I got rid of a 4.6 IMS because you can't get to a good portion of fuel in the left lobe, solid .8 gallon isn't usable. Anybody need some front springs? .49 rate, used in the forks on my 1150GS, just swapped out to .76's. I figured the .49's would be sacked out, but they're still right at spec length. You pick up and I'll trade for beer or something. Have to get $$ if I ship them...offered to the XRR threaders first. FM come Moanday.
I have both tanks and did not have trouble with the fit. Rumor has it that the earlier IMS tanks had a slight fit issue (???). Dave
I just did the petcock fuel line fix on my 4.6 IMS as outline in this post: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16398997&postcount=9307 working great so far. No more laying the bike on it's side to get that last .8 gallons!
Anybody need some front springs? .49 rate, used in the forks on my 1150GS, just swapped out to .76's. I figured the .49's would be sacked out, but they're still right at spec length. You pick up and I'll trade for beer or something. Have to get $$ if I ship them...offered to the XRR threaders first. FM come Moanday.[/QUOTE] If Pete passes on the springs let me know, I will need to do a susp. upgrade by the end of this riding season....
Alright, so per my last post, trying to get suspension sorted out. I set the race sag at just under 4 inches (95mm) and now static sag is way out of spec...like over 1.5 inches. The strange thing is - I'm about 95% certain the bike has the stock spring on it (yellow, no Eibach/Racetech markings, no other stampings I can see). I weigh about 165-170 in my underwear, so I should be right in line with the spring spec. What gives? Should I add some more preload to get static in spec (down to 3.75" or so)?
Your free sag is 1.5 inches and race sag is just under 4 inches? Right? That's about perfect, go for a ride.
OK bought a XR650R that sat for 2 years that has been motard, need stock links since he lowered her. He put a 102 mm kit in her and a hot cam stage 1 xr only exhaust with header, she has a slow jet of 70 and a main jet of 205. If I was to run down the road from 25 to 45 she acts like she is missing. No popping on decel and runs like a champ above 50. I know it has to do with throttle, is that in my needle adjustment.
First thing I'd do is remove carb and clean thoroughly with aerosol carb cleaner (spray in all holes and jets and allow to drip off so dirt is carried away as you spray. Once that has been eliminated I would check float height and only then look at jetting. Hope that helps
Im trying to remove my piggies heart but mr.honda won't sell me the lock nut tools fir the swingarm and I'm unable to make them right now, if someone has some to loan out or sell please message me, i want to get it rebuilt asap i daily ride it.
It most likely will pop apart without the tools. Getting the bolt out can be the tough part. Should have tools for reassembly. Made mine and got one on fleabay. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
You dont need the tool to remove the swingarm, just to install it. If you are careful you can tap the locking ring (outer) with a big screwdriver and knock it loose and use an impact to remove the other nut from what i recall. There are a few members here who have the tools, and on Ebay you can buy them from a guy in the UK. I think they are $50. A local member was nice enough to let me borrow his.
I'm considering upgrading to an Acerbis 6.3 from a Clarke 4.3. Will there be any mounting issues if I'm using Unabiker Rad guards? Is it still possible to change the spark plug with the tank on? How hard is it to remove the tank when you're on the trail? thanks for any info, Mike
I can't comment on the radiator guards and fitment issue with the Acerbis since I don't run any guards with mine. Removing the tank isn't hard. Re-installing the tank (whether in the field or at home) is a chore. The upper bolts are hard to reach through the holes in the tank. It's best to used flanged head bolts and use a T-handle or socket extension with a wobbly head. I'll have to double check, but I'm pretty sure the tank will need to come off to remove the spark plug from the motor.
Go to your local auto parts store and get a brake caliper tool. It looks like a cube with holes and various tits on all six sides. Two of the sides will engage the castle nut. It isn't the best, but it is only about $10.
Don't know about fitment but if you end up getting the acerbis and would like to sell the Clark I will buy it!
