Loaded destroys a motorbike (1984 Moto Guzzi 1000sp Resto)

Where you at?

by the time loaded finishes this the world will have ran out of gasoline

Yeah, he was here a little while ago.

Just spent the time reading this entire thread. Very nicely done! Top quality!
Now, how about spending the time and finishing this masterpiece? You've made me a Guzzi fan.
Great work!

Unbelievable! I read the entire thread today. I almost didn't bother when I saw what you were starting with. I was thinking no way that's going to look good. Beautiful craftsmanship.

Fantastic project. I'd wanted a Guzzi ever since I didn't buy one for my first bike 25 years ago. Ended up with my boxer and that was good fun. We have a joke among our friends "we're so into motorcycles we don't even ride them anymore". When we all met we used to ride 20-30k every year, when we got serious into racing we rode 1/10th that and when that devolved into building the mileage dropped again. Then came kids. I have 6 bikes and not a one is rideable at the moment.

Look forward to more when you get there. If our house remodel and my garage build gets finished soon I'll start finishing some of these projects. Hell, my KTM has been off the road for three years and that was my daily rider. Well, if we finish the AWD soon I hope to have it back.

Good luck and subscribed!

Gregor

Read the entire thread today. Kind of heartbreaking that Loaded hasn't been able to finish his Guzzi. I understand though, life sometimes gets in the way of projects and his life sounds pretty busy. I am subscribed, and hope that someday he can get back to the project. What he has so far is one of the most beautiful bikes I have seen.

Namaste'
Doug in Kentucky

Dang ! I thought Loaded was up and runnin' again.

Made me look.

Er...Loaded, you geared for some more fabbin' ?

You got a following out here.

sakurama,

Did you ride your worked over blk / wht BMW cafe bike to the Corvallis Vintage meet at the Oregon Benton County Fair Grounds this May 2013 ?

If I squint real hard your avatar looks like the bike I drooled over.

If yours, sorry for the drool puddles on the tank.

Funny, yeah, that was mine. It was the first ride out of storage. I picked up a Guzzi so I've been lurking here looking for ideas for the Lemon. For sure doing the frame mods.

Loaded, any chance you'd sell copies of your tranny plates? I don't fancy making then on my manual mill.

Gregor

"Funny, yeah, that was mine. It was the first ride out of storage. I picked up a Guzzi so I've been lurking here looking for ideas for the Lemon. For sure doing the frame mods."

Thought so. Small biking world. I have a KTM 950 and spent plenty of time on your 950 post too.

Hey Loaded !
Whole new year to finish the f...ing thing .

More please this is looking awesome!

Did this build get finished? Just read this great build thread.

ugh, loaded putted an antware

To each their own, but when I see a 1000cc two-valve Guzzi the first thing which comes to MY mind, is a classic ENDURANCE racer, or in American terms a SUPERBIKE racer at the very least. This particular model has so much going for it in the first place, where all of the stuff you've stripped off the bike would be what everybody ELSE was looking for - I mean JEEBUZ, wouldn't there be even greater potential to lead some obscure salt-flat racing class with say ... the V50 MONZA for instance? The SP1000 has sooooo much potential for sooooo much else heck even just it's original stated purpose as a touring rig.

I only hope that once you're finished (BORED) with the land speed record and other corner-less DRAG style racing, that there's still some chance of putting the thing back together again as a proper ROAD RACER - I'm not saying the original equipment is what you're after but there'sa heck of a lot of awesome alternate running-gear to be gleaned from the slightly more modern Guzzi & Ducati road bikes, 'cause with the standard trickle-down of suspension & running-gear tech, what you see on the track winds up on the street some five ten years down the road, fifteen years at the most - or else it doesn't make it due to being deemed a "dead-end" liike a lot of the anti-dive fork tech, bolt-up composite wheels like Astralite (which are being produced once again) or Honda COMSTAR wheels or any of the stuff which used the awesome Akront "NERVI" center-flange bolt-up style alloy rims - Cast-Iron composite rotors or dished one-piece discs - A whole PILE of good stuff has been deemed obsolete when really it's just that they were more expensive - same deal with the wire-spoke wheels for that matter. Meanwhile all of the crappy TUBELESS ideas have come & gone when all you needed all along was aquarium silicone smeared onto a rim with bead retention ridges - From what I gather a lot of these older GUZZI cast wheels didn't have 'em, and thus are unsuitable for tubeless use whether you seal 'em up or not - unless you use the TU-BLISS system which would probably work given how damn SKINNY a lot of those older cast wheels were - First things first I'd be looking for a WIRE-SPOKE REAR HUB - the Grimeca composite bolt-up wire hubs are all available in new production from MOTOCICLI VELOCI MILANO - from there, I'd be after some lightweight alloy wire-spoke rims - I might actually prefer to go with a DRUM rear hub, guess I'd have to compare the weights and the cost of a good downsized rear disc for the composite rear hub, but the drum would be suitable for a mid-'70s Superbike style in any case, good to have those retro-fried vibes if you can get 'em for next to nothing maybe even save a few bucks while you're at it? I'd also be curious about any of the running gear from the V65 Lario based MX-ers the Paris-Dakar style machines. ANYTHING backward compatible to put a lighter weight rear disc brake wire-spoke set-up onto one of these bikes. OR a drum, either way - There are fantastic lightweight 40-hole alloy wire-spoke out there to be found 2nd-hand AND new production, NOS for that matter - my favourite for '70s authenticity & light weight, albeit without tubeless capability due to a lack of bead retention ridges, would be the "SUPER-AKRONT" aka "D" profile, found in 3.50x18" or 16", & far less commonly in 3.0" width with the total hen's-teeth Unobtainium 2.50x18" version being at the absolute top of my list for must-have items heck I'd lace it to a front drum if I had to. GORGEOUS stuff. And I'm guessing a 3.5" rim & 140-spec rear tire is about as wide as you'll get into one of these shaft-drive bikes anyhow.....

EITHER which way, these 1000cc two-valve Guzzi SP's are sooooo fantastic in Endurance/Superbike form. It'd just be a shame to NEVER see the thing turn a damn corner ever again!



-Sigh.

Another zombie resurrection!

Ha-ha. Hey - the THREAD might be "dead" but the SP1000 is an awesome bike - and as such the project is anything BUTT

I sure LOST MY SHIT when I saw that raked out salt-flat racer pic and all the stuff with the fucking huge air-conditioned trailers & shit - thank GAWD now I've dug back a bit deeper and found pics of the nearly complete resurrection!

Bike's got some fantastic stuff going for it - Though I've gotta laugh at the rear master-cylinder bullshit! Here I am sticking a GUZZI rear master onto my Honda! Ha-ha. Those old Brembo units with the integral bell-crank lever arm are ESSENTIAL to a lightweight adjustable rear-sets set-up! Albeit, the type like I've initially bought here with the integral RESERVOIR make for a really stupid arrangement where you can only mount the piston/cylinder in a horizontal position. But the LATER versions as found on the V11 California etc, with the remote reservoir? Those things should be on EVERY last damn motorcycle out there! Hell even on the drums, if only to avoid whipping up a complex rod & lever/pivot MECHANICAL connection - well, there's always a cable but yeah seriously with a DISC rear brake you really ought to check out the Guzzi Brembo remote-reservoir rear MC's for EVERY last damn bike on the road! Just look at how huge & heavy the damn DOHC-4 Honda rear-sets arrangement is, with the huge thick bell-crank pivot & the cast alloy bracket to hold it - that's some serious B.S. to deal with! Fix the integral bell-crank type and you've got options heck you can set it up as a pull OR push actuation. Move your pegs and/or pedal any damn place you please, adjust 'em with a classic-Honda style HIRTH-SPLINE adjuster, loosen up a bolt or two tighten it back up and you could have another ride with longer legs taking the place of the first rider, an FIM 24hr Endurance team with a 5'2" rider one minute, a 6'1" rider jumps on after the pit stop. OR more to the point, you can ride the "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" and lend it to your teenage daughter without having to build a complete 2nd bike for her - Or rather, let her ride it WHILE working on that 2nd DOHC-4 Honda based 'featherweight' better tailored to her weight & ergonomics etc.

Can't help but think of it, being that the TANK on this Guzzi is so damn similar to the polished alloy CB1100R tank on my bike - I'd bet yours cost a pretty penny more then, huh? Well - if and when the SOHC-4 Honda Starbucks Racer crowd catch on to the idea that you don't NEED the replica alloy tanks from the '60s Brit-Bike scene to outfit a CB750 well maybe we'll see a lot more of the CB1100R tanks, not just originals like mine but a decent REPLICA series - Flow-formed in mass production, torch & stick braze-welded, just like the originals.

DAMN though, if these two tanks don't look so very similar in the bare alloy?

Gotta polish mine more. Gotta finish the wire-spoke wheel-swap, if & when I finally score that '77-only Canadian-only POLICE-only dual-disc FIVE-bolt 40-spoke front hub off the scarely known "CB750P7-ii" - So I can utilize the Comstar wheels' ROTOR options - The long-term plan being the dished CB1100RB 296mm rotors on the Kid's 'featherweight' build with this here 39mm non-TRAC fork & CBX pro-link style caliper-hangers - meanwhile I wanna rebuild CB1100F/CX650T/GL1100/GL1200 276mm rotors' spiral pattern center carriers out to a 316mm diameter to pair up with the 43mm TRAC anti-dive fork off the '96+ ST1100-ABS-TCS aka ST1100A - Also got some Akront "NERVI" center-flange rims in 2.50x18" to rebuild a '79 CM400 spoke set with a dual-disc hub for a lightweight rebuilt COMSTAR wheel, pair that up to the 3.5x18" Super-Akront rim on the kid's bike, being that I wanna hide that under a Dustbin fairing anyhow, meanwhile the 985cc "Bol Bomber" (with the toaster style side-polished alloy tank & wire wheels, it's sort of an homage to the '65 Black Bomber - get it?) has two different versions of 4.25x18" Akront "TR" profile rims one with the Honda CB750F1 rear disc hub, the other set up for a FRONT hub with bolt-up cush-drive etc etc, and for the front there's a 3.50x16" Super-Akront plus in the wings a 3.0x18" un-drilled waiting for a PC800 Pacific Coast wheel core for a "faux leading shoe" fake DRUM hub, being that the GL1500 version I chopped up seems to require a spoke count in multiples of nine since the cast spokes turned out a lot more hollow than I had anticipated. The GL1500 version is dual 296mm stock but upgrades to 316mm with GL1500SE rear discs, meanwhile the PC800 "hub" wheel core starts out 276mm but upgrades to 296mm using rear discs from USA-spec CB1100F & VF1000F etc etc. But I suppose if we pull it off with the Kuryakyn "Ring Of Fire" rotor shrouds etc, the 41mm TRAC fork etc being the go-to upgrade for AMA Superbike style race-replica DOHC-4 Honda projects everywhere, that's a semi-respectable upgrade package right there. But the ultimate GOAL being the late model ST1100's 43mm TRAC with or without two RHS legs for dual-sided TRAC, and to that end I suppose I'd be willing to shell out on some custom discs heck maybe even heavily modified rotor shrouds to stretch that extra 10mm outward - There's always the CBX550F version of "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake drum hubs, but those are only 230mm discs in a ridiculously overweight hub with even heavier bolt-up conversion flanges - Whereas MY big idea makes for one very lightweight version of the same basic concept, with far far more capable brakes under an even better packaging. A huge pain in the wallet compared to the CBX550F version but here for once there's potential for a totally capable & appropriate front end suitable to the CBX six-cylinder based "Hailwood Replica" wire-spoke conversions. Of course, the simple DUAL DISC type hubs are a good option too. The CB750P7-ii front hub with CB1100RB replica rotors (Metalgear Australia, VERY affordable) would be the most lightweight front hub & brake ever PUT onto a Honda - the dished rotors are fully 50% lighter in the 276mm size so I'm expecting the 296mm version to be even better than that. The 'P7-ii front hub sheds huge mass from the hub alone but also cuts down the rotor mounting HARDWARE by upwards of 50% perhaps even as much as 75% less mass than the stock CB750K/CR750/GL1000 style side-to-side through-&-through shoulder bolts. Could be a FANTASTIC package, which I've never understood why Honda didn't utilize that twin-disc front hub on the DOHC-4 CB750K-'z/a'/'b/'c let alone the 296mm dished rotors - you could even have the CR750 aesthetic using '78 CB750A Hondamatic front rotors, as a "Stealth" mod. Meanwhile my Akront "NERVI" rebuilt 18" front wheel with those same CB1100RB dished 296mm dual rotors would make for one killer set-up on a '77-'78 CB750F2 Super-Sport OR a GL1000-GL1100 Gold-Wing, what HAVE you. VERY appropriate stuff for a DOHC-4 Honda, whether it's done in the wire-spoke form OR the Comstar version. Truth be told I'd love to have a pair of each!

Well WHATEVER - for the GUZZI I'd be searching for similar stuff. The wire hubs allow for options in rim widths vs rotor diameters, tot he point where you can match 'em up as either a lightweight OR heavy-duty version, ideally BOTH rolled into one, like the kinda stuff I'm talking about with my Honda. Heck with potential for such a sweet convergence of both factors, surely you can understand why I've sat on the 6-bolt standard version front hub for several YEARS now without completing this wheel-swap? Dunno WHEN I'll find that 'P7-ii front hub but if & when I do it'll blow some minds I'm telling you - Sooo much good kit out there for the vintage Honda set. Same deal with the rebuilt Comstar thing with Akront "NERVI" rims - I've got the 2nd-tier "2H-B" profile and that's 30%-ish less mass than standard D.I.D. alloy rims in the same size - if and when I find the "TR" version we're talking fully 45%-50% less mass and any width you could dream up meaning the '77-'78 CB750F2's would then become THE premier SOHC-4 Honda for Classic Racing. Then we'll see some Weld-Up HUB conversions ala 6pkrunner's CB900C Custom based wire-spoke CHOPPER which means the same rear end as the GL1100 and all of a sudden the GL1100 & GL1200 could be outfitted with wire-spoke rims too, and we'll see a lot more replicas of the original GL1000 Gold-Wing based "Doncque DLF-1000" and Rickman/Dresda "WING THING" Endurance racers - Suddenly the Guzzi & Beemer racers won't be the ONLY shaft-drive 1000cc-1200cc beasts out there on the track! HUGE un-tapped potential in '70s-'80s Honda Classic Racing - And just you wait until we see some shaft-to-chain conversions on the V65 Magna for an homage to the Czechoslovakian Cezeta CZ Type 860, or at the very least a V65 Sabre based pseudo-replica of the FWS1000/RS1000RW "Water-Whale" - between the RC-Engineering/Russ-Collins STROKER CRANK and big-bore kits, plus the WOLFE exhausts (just like on my "Bol Bomber") which were made for the V4 VF-series, it doesn't matter whether we're talking about the V45 Sabre & '82 vintage OR the '84-'85 stuff I'm serious these old shafties are far beastlier than the VF1000F Interceptor & VF1000R they're just waiting on the Magni MV Agusta slash Yam' XS-Eleven style SHAFT-TO-CHAIN CONVERSION kits and all of a sudden Honda pulls out the BIG GUNS -

Yeah, I realize there were shaft-to-chain converted GUZZI specials, but with the longitudinal crankshaft I hardly see the point. The VF-series with the transverse crank is HOBBLED by the shaft, we'd see a whole lot more horses out from the barn! Ain't just a GIMMICK is what I'm sayin'....

Some of the Honda projects actually spell out improvements for the GUZZI though - One of the DOHC-4 Honda nuts, "Melchiro" is also a Honda CX "Twisted Twin" aficionado, and he whipped up a CX650 based AMA Superbike replica style beast with a 4.50x18" or 5.0x18" Kosman-Industries weld-widened rear Comstar wheel & 160/60ZR18 tire - How to squeeze all of that into the shaft-drive swing-arm of the CX650 itself? Well he cut a patch from the shaft side right where the edge of the tire would have rubbed, and welded in a patch leaving a "dent" in the swing-arm which just barely cleared the shaft itself. BEAUTIFUL stuff. Wouldn't have thought ANY of that shit was possible, not the wheel not the swing-arm itself, nothing.

They ARE however, methods which would transfer quite nicely to the GUZZI - And that 1000cc Guzzi would definitely stomp the guts out of the CX650 (unless of course that's the CX650T TURBO we're talking about) You'd get WAAAAY more cool points for doing these same mods to a Guzzi. If we really wanted to beat the Guzzi with a shaft-drive Honda we'd have to bring out the ST1100 & ST1300 just like the GL1000-GL1200 series added the liquid-cooling & extra pair of jugs to beat the BEEMER shafties -

No really though, give that two-valve Guzzi an early 1970s "Telaio Rosso" vibe, with OR without the 4LS drum hub - it will stand head & shoulders above it's Japanese competitors throughout that whole "FORMULA 750" era - Unless of course we're talking about the TOO-SMOKE racers which have spent the past few decades figuring out how to stop burning holes through their piston crowns, and otherwise avoid blowing their engines all to hell. I wouldn't want to bring ANY of the '70s-'80s air-cooled inline four-cylinders up against a mid-'70s 500cc-750cc too-smoke triple. Wouldn't even bother trying to WIN anyhow. I'd be happy to do it for shitz & gigglez don't get me wrong, but if there were any $$$'s on the line I'd bow out with a shit-eating grin 'cause those things could SMOKE us even in the Classic ENDURANCE competition now - Well, the liquid-cooled TR750 type of stuff could make the 24hrs anyhow. SEEMS like the Bol D'Or Classic & IOM-TT Classic rosters list CB750's & KZ1000's, Guzzi SP1000's & Yam' XS-Elevens etc year after year. But there's a good deal of other stuff that'd just murder 'em if and when they find their own keys to longevity. Anything shorter, 500 miles heck even 1000 miles and the damn too-smokes would blow us out of the water - WITH all of the improvements they've made over the past few decades, that is.

Still wouldn't bother bringing the DOHC-4 to a serious level of vintage competition like that, though - Gimme the shot & the $$$'s and I'd be too obsessed with the V65 ideas, heck even the GL1200 based projects, it just wouldn't make sense to do it any other way. '82 V45 Sabre would be the earliest qualifier for VF-series Honda, but I'm pretty sure it would be allowed. If not that, then we'd have to find some way to squeeze the VF1100C/VF1100S engine in under the guise of an earlier prototype which would've stretched back as far as 1980 at best - Even so, even IF it wouldn't be allowed in official competition, if we Retro-Fried the V65 to just LOOK LIKE an earlier incarnation, we'd still blow some minds on the street with people wondering "WTF was THAT thing?" Ha-ha. Or at the very least, build 'em up to the best mid-'80s specifications but with a more Retro-Fried AESTHETIC using the wire rims & bubble fairing etc etc, and get all of the COOL FACTOR points while pulling up last in a late-'80s early-'90s racing class. EITHER way, it'd still be well worth doing.

I suppose what all I'm GETTING AT, is the two-valve Tonti-framed GUZZI spans that whole era just bookends so nicely the span of time I'm talking about right there, whether you wanted to build the SP as the Telaio Rosso giving it what, a 1971 or '72 backstory - OR give it some beefy early-mid '80s ENDURANCE style bodywork, running-gear, livery etc. Either way that same machine fits neatly into EITHER pigeon-hole. Just a wee bit of tweaking one way or the other. Other marques which changed up their game so much quicker, they leave you trapped in that one specific time-zone, not much option for a retro-fried race-replica.

So I'm just sayin' wind that clock BACK, is all. The wire rear hub itself ain't cheap, but like I say them rims are plenty affordable. I've paid as little as $50ea for super choice vintage alloy rims like the 3.50x18" Super-Akront. OR the same price for the 2.50x18" un-marked Borrani rims from AMF-era HARLEY rear wheels, which are drilled perfectly to suit a 40-hole dual-disc style front hub from any Japanese bike or Laverda or Guzzi what HAVE you. Match that to the new production Borrani 3.0x18" rims - The AMF-Harley version has the bead retention ridges so at least IT could be sealed up tubeless. It would look Hella period-correct, though at the same time they're somewhat heavy rims at least you'd have that OEM look. The Guzzi rear drum hubs seem to be a dime a dozen - not quite "free for the hauling" like SOHC-4 Honda hubs often are, but cheap like borscht all the same. So IF that's a feasible configuration I'd say JUMP on it. The front hubs are a little more interchangeable. The rotor-bolt patterns seem so very similar I'm betting you could use the SOHC-4 Honda (conventional type 6-bolt) front hub, and pair it to standard Guzzi Brembo rotors. Maybe even cut down the 296mm Honda rotors to 285mm to suit the Marzocchi fork & Brembo calipers - Then take any old speedo and GUT the bastard, run the wire from a modern magnetic speedo pick-up down a hollow cable sheath and pair it to it's own appropriate clock drive, just stick that under whatever clock face you like, have the vintage font & colour etc matched to new increments drawn up on any random PIE GRAPH program, pairing your chosen tire's rolling height & whatever ratio the new clock drive uses, modified by multiple magnets affixed to your hub or rotor bolts etc - My point being you needn't worry about the Speedometer 'cause all of that stuff can be FIXED. I'd be far more concerned with paying the right price for the hubs & rims and having 'em fit the correct rotors to match the fork, everything else past that point could be adapted without TOO much hassle. CHEAP-CHEAP-CHEAP though. Meanwhile for the rest of the bodywork, you could seek out a MAGNI type bubble fairing, though the DUCK style is often cheaper, and a BOX COWL would save alot of hassle & expense on the rear end and the seat, fender etc etc. Dig up something plastic or fiberglass for the front fender, cut it to shape? Smaller generic reflector style indicator lights sunk flush into the box cowl & the bubble fairing. Simple stuff, the key being to pull it off for cheap too.

Funny how it's the last few "simple" steps which seem to hold up even the best looking projects. Imho this is all to do with the sense of PERFECTIONISM you'll pick up from meticulously going through the engine & carbs etc. What are we gonna DO with the things, I mean - after we take those first few perfect photos- GAWD help you if anybody sez "you missed a spot", right? Just slap some bodywork on the damn thing & ride the balls off of it.

This is why it's so much better to attempt the "AS RIDDEN" race-replica, with the goal being for the bike to look as though it's taken a proper beating. You needn't cook up a faux verdigris concoction like the RAT-BIKE people do, or rub down fake PATINA wear through the top coats of paint like the fake weathering people will do to render that "Survivor" appearance to a completely refinished bike. Just leave crap the hell alone unless there's any real threat to the structural integrity, rust that's gonna eat further into the material or whatever. Rub off the white oxides from alloy parts but don't polish the livin' BEJEZUSS out of 'em, lest you're stuck too far past the original factory finish but can't quite reach the perfect mirror and what do you do THEN, I ask you? I'm not telling you, I'm asking you! Ha-ha.

Honestly, though. Far better to get the frame & engine & hubs & all of that CORE ELEMENT stuff finished just perfectly, and then the stuff that goes on the bike last well, you could always yank it back off again and THEN give it a rub-down or spit-shine or butt-wipe or whatever other surface treatment you see fit!

Let the damn thing sit with PRIMER on it for at least the one season. Ride it around and give some thought to just what sort of LIVERY you're after - Then plan out that paint job through your first winter, let the stickers wait until the following season. Just get the thing TOGETHER and ROLLING.

'Cause think about it - all of these pics we're looking at online, of the "FRESH COMPLETED" projects. They're either fresh OR completed, but I sincerely doubt they're capable of being both. Too many wrinkles to iron out. Tuning, adjustments, replacements, further changes perhaps reversing things back to stock configuration 'cause something ... that straight push master-cylinder without the integral bell-crank for instance ... might turn out to be one seriously unpolishable TURD. So the bike's got to evolve even further.

You know when the bike's "COMPLETE"? When it's ready for the NEXT time 'round, just prior to a tear-down & re-build. Which is to say your very first pic on this thread? Yeah - THAT'S the pic of the "Complete" bike in it's TOURING configuration. Ha-ha.

I really need to heed my own advice & just finish this damned HONDA - then the "KZ440LOL" project needs to get un-stalled, and then the 'featherweight' DOHC-4 needs to evolve from a near-complete collection of parts (just needs an engine) and then from there IF I should live so long I wanna try a V65 MAGNA based "CZ860K0 Sand-Cast" homage to the Cezeta CZ Type 860, or "DLF-1200" wire-spoke converted GL1200 Gold-Wing Endurance special - one or the other I don't care which. But whichever it is I don't want to be STALLED on a project like this ever again. If we're held up over some rare piece of Unobtainium? We must perforce render some reasonable facsimile thereof for the interim, just as a place holder if needs be. Whatever it takes to adapt the fantastic upgrade parts which we absolutely must have with the OTHER next adjacent fantastic upgrade Unobtainium bits we absolutely must have. At least, that's how it is with MY chosen front end package.

Which is to say if the CB750P7-ii RCMP spec front hub isn't available, I've got to see about a weld-up & machined modded DOHC-4 'K-bike front hub, to ADD that 2nd rotor mounting face to the obverse side of the single-disc hub - In the end it'd probably cost about the same $$$'s anyhow. The principle difference being you'll wait 'til the COWS come home, searching for that raw unadulterated UNOBTAINIUM ore.

And if it's really THAT good of an idea, if and when we PROVE this to the rest of the Honda buffs out there, perhaps then we'll see a reproduction part. ONLY then - 'cause people don't READ anymore, you need to SHOW 'em what it'd look like.....

There's a whole ton of other reproduction parts out there to be whipped up. Like my dual 296mm front end from the '81-'82 CBX, it's only available for the twin-pot calipers, when what we really NEED in the Classic Honda scene is a version for the SINGLE-PUCK calipers, you see. They did exist, if only on the RCB & RS1000 DOHC-4 prototype ENDURANCE racers. But that's not to say they needn't be reproduced in mass batches for EVERYBODY to use 'em! Witness those CB1100RB 296mm dished rotors I've mentioned. Metalgear Australia produced 'em in spite of the fact there were only ever 1050 '81 CB1100R's built in the first place.

See, ya'll GUZZI people understand this. Small production runs and TRULY limited editions, down in the DOZENS or HUNDREDS at best, by the numbers - and yet there have been plenty of reproduction parts made for THOSE models. Not as replacements for original factory bikes but ALSO for the race-replica street-bike projects, as upgrades for basic touring models whether it's an oversized high-capacity alloy tank for greater range OR a heavy-duty front brake for safety reasons. ALL of these reasons snowball greater impetus to the aftermarket reproduction parts.

It's only if and when the HONDA people can wrap their heads around it, though.

And when you're talking about less popular stuff, heck it won't even matter how much better the "new" ideas might be - the CR750 people only want the DICK MAN livery, they have no clue who Morio Sumiya even was, let alone see themselves riding around with psychedelic blue & green livery.....

But even so - at SOME point there'll be enough interest for a reproduction CB750P7-ii front hub, AND the 296mm spec hangers for the single-puck calipers! The Akront "NERVI" rims on rebuilt Comstar wheels, etc etc etc. Eventually, people would feel somehow inadequate riding around on anything LESS.

But somebody's gotta squeeze out the $$$'s on those first few welded/machined modified-OEM street-bike hubs FIRST, only when enough of THOSE damn things have been grist for the mill both literally and figuratively, only THEN will it be worth casting up a batch of new CB750P7-ii front hubs, you see.

The question being, whether we should allow ourselves to sully the bike with lame CR750 spec hubs & rotors while we WAIT for the good shit......

Well either which way - I guess what I'm saying is the important thing to do is not to cut any corners. Whether or not you buff & shine those corners is irrelevant. But of course without the appropriate UPGRADES then what's the point of taking the bike apart in the first place, OTHER than to make everything shiny once again? There's stuff that simply MUST be done and done right, and this is the crap which I'm hung up over.

That and the polishing. Maybe it's just the CB1100R version but imho these alloy tanks are just a BEAR to shine up. Might reconsider other colours for some of the alloy rims and any future drum hubs etc - not FLAT BLACK by any stretch of the imagination, and not fake "Metallic Aluminum" tint over actual Aluminum METAL. Doesn't leave much, I realize. Perhaps some of that fake Magnesium passivate type of stuff, aka the "Bronze" spray-bomb? Tough stuff..... You can really see how some folks wind up spraying everything RED, even worse when it's flat black with red & gloss-black accents.... Though I'M definitely not going there, you can still see what drove 'em there in the first place! Thing is, it's just about as gawdawful when every last damn piece of the bike is polished alloy. Might as well throw a whole lotta CHROME at the damn bike. There's a balance to be struck between the bead-blasted alloy, the polished bits, the faded polish & patina along with the PAINT. People who originally did this for the OEMs actually went to DESIGN SCHOOL just to figure out the basics. Just sayin' - it ain't easy. Truth be told, the easier part would be to just keep polishing!

TLDR. Can anyone sum that up in 5 lines or less?