I'm gonna fly the bike to Miami from Bogota. Another run at CA doesn't look like much fun although I would like another shot a Mexico without my adventure training wheels. The cargo cost to MIA from Bogota is less then the cost to Panama City so it just make more sense. I will ride down to Key West (Dirtybones' route) and work up the coast to Laconia, NH. Thanks buddy. It was a beautiful spot framed by two other beautiful countries. I'm glad I did the Guyana's loop.
When I was a kid my sisters, brothers and I had a set of encyclopedia's that I would spend hours leafing through on cold winter days. *On the pages I saw images from the Amazon, the rain forest and the colourful animals that roamed the area where I rode. *Today I was reminded of those books as the colourful birds that used to leap off the pages were flaring out of the jungle as I rode past. <!--more-->I was off shortly after 8AM and I snapped a few photos of the older buildings as I left town. <img class="alignnone" title="Old building in Georgetown, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1677.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Old building in Georgetown, GY <img class="alignnone" title="Old architechure in Georgetown, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1678.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Old architechure in Georgetown, GY I started my ride south first through small roadside villages then through the jungle stopping only for police check points guarded by young, informally dressed soldiers with AK-47's. *They would ask for my documents, look over the bike and then suddenly get chatty and ask the typical questions about how fast it would go and how much it costs. I reached the town of Linden in the mid morning and stopped for an egg ball and a coffee at a roadside shack. <img class="alignnone" title="Looking over the start of my ride in Linden, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1679.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Looking over the start of my ride in Linden, GY The regulars hanging around spoke about a Brazilian riding a big bike two weeks earlier but commented it was not commonplace to see people travelling by motorcycle. The dirt section started immediately after leaving the town of Linden but other then the potholes it was quick scenic riding. <img class="alignnone" title="Nice mix of sand and clay on the Linden-Lethem road" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1683.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> A nice fast mix of sand and clay on the Linden-Lethem road An hour in I stopped at a little fuel station to top up and took a few photos of the animals that they had *in the yard. <img class="alignnone" title="Little monkey having some chow at a fuel station in Guyana" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1681.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /> Little monkey having some chow at a fuel station in Guyana <img class="alignnone" title="Mackaws at a roadside fuel station in Guyana" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1682.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Macaws at a roadside fuel station in Guyana It would be the only photos I would get of the colorful Macaws that I would see several times that day. *In fact the photos of the animals at the filling station would be the only ones I would get as most appeared for a few seconds in front of the bike and disappeared in the thick jungle moments later. From the filling station south the road slowly started to deteriorate. *The potholes got larger and deeper and the clay started to turn to mud. <img class="alignnone" title="Thick jungle on the Linden-Lethem Road" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1686.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Thick jungle on the Linden-Lethem Road The riding remained quick despite the conditions and I stopped only for the checkpoint at Marbura Hill. <img class="alignnone" title="Marbura Hill Police checkpoint in Guyana" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1684.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /> Marbura Hill Police checkpoint in Guyana <img class="alignnone" title="Intersection in Marbura Hill, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1685.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Intersection in Marbura Hill, GY Leaving Marbura Hill there was little in the way of signage to let you know you were going in the right direction save for a few rusty, faded markers. *I could make out the name Lethem so I was comfortable that I was on the right road. *That said the ever increasing potholes had most of my attention and there could have been flashing neon arrows in the trees but I wouldn't have see them. <img class="alignnone" title="Pothole on the Linden-Lethem road" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1687.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Pothole on the Linden-Lethem road About an hour after leaving the police check point I arrived at the Kurpukari Ferry crossing. <img class="alignnone" title="Kurupukari Ferry crossing on the Linden-Lethem Road in Guyana" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1692.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Kurupukari Ferry crossing on the Linden-Lethem Road in Guyana <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37060433?byline=0&portrait=0" frameborder="0" width="398" height="224"></iframe> The once an hour ferry would not leave with just a motorcycle on board so I had to wait two hours for another vehicle to arrive before I would be taken across. <img class="alignnone" title="Getting some sun and waiting for the ferry crossing" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1697.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> I really couldn't complain as the ferry was free for motorcyclists. The ferry pushed off just before three and took us to the south shore of the river to the next police check point. <img class="alignnone" title="On the Kurupukari Ferry" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1694.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /> On the Kurupukari Ferry <img class="alignnone" title="Rapids at the Kurupukari Ferry crossing" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1700.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Rapids at the Kurupukari Ferry crossing The riding picked up as did the animal activity as I passed through the National Park exiting about 40 kms north of the village of Annai with the approval of two more park wardens. It was about 15 kms before I reached Annai that without notice the thick dense rainforest ended abruptly and opened out to the savannah. <img class="alignnone" title="Savanah in the Rupununi region of Guyana" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1701.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="377" /> Savanah in the Rupununi region of Guyana It was a short ride in the crisp open air to the Rockview Lodge. *I stopped in to try a cold beer but learned their generator was down so I decided to camp at the Oasis just on the edge of town where I had a nice meal and watched the sunset across the plains on the mountains in the distance. <img class="alignnone" title="Sunset at the Oasis in Annai, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1702.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Sunset at the Oasis in Annai, GY
Economically, shipping from BOG to MIA makes sense. But, FWIW, the CA borders are a lot quicker after you have done it a time or two. I too was going to ship to the states from Bogota, but while I was in Caracas, SSinVzla kept calling me a pussy and a quitter for not riding the bike all the way home. Because of that, I then saw the error of my ways, and decided to go for it. Its a pretty satisfying feeling knowing that you rode the whole enchilada, down and back. I'm happy that I did it. Just sayin. Maybe you need to stop in Caracas and have a few beers and a cigar with Silviu?
Very subtle. Planting the seed and calling me out. I'm beginning to think that you and SS in Vzla are working for the CIA and are going to have me riding north in a month and programmed to overthrow a small Central American country. The odd thing is I know what you are doing but I'm still considering the idea. WTF!
Man, I have some bad memories from Guyana. I was in a head on collision there while doing an Airforce mission in 1998, spent 26 days in the hospital after that one and lost a good friend. The pics of the mud bring it all right back. The jungle in the country is beautiful though, safe journey's Len.
By the way, spring is here Dana, was out on the KTM yesterday. It was Shirley's birthday, so I had to go for a ride in here honour....6 degrees and rain, but it was worth it.
I find it tough to strike the proper balance between riding and sightseeing. *In much of Argentina and Brazil you simply point the bike down the finely groomed asphalt and take it in. *In Guyana the wildlife, thick jungle, and immense savannah combined with the road conditions are proving to be another story. <!--more-->The hammock was swaying in the cool breeze when I woke and the sun broke behind a small rock formation near the campsite. *I watched it for an hour mindless of my camera till the sun hit my camp and the heat drove me out. *I rolled south and the great riding conditions had me racing quick to the horizon ahead. <img class="alignnone" title="Dry section in the Rupununi south of Annai, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1703.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /> Dry section in the Rupununi south of Annai, GY After the previous day in the thick jungle the plains gave me a feeling that I was barely moving. *I rode quickly and several times I would happen upon small bridges on the roadway that were hidden from view till the last moment. *The approaches were short and slightly elevated hiding the bridge and making the road appear further on. *After a couple times using only the far end of the crossing I backed off the throttle when noticing the bridges and luckily just in time. <img class="alignnone" title="Bridge on the Linden=Letherm road near Annai, GY" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1706.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Bridge on the Linden=Letherm road near Annai, GY About half the bridges were in this state and the other half seemed well maintained. *It was tough to tell what you were going to get until the last moment so I held back each time I approached. *On one occasion some good soul found it in their heart to make up a sign and while grateful I found the placement a bit flawed. <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37060917?byline=0&portrait=0" frameborder="0" width="398" height="224"></iframe> All the pieces I needed where there! <img class="alignnone" title="Lots of warning" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Guyana/IMG_1708.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Lots of warning. I crossed the border from Guyana to Brazil in the late morning near Lethem. *The Guyana officials were quick and got me on my way. *The Brazilian officials, in their typical hospitable way had coffee and snacks and chatted about everything under the sun with a big smile and lots of enthusiasm. *I could have hung out there for the day but the road was calling and Venezuela was a short two hour run north. *It was Saturday and I wanted to get into Venezuela, buy some insurance for the bike so I was free to ride when I wanted. I got stamped out of Brazil, again by fantastically friendly officials and drove the kilometre to their Venezuela counterparts. *The staff at this office was not operating on the same level as they were in Brazil but that was fine. *I got my passport stamped in a flash but 30 mins later when customs decided the line had grown long enough to say "next" I was told I needed to ride to Santa Elena to buy insurance. I knew this was the case and was ready for it so I rode the 12 kms to town and found that the office had closed early for Carnival. <img class="alignnone" title="The never open insurance shop" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1722.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="614" /> The never open insurance shop I did find a second insurance place in town but the only person who could write my policy didn't show for work apparently due to, you guessed it, Carnival! I was stuck at the border, stamped out of Brazil and only at a small town in Venezuela at the grace of the Venezuelan customs official. *I was told the offices would open on Monday so it meant a extra day in town but after the long haul I was happy to take a day off. *The tough part now was to find a room in town because of Carnival. *Fortunately another rider from named Christian from Seattle bailed me out and let me bunk in the spare bed in his room. *We went out for supper and a beer with Sarah and Tom who were riding two up on a DR650 before I headed back to turn in my funky laundry for a good wash. <img class="alignnone" title="Sarah, Christian and Tom in Santa Elena de Uairen, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1714.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Sarah, Christian and Tom in Santa Elena de Uairen, VZ I chatted with Christian for a bit, he let me in on some of the things to see in Venezuela and I offloaded some maps that I had been carrying around for some time now.
... stating what some of us were thinking to ourselves. Of course I have met Lenny and would have never thought of calling him out on anything for fear of seeing his Dark side
Quote from Lenny regarding the local bridges. You are a funny guy! Maybe that should be your new tag line ... Great update and know that everybody here is jealous of the trip your doing.
Hwy BlueNozr.When are you planning on hitting Laconia N.H.? I am just a short bike ride away,would love to meet up and show you some of the great roads around here!!
Costs less to Miami? No shit, really? That hilarious. A ride up the East Coast sounds like a dream. I'm originally from New England and miss it greatly. Though the weather here in LA makes up for it. Be sure to do the kancamagus highway in NH.
Nice update on Guyana! As long as I'm here in Caracas (in between business trips)... you've got free beer and an asado (or two?) with lots of good Scotch... Safe travels amigo.... Oh, and if you are into overthrowing a government, forget about CA, we need you here
No dark side here. It's all sunshine and livin' large. I was going to meet some friends for the first few days of bike week. I know it's a lot of chrome for a stinky overland rider but they are good people who share some common interests... bikes, women and beer. No joke at all. Just over nine bills to Panama City from Bogota and about eight and a half to Miami. I'm hoping to catch a Sox game on the way home before hitting bike week in Laconia and up to the Maritimes. They snow should be gone by then.
I've had the crap kicked out of me by more guys smaller then me then I have bigger one's. I'll make my move when papa is in Cuba on sick leave.
Santa Elena seemed to be a bit of a backpackers hub for trips to Roraima and offered little for my interests. *There was one attraction, the insurance shop I was interested in but it would not open till Monday. *So with an uninsured motorcycle and checkpoints all around the town I laid low and did my best to stay occupied in the small border town getting maintenance done and fuelling up for my exit the next day. <!--more-->Santa Elena is fine enough but I wouldn't have stopped if the insurance shop were open. *As well and no secret to anyone who has or is planning travel in Venezuela is that fact that the gas is insanely cheap. *I knew that coming in but hadn't quite got my head around the idea. *The European like prices in the "Guyana's" helped accentuate just how inexpensive Venezuela petrol is. Before heading to the filling station I stopped in for a couple of empanada's at a shop near the hotel and paid 30 or so Bolivar Fuerte for the tasty treats. *An hour later I would realize that two deep fried snacks, while tasty and satisfying cost me more then the fuel it would take to cross the country. *I don't know how they do it but for now I could care less. *Fill 'er up... with premium! <img class="alignnone" title="63 cent top up" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1721.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> 63 cent top up Here is a little link to give you an idea of what a Bolivar Fuerte is worth. <a title="The Currency Converter" href="http://http://www.xe.com/ucc/">http://www.xe.com/ucc/</a> To add insult to your next fill up wherever you are is the fact that for some reason I was able to buy Bolivars on the street at 8:1 rather then the bank listed 4:1 making this a 30 cent top up. Now I know I'm talking a lot about fuel but it is because there really wasn't much else to get my attention in town. *The two sights I saw were the front of the pousada... <img class="alignnone" title="Posada Michelle in Santa Elena, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1717.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Posada Michelle in Santa Elena, VZ ...and the inside of the little food court in the centre of town. <img class="alignnone" title="Food court in Santa Elena, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1720.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Food court in Santa Elena, VZ That said the break from the bike was welcomed and I managed to pick up a few items I needed, get a haircut and have my stinky riding gear washed before it walked away.
Cuánto? *I said with a disgusted look when the guy in the little highway town told me how much he wanted for a room. *Es*Carnivale! he said as I reluctantly paid his asking price. *Well, it turns out the room was a bargain in the small town of Guasipati on a night when the music and dancing started early in the night and ended early in the morning. <!--more-->It must be that I'm tired because the last few borders have been a real chore. *After waiting a day and a half for someone to show up sober at an insurance shop I finally rode out of Santa Elena with a policy and I was off to the border. *I jumped through a few hoops and made a second trip to town for a copy of my international driver's licence in Spanish for the picky Aduanas officer before heading northeast at about noon. I managed to put some miles down before deciding to call it a day near the town of Guasipati. *I rode into town, asked around a bit and was directed to hotel with a car park. *The price was a bit more then I wanted to pay but when I was told there was a big Carnival celebration in town I knew why the price was a bit elevated. <img class="alignnone" title="Pre Carnival square in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1725.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Pre Carnival square in Guasipati, VZ I know everyone is sick of the gas price talk but it is so cheap here that even the snow cone guy has a 7hp gas engine running his unit. <img class="alignnone" title="7 hp snow cone machine" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1726.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> 7 hp snow cone machine I got showered up, went for a walk and was surprised by what I found. <img class="alignnone" title="Young dancer in Carnival parade in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1727.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="614" /> Young dancer in Carnival parade in Guasipati, VZ <img class="alignnone" title="Young participant in the Guasipati Carnival parade" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1735.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Young participant in the Guasipati Carnival parade Things got started with a parade of young kids and their family members but as night fell the real party started up and just kept going and going. <img class="alignnone" title="More dancing in the Guasipati Carnival parade" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1736.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> More dancing in the Guasipati Carnival parade <img class="alignnone" title="Dancer in the Guasipati Carnival parade" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1733.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Dancer in the Guasipati Carnival parade <img class="alignnone" title="Dancer in Carnival parade in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1729.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /> Dancer in Carnival parade in Guasipati, VZ <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37378891?byline=0&portrait=0" frameborder="0" width="398" height="224"></iframe> I'm sure there were bigger, crazier parties going that night but the music, dancing and partying was amazing for this little town and I was welcomed into the mix. <img class="alignnone" title="Carnival in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1741.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Carnival in Guasipati, VZ <img class="alignnone" title="Carnival dancer in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1747.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="614" /> Carnival dancer in Guasipati, VZ <img class="alignnone" title="Party in the center square in Guasipati, VZ" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1760.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="614" /> Party in the center square in Guasipati, VZ <img class="alignnone" title="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1763.jpg" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1763.jpg" alt="Float judging in Guasipati Carnival" width="491" height="368" /> Float judging in Guasipati Carnival <img class="alignnone" title="Crowd gathering in Guasipati's Centro" src="http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/lenmacdonald/Venezuela/IMG_1767.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="369" /> Crowd gathering in Guasipati's Centro The party went well into the early morning but my camera only managed a couple of hours and I could only hang on a few more after that.