KLR for set up Interstate commuting

I have an '09 KLR 650 thats mostly stock. It's about time for new tires (currently tkc 80s) and I want something that will give me better milage on the highway. This being said, I still plan to ride gravel and dirt roads, and need something that can handle it. Is a wider front tire worth considering?
I am also considering changing sprockets to lower my RPMs at highway speeds. Should I consider a K&N air filter? How 'bout front fender mod?
My cummute is 100 miles round trip to work, 95 of which is interstate!:eek1
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Replacing the TKC's with more streetable tires will make a difference. I've run IRC GP-110's (good, but noisy. only last about 5K miles. modestly expensive) Avon Gripsters (great in the rain, lasted about 8K miles. more expensive.) and my new favorite for the street: Shinko 705's. These tires are inexpensive ($110 a set, give or take) quiet, handle like race tires, and so far have lasted longer than anything else. I used them on a 3,500-mile trip this Summer and they were fantastic. I got over 10K on both front and rear, and the front still had about 40-45% tread when I changed it. They will do gravel roads well enough, too, provided that you remember that you're on tires that are 80% street. Airing them down helps.

I tried the 16-tooth countershaft sprocket, but it just didnt' work for me. I live in an area that has a lot of elevation changes, and the taller gearing was just not right for me. That being said, I have gone from a 130/80-17 rear tire to a 130/90-17 rear, and that seems to be okay. The fact that I'm 6'2" and 260 lbs. probably plays into things here, too, as my bike has to work harder to get me through the air.

You'll get some strong opinions about K&N filters here. Personally, I don't like them, especially in dusty conditions. I have a Uni foam filter on my bike, and they're cheap enough to have a second one clean, oiled, and ready to install when you do your maintenance.

My bike is a 1995 model, and the front fender is different than yours. My stocker was a huge sail that would really make itself felt at highway speeds. I swapped it for an Acerbis Supermoto fender that is much better.

Hope this helps!

High end, Michelin Anakee. Tight arse Shinko 244's. The 244's are better in loose gravel and dirt but don't last as long as Anakee's but still longer than tkc's....

Metzler Tourance tires (non-EXPs)
16 tooth front sprocket
K&N Filter/rubber snorkal thing removed with mild jetting
Crank case breather mod
Doohicky
Thermo-Bob

Mine will do 70-75 all day

This info. is very helpful, and hope for more posts that are helpful as yours.
I'm also considering a jet mod on the carb, good idea? Anyone feel free to chime in on any thing you may think that may be helpful!

Thanks JSEARS ans Backmarker. I just read a thread about the 244s, sounds pretty good. Did they bump up the milage for the valve adjustment to 15,000 miles?

Not to threadjack here. But I would like to know what you guys that are more tarmac riders doing for the exhaust (end can). I'm rebuilding a KLR from the ground up. Just received the 685 kit and already have a FMF powerbomb header. My commute is all highway (405) 22mi each way. The bike will most likely never see dirt. Would like power but also happy neighbors.

You might want to remove/replace the OEM "hand guards" with something that won't flap in the wind.

The pre 08's have huge floppy guards. Every little bit helps.

The tires and sprockets (16t) will help you out the most as mentioned above. I rode with a guy that had the 15t stocker and I threw on the 16t, we did about 500 miles or so of interstate and he couldn't keep up with me. For interstate it's the only way to go at least on a KLR. I also use Twin Air filter and it works great.

For my Adventure touring setup I went with the 16 tooth front sprocket, Avon Gripsters (very good on gravel and in the rain too!), a KTM endro front fender and a Eagle Mike fork brace. I also use a tall Cee Bailey screen if I'm going to slab it or for winter riding.

Google the 22-cent mod and start there. It's easy, quick, and the results are pretty good.

Be mindful that the knobbier your tires are, the harder the engine is going to work for your speed, and the lower your fuel economy will be. I don't know if that's something that concerns you, but it will play into the while equation.

My bike has always run 70-75 comfortably with my big ass on it, and did so during our big trip. It had 31K miles on it when we started, and by the end of the trip I'd broken a ring and luckily made it to within 15 miles of home before the thing started running poorly. I installed a 685 kit a week later, and now the engine has quite a bit more grunt off the line, it will run 75-80 all day long with ease, and I have passing power at freeway speeds that did not exist before. Hands-down, the 685 kit is the single most useful and effective mod I've done to this bike. Just food for thought.

You've gotten some really good ideas already here. That's just another reason to love this forum and the great people who are willing to share. I learn something almost every time I log on.

I bought a Supertrapp from a friend and ran that for about a month, but it was just way too obnoxiously loud for me. I like my neighbors, and I have no desire to make them dislike me. I put the stock boat anchor muffler back on.
We are talking about a KLR here, and a lot of people have thrown a lot of money at this bike and not seen the kinds of power gains that they expected. The 685 kit will make a very nice difference.

Were I to buy another aftermarket can, my choice would likely be a Staintune, simply because it has a mechanical baffle that needs no repacking and will not blow it's guts out all over the highway as other brands have been known to do. That points right back to the whole "it's a KLR" argument, though, and I'm going to have a tough time justifying $500+ on something like that.

Thanks guys for all the advice! Great to have somewhere to go for answeres. Keep'em coming, I plan to keep this bike a long time! I'll be upgrading as part wear out, so everything goes here!

Used to run Metzler Saharas,then Mefo's but now have a set of Continental Trail Attacks on my '08. They are radial ply and work off road much better than you could imagine and are great on the street.

I ran Avon Distanzias twice. Got good mileage out of them, too...right at 10K, but the front was completely shot by then, and the rear had plenty of meat left, but had squared off pretty good. Those 244's sound like the way to go.

I'd add a T-Bob for better engine temp stability/warm up in cooler/cold weather, and 16 tooth CS as mentioned by others.

I also added a Happy Trails fork brace.

Thanks inmates, sounds like I will surely be doing the sprocket swap! The Continental Trail Attacks are quite interesting:eek1. I've wondered about these for quite some time.
How 'bout the 15,000 miles before the valve adjustment I read on another thread? I have just under 10,000 on mine, and still haven't done it. Am I messin' up?

A few mods to do that'll make the bike more livable if you haven't done them already... I've don't all these to my 09 with good results.

22c mod... basically richens your mixture a little. Super easy and makes a noticeable difference off idle. See.. http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41112&highlight=22c
Do the Doohickey! ...relatively cheap insurance.
..while you're in doing the Doo, check to see if you have the "hole of doom"... over machined hole in the side case that will allow one of the gear pins to shift out of alignment and chew things up if not fixed. See... http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67886
Thermo-bob it.
De-Californicate it. (remove all that emissions crap)
Yank the snorkel out of the air box, it'll help it breathe better.
Remove the side stand switch and clutch switch... they're just waiting to leave you stranded.
"Hurricane Mod"... makes the petcock a manual unit... removes the vacuum operated petcock internals, the only downside to this one is that you have to remember to turn your gas off, but it does remove a possible issue on the road.
Upgrade those sub-frame bolts! The ones from the factory are crap.

If you haven't done these then this'll get you started.
Enjoy!

C

Thanks Chugs! I'll be checking out the links. Appreciate all the input guys.I'm still lisnin'!

Not messin' up, but it runs better if the valves are at the larger end of spec

I do mine every 10k, the first few times needed more gapping than at 30k.

Guess I'll get the bike in the shop soon. How long will a semi-well maintained chain last?