>"Feedback on how much others have raised the forks would be appreciated though." About 5/8 inch on mine. Makes handling a little quicker. IMHO: Fine.
Raising forks, on any motorcycle, makes for quicker "turn in"...and more responsive/twitchier. It changes the geometry is such way, that the bike wants to turn more. Conversely, what it is supposed to do is make it less stable at high speed/ highways. With street bikes, there is a fine balance in doing this, because if you make it un stable enough, it will want to tank slap..never fun. Because of the bike's geometry, with the WRR/X, not sure how much it matters. My personal requirements is it turns how I want offroad, and is stable enough on road that I can do high speed, and take hands off bars, and it stays going straight.
Thanks Doug. I wasn't trying to change the handling characteristics, but simply to return it to "neutral" handling after lowering the rear. The ratio of lowering front and rear is apparently not 1:1, and there doesn't seem to be any definitive way to know the magic number. I guess if it seems OK, it probably is. 1/2" doesn't seem out of line with what other folks report doing.
Has anyone used the Wolfman Rolie Bag (size small) as a tail-bag on a GYTR rear rack? I'd love to see photos, get feedback.
Mine holds the tire kit. Tube, wrenches, baby powder, compressor. The stretch straps in the photo don't do anything to hold the bag down. I just have them there because it's a good place to store them.
I've got mine at 15 mm. Plus a Yamalink and some additional lowering of the shock in rear, although not all the way. Works fine for me; I was trying for pretty much the same handling as the stock settings. I seem to recall the instructions for the Yamalink saying that 18 mm was the max. This TT post implies it's also the norm. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/573652-yamalink-video/page__p__5524376#entry5524376
I did the factory lowering to about the max and have my forks raised 19mm. I have noticed no difference in handling, good or bad. I just know I can reach the ground a little better with these changes coupled with a Seat Concepts low seat .
I read that too, 18 mm for the YamaLink. I only used the factory shock mount method, no link. I read that the shock mount lowering is good for up to 1", so I figure mine is somewhere around 7/8" in the back, so I did ~2/3 that drop for the front.
Thanks for the photo. That's a PMB rack under there? Looks like you have lots of room to spare in the Rolie; is that the small size? I would love to have the medium, but the GYTR rack is so small. I think I'll have to ride to the store and see how they fit (assuming both are in stock).
Heres what ended my fun day of riding today. I did make it about 100 miles home without the road side repair tree branch plug falling out. There doesnt seem to be any engine damage. Can someone PM me a link to a online repair manual? Looks like I got some work to do.
So did the stock site glass just pop out, or did you hit it on something and break it? I've heard/seen this before on the BMW 1100's, but first time I've heard of this on the WR250R?
I dont think I hit anything but I guess I could have. My rear brake was not working like it should and when I got off the bike to clean the grass off the brake pedal I saw the window was misssing.
I just got a new Garmin Montana 650 with the AMPS Rugged Mount/cradle with power. I want to wire the cradle to the bike so it gets power when the bike is running but no power when it is off (i.e. not directly to the battery). Any one done something like this, maybe for heated grips or something. Photos of the wire you spliced into would be great.
The oil level in the photo doesn't look that low, so hopefully no engine damage. Did you add oil after putting in the temporary plug? I trust that a skid-plate will be added after the sight-glass repair?
Yea the guys I was riding with went and got oil for me. The plug was leaking on the way home so I stoped a few times and added more oil.
I got my suspension rebuilt by W.E.R ( which by the way was super quick and fairly priced ), anyhow when I was reassembling the rear shock I noticed the top mount point on the rear shock seemed liked it was seized (thinking it was a bearing at first). After trying to push the coupler out (to check the bearing and possibly re-grease) I got to thinking that maybe it is a rigid bushing ? Anybody know?? Here's a pic - the top mount location on the shock is the area in question: jordan
So I finally sold my 2009 Husky TE-610 and now shopping for a nice WR250R. Although I'm half considering buying an X model just to get the black frame and then put dirt wheels on it. So I found one for sale that is pretty nicely setup, but the guy has it listed as a 2007 model and I even wrote him to ask if that was correct and he said it was? I wondered if he was just going by the year on the VIN sticker on the bike as they frequently will say the year earlier than the title since normally a 2008 model was built in 2007. I thought about asking for a copy of the title to verify for sure. I wasn't sure if maybe there was a handful of later 2007 models when this bike first came out? Its listed under Nashville CL if you want to take a look at the ad and bike. It looks like a WR250R and not the WR250F.
No WRR before 2008. That is a WRR though, so he must have the year wrong. Seems expensive, though he has some nice accessories on it.