Santa Fe New Mexico to Cinnamon Pass Colorado Solo F800GS

First off, a photo that a fellow ADVrider graciously emailed me. It's from the Timber Hill / Stoney Pass area of Colorado taken just after I broke my gear shift lever.

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TRIP STATS
776 miles total 50% dirt / gravel / 50% asphalt / 5 days / 4 nights
2013 F800GS running TKC 80’s, Excel rims by Woody, 18"rear
Konflict Motorsports Shiver Fork Conversion, stock rear shock set at 16 clicks.
Luggage: Kriega Overlander 60 soft luggage holding approximately 55 lbs on Touratech rack;
Ortlieb 49 liter Rack Pack holding approximately 22 lbs on Alt Rider Luggage Rack with Rok Straps;
Giant Loop Diablo Tank Bag
No cell phone service 90% of the time. Delorme InReach unit to track and check in.

The inspiration for a trip like this began 5+ years ago when I first stumbled on ADV Rider. Trip planning for this trip began several months ago. I was originally going to do the trip with a buddy who rides an XR650L, but he was not able to make it - so I opted to go solo as I am comfortable in the backcountry. The rains in Colorado pushed my departure date back and finally I took of on Monday, September 23.

DAY 1
SANTA FE - BROKE OFF MOUNTAIN in CARSON NATIONAL FOREST
NOTE: Santa Fe -El Rito NM on asphalt. Gassed up in Espanola. If I had waited 5 to 7 more miles, there was one last gas station at the intersection of HWY 84 and 285.
ROUTE: Took 554 up to El Rito and then took 44 out of El Rito (just after the ranger station) towards Vallecitos. Easy road, a few puddles from the rains. Met two Utards doing the CDT, one on a KTM 690 (I think) the other on a V Strom. At Vallecitos, hit 42 north about 4 miles to 111 also called 42. Took 42/111 up to 64 which is asphalt for 4 miles or so to FSR 421. Took 421 North up to 133 and camped about 2.5 miles south of 87 on the road to Broke Off Mountain.

The roads were easy and enjoyable with plenty of beautiful scenery. Only saw two motorcyclists and a few hunters the entire day. With a lot of rain, certain areas could be too muddy to ride. The further north I got, the roads became more fun and the views opened up.

FSR133 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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FSR133 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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FSR133 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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FSR133 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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FSR133 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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HEADING UP TO CAMP NEAR BROKE OFF MOUNTAIN / FSR 419 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
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CAMP UP NEAR BROKE OFF MOUNTAIN
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SIDIS ROASTING BY THE FIRE
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VIEW FROM CAMP
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DAY 2
BROKE OFF MOUNTAIN to PLATORO, CO
NOTE: Saw elk, the cows were calling last night and the bulls were replying. Coyotes howling up a storm. Beautiful night. Got a very late start because I was so unbelievably slow at packing. If I was with a group, I fear I would have been left behind. Roads were easy and beautiful up to the Cruces Basin Wilderness. After that, 87 became more challenging in places with extended large puddles (200 feet long), loose rocky steeps and a lot of 1st gear terrain...slow going.

ROUTE: 133 to 87, North West on 87 up and around Cruces Basin Wilderness into Colorado. HWY 17 to Horca and then Antonito for gas, then back to Horca and up 250 to Platoro. If I had known, I could have gotten gas in Platoro at the Sky Line Lodge. Best to call ahead and ask: 719-376-2226. They have great food and rustic cabins too.

THE BEGINNING OF FSR 87 CARSON NATIONAL FOREST NEW MEXICO
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CHECKING MY ROUTE ON FSR 87
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INTERSECTION OF FSR 87 AND 87A
87A goes towards Antonito Colorado as well as up towards FSR 284. I want to try one of these roads next time. I stayed on 87 and wrapped around the Cruces Basin Wilderness Area. POST RIDE UPDATE: I recommend going right here onto 87A and gas up in Antonito. I rode it last year and this route makes more sense. You can then take 17 to Horca to FR 250 to Platoro.
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ENTRANCE TO CRUCES BASIN WILDERNESS ON 572 FROM 87
The road is rough, but doable...dead ends at a parking area and trail head for the wilderness area.
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FSR 87 WAS STILL SMOOTH AT THIS POINT....
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STARTED TO HAVE SOME MUD PUDDLES
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FSR 87 NARROWS UP TOWARDS THE TOP
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HAD TO PICK MY WAY THROUGH AS THE MUD BOGS ON TOP WERE LONG
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GREAT VIEWS ON TOP
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FSR 87 HAS A FEW HUNDRED YARDS OF THIS LOOSE ROCKY STUFF UP AND DOWN
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GETTING CLOSER TO THE COLORADO BORDER
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AT THE COLORADO BORDER
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NEAR THE CUMBRES TRAIN ROUTE
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TARMAC TO HORCA AND THEN ANTONITO FOR GAS
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HEADING UP FSR 250 FRM HORCA TOWARDS PLATORO
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GETTING CLOSER TO PLATORO ON 250
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TOOK A CABIN FOR THE NIGHT AT SKY LINE LODGE IN PLATORO
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ONE OF THE BEST BURGERS I EVER HAD
....I'm a gluten free guy....asked for no bun...
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DAY 3
PLATORO, CO to LAKE CITY (after being spit out of Stony Pass)
NOTE:I loved the road after the reservoir up towards Stony Pass, it was beautiful and had banked turns, etc... but I have stock gearing and had to hit the steep rocky sections with momentum. Broke my gear shift lever almost at the top of the rocky section and decided to limp back down to HWY 149 and asphalt to Lake City.

ROUTE: 250 out of Platoro up over Stunner Pass to FSR 380 to HWY 160 to South Fork to HWY 149 to Creede, CO then approximately 10+ miles to FSR 520 to Rio Grande Reservoir towards Stony Pass (rejected and spit out of Stony Pass with a broken gear shift lever) back to HWY 149 to Lake City. Stayed at G&M Cabins.

JUST OUTSIDE PLATORO ON WAY TO STUNNER PASS
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SOMEWHERE ON 250 OR 380
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FROM 250 I PICKED UP 380 AND TOOK IT TO HWY 160
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I BELIEVE THIS IS CORRAL PARK FROM 380
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I slabbed it from where 380 and HWY 160 meet to South Fork and then to Creede. About 6 miles outside of Creede, I picked up 520 to Rio Grande Reservoir. I always wanted to see the headwaters of the Rio Grande.
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HEADING UP TOWADS STONY PASS FROM THE RIO GRANDE RESERVOIR
I loved this road....but would break off my gear shift lever and have to turn around.....
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STONY PASS ROAD FROM RIO GRANDE RESERVOIR
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THE ROAD STARTS TO GET A BIT CHALLENGING
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ABOUT 100 YARDS AFTER THIS PICTURE, I FELL AND BROKE OFF MY GEAR SHIFT LEVER
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I broke off a Wundelich gear shift lever that I really liked. Had a stock lever tucked under the seat just incase. I FORGOT to pack an allen wrench for the Wundelich lever, so I had to limp down in 1st gear. Met some cool guys from Oklahoma who were on a BMW 450 and a Super Sherpa and they helped me out. Thanks guys!!!!

I decided to head back out to the tarmac (HWY 149) and slab it to Lake City....Way back up the valley is the road to Stony Pass
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NICE RIDE TO LAKE CITY
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DAY 4 (the long day.....)
LAKE CITY - CINNAMON PASS - CBCDR - COCHETOPA PASS - CANERO PASS - LA GARITA - PLATORO - ANTONITO
NOTE: Knowing I had to be home friday, I got in as much riding as possible this day....I estimate it was about 227 miles, 90% dirt. I rode into the dark which I don’t like to do, but all campgrounds I passed were closed and by the time I was at Platoro, they were closed for the evening. Saw lots of deer.

ROUTE: Lake City - 149-30-3306-Cinnamon Pass and back to Lake City for gas. ( I was not sure if Engineer was open, or I could have made a loop.) Lake City-149 (for about 6 miles) to FSR 788 (north east) to KK14 to NN14 to Cochetopa Pass to HWY 114 for 3-4 miles to FSR 41G / 690 to La Garita to 38A to 33 to 112 to Del Norte to 14 to 330 up to Summitville to 380 to 250 to Horca to 17 to Antonito.

PACKING UP AT G&M CABINS LAKE CITY (Nice Cabins!!!)
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HEADING UP TOWARDS CINNAMON PASS
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I NEEDED TO MAKE A STOP TO ADJUST MY BOOT AND KNEE BRACE AND DUMPED IT...!!
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BACK ON THE ROAD TO CINNAMON PASS 30 TO 3306
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AT THE TOP OF THE PASS
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ON THE WAY DOWN
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I fueled up in Lake City, then Headed out on 149 for 6 miles to catch a little of the COBCDR starting on 788.
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I cut off the COBCDR and took Cochetopa Pass Road (N114) East to 114
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TOOK 690 SOUTH TO LA GARITA
I liked this road...it was not as well traveled as the other roads I had been on this day.
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Just after Canero Pass ( I think....)
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OPEN IT UP FOR THE STRETCH TO DEL NORTE ON 38A / 33
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From Del Norte, I took 14 to 330 to try and get to Platoro in time for a burger. By the time I arrived (8:45 PM) they were all closed up...so I pushed on. All Campgrounds along 250 and 17 were closed...so I pushed on the Antonito....what a LONG day!!!

DAY 5
ANTONITO - SANTA FE
NOTE: I was up at sunrise, the sky was blue, I had a mostly dirt route planned home and was excited to do it. My plans changed as clouds blew in very quickly and it started to rain. Locals told me it was supposed to snow, so I just slabbed it home on 285. In hindsight - if I was with two other riders, I think we could have chanced the dirt and been ok. I don’t think the rain was that much, but after the deluge we had the week before, I was not going to chance it. The F800GS rode like a dream on the slab and my wife was happy to see me get home early.

WEATHER COMING INTO ANTONITO
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Thank you to Greg Dee for the report he wrote up: To Moab for Ice Cream which helped give me the idea of riding up through Carson Natl Forest. Thanks to Hair for his updates on conditions in Carson Natl Forest and thank you to JR Wooden and Erebaek and other inmates for their help while I was getting ready.

Cheers,
Pangia

Links:
Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route Map by Butler: http://www.butlermaps.com/Motorcycle-Road-Maps/50/Colorado-Backcountry-Discovery-Route-Map
Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route Free GPS Tracks: http://www.backcountrydiscoveryroutes.com/COBDR
Konflict Motorsports Shiver Fork Conversion: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850957&highlight=konflict
Woody's Wheel Works: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145899&highlight=woody%27s
Kriega Luggage: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778304&highlight=kriega
Giant Loop Diablo Tank Bag: http://giantloopmoto.com/products/diablo-tank-bag/
Delorme InReach: http://www.inreachdelorme.com/product-info/inreach-smartphone.php

Pangia

Looks like a great trip. Good idea to have a spare lever.

There is a good reason they call it Stony Pass, much easier from the west to east.

Hope to make the next one.

Great write up. I been wanting to see how the fire affected the area around South Fork. I know that it was a very devastating fire. But the routes that we normally ride seemed to have escaped this time.

Hair - Thanks again for your report on 87 in Carson - I was concerned it would be miles of mud. I felt better knowing you had been there first... It was as you said, basically fine with a few challenges up top. All doable on a loaded F800GS. I could see how the area would be very challenging just after significant rainfall.

Regarding South Fork area fire scaring, I don't remember much (if any) fire scars near South Fork - there may have been fire scaring and I could have just missed it. There was extensive fie scarring along the Rio Grande Reservoir as I rode 250. As I recall, mostly on the North facing slopes on the South side of the reservoir. Also in a few places along 250. Looks like it was a raging fire.

Pangia

I noticed you're wearing a neckbrace with a Klim jacket. You like that setup pretty well?

I'm looking for a jacket to go with my Leatt too.

Well done A true ADV ride & solo to boot

This summer I wore the Leatt Adventure Enduro Jacket (link below) which fits over the Leatt Neck brace. I wore it on colder mornings or at higher altitudes. The sleeves zip off to make it a vest that vents well. The Leatt Enduro jacket works well in the 40 degree to 80 degree day (I live in a DRY climate, adjust accordingly for climates with humidity), over 80 degrees and I just stowed it away. (The Klim Badlands is too bulky to stow away). The Leatt Enduro Jacket is not water proof and I thought I should have water proof in Colorado. I also wanted more abrasion resistance (which the Badlands offers) for Asphalt. I doubt the Leatt Enduro Jacket would offer much abrasion resistance on asphalt as it is really an enduro jacket and seems a lot lighter fabric to me. I wore a roost plate (chest armor) under the Leatt Enduro Jacket. I tried various rain shells to wear over the Leatt Jacket, but the combo was clumsy.

I REALLY like the Klim Badlands Jacket and the Leatt GPX Adventure brace that I wore on this trip. The Klim Badlands vented well when I needed it, was warm when I needed it, feels like t offers excellent protection and was very comfortable. This will be my go-to set up for 30 degree to 80 degree weather. When adjusted using the spacers, the Leatt Neck brace fits over the jacket for me. I am 5'11" 170lbs and wear a Large Badlands Jacket. If I was a bigger chested guy, the Leatt Neck brace might not adjust out enough to fit over the jacket and the armor that is in the jacket. Best to buy the gear from a place where you can adjust it all and return if it does not fit. I may be selling my Leatt Enduro Jacket....not sure yet.

I wear the Leatt brace because I had an off (high side) on a WR450 a couple of years ago that was under very mellow circumstances, but resulted in whiplash vertigo....(that is what skinny necked guys can get when tossed off too many times). Vertigo sucks...really really sucks, so I am doing my best to limit my chances of it happening again. The set up works great for me. The Klim Badlands is an investment $$. PM me if you have more questions.

Pangia
Link to Badlands Jacket:http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/klim-badlands-pro-jacket
Link to Leatt Jacket: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/6/7/37269/ITEM/Leatt-Adventure-Enduro-Jacket.aspx?SiteID=Google_PLA7&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&kw={keyword}&gclid=CMuZv6Cx87kCFfBaMgodV1oAeg

There were times where it was just sooooo beautiful that I would just giggle and grin....still grinning now!!

Thanks!

photos and report! I like your ID... Pangia! One world!

Thanks for sharing Pangia! Nice report and great pictures!

Nice pics! I like the perspective, especially the motion blurring. Based on your second photo I will guess that warped image comes from a super wide angle lens such as on a GoPro or similar. Have not gone there yet myself but I do like shooting with wide angle lenses on my DSLR. If you were using video, did you pull the stills from the recorded video or did you manage to capture those shots intentionally?

I enjoy seeing the terrain you rode through - it gives me fodder for another adventure. I rode up to Salida last Saturday taking a scenic route quite similar to yours. It only took me 11 hours. Actually I only managed to get in about 2/3 of what I had planned. Even flying solo dirt routes take a really long time.

You know, if you had turned right at the Cruces Basin Wilderness sign you could have gone down to Antonito for gas and skipped all the muddy bits. But then that would have been less adventurous, no? I didn't have the cahones (or the time) to ride 87 all the way through solo on my big bike. I've only had to pick it up once and there were two other people helping me. Not sure I could do it alone, especially if it was lying downhill. I played it safe and steered clear of the mud - this time.

I liked seeing your images of the area around the Rio Grande Reservoir. I was up that way mountain biking sections of the CT back in late June when the fires were raging. Here's a shot from my camp above Spring Creek Pass:


I thought the Rio Grand Reservoir area was a goner for sure but judging by your shots it looks like it survived pretty well. The hills south of there are all match sticks now. I'll be back up there next summer to continue my pedaling fix ala Colorado Trail as I was run off by smoke this summer. We do live in a glorious part of the country. Don't tell anyone

Nicely done trip report. Thanks for sharing.

Nice report and ride!!

Great report! Even better pics, looks like a blast.

I'm curious about the route from Lake City to Lagarita. I think I know it but just want to confirm (from Cochetopa it should be CDR). I'm planning the CDR for 2014.

Well, I went back and re-read the LC to Lagarita route and I know it now (Los Pinos Pass and Saguache Park to 114, then dirt again to Lagarita.)

I grew up in Durango, lived many years in Gunnison and rode MOST of the roads around there. We used to do Stony from Silverton, take a 'short cut' from the Rio Grande Reservoir up past Heart Lakes and then drop down near the foot of Cinnamon outside LC, great road but a bit rugged for big bikes. There was some private prop near Heart Lakes, not sure if that is still open.

Forgot: GREAT RR, super photos!

Hi Greg Dee - Again, thanks for your ride report, To Moab For Ice Cream http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812669
it was an inspiration for my trip. Most of my shots are taken with a Go Pro mounted on my helmet at setting #4 or #5. I set the camera to shoot 1 frame every 30 or 60 seconds, downloaded a LOT of photos and then just picked a few I liked and deleted the rest. A few photos were taken with an iPhone. The blur (I am guessing) is a combination of low light and moving relatively quickly...I like the effect too.

Like you suggested, next time I will probably not take 87 all the way around and instead will take 87A towards Antonito. I also see another road that heads basically due North near the Los Pinos River.

Hope to meet you sometime on the trail.

Cheers - Pangia

TXPlants, Picard & Trail Boss - glad you enjoyed the write up, thanks for the . Now I just want to sneak in one more similar ride before snowfall....is it possible?

Pangia

Nice ride!!

Mc Russ: Re maps and routes....

#1 I like the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route Map by Butler as it shows the main route and hints at other options off of the main route. The route I took to La Garita is clearly identifyable on this map. The actual turn off that I took was not labeled with a road number, the sign simply read, "La Garita" and I went for it....Here is a link to the Butler Map: http://www.butlermaps.com/Motorcycle-Road-Maps/50/Colorado-Backcountry-Discovery-Route-Map

The GPS Tracks for the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route can be downloaded for free here: http://www.backcountrydiscoveryroutes.com/COBDR

#2 (This was overkill, but I did it anyway) I purchased this map of Colorado by Benchmark: http://www.benchmarkmaps.com/products-page/atlases/coloradoroad-recreation-atlas

It can be found at many stores and on the internet. I then cut out the pages of the area I was traveling in and taped them together to get a more detailed overview of the route. I see it going for $8 to $23 on the internet. It is NOT plasticized like the Butler Map is. Will not travel well.

#3) If you are 100% into the CDR (Continental Divide Route) rather than the COBCDR (Colorado Back Country Discovery Route) then I believe the tracks for that route are on ADV Rider here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108842

With any of these suggestions, keep doing your own homework (like you are) asking on the forums, etc... then keep in mind that plans change and just go for it and have fun!!

Hope that helps -

Cheers,
Pangia

Great report and pic's, looks like one I'll have to put on my list!