GS Won't start after owner service - Help

Today (32k miles) I changed the Alt belt, oil & filter, checked valves (only one needed adjustment), and plugs. Belt, filters & plugs straight from dealer. Now it won't start. Turns over strong but no fire. Checked for spark against cylinder head - no joy!. Never went under the tank so I'm not inclined to go there now unless there's a fuse or something I should check.

Where to check next? I'm supposed to leave on a long trip on Wednesday so i'm in a mild panic. Any help is appreciated

Is Your kickstand down? In gear ?

Tork

In neutral. K/s was up and bike was on centerstand. Tried with clutch in.

Did you take the tank off or did you lift it abit?

If so, look right side your throttle wire (sp) is in place and not un-hooked. Most common problem after the tank was removed or lifted.

Didn't move the tank at all. Would the throttle thing stop the spark? I would think that is electrical.

Man!
Did you compare the plugs? Are the ones you put in the same as the ones you took out? try the old plugs. Are the plug wires in all the way?
You wrote "filters" does that include the air filter? Check the temp sensor on the air box? Any chance you knocked the sidestand switch when you pulled the bash late?
How about the kill switch? Maybe you bumped it.
Try the sully stuff and then go through everything you did.

how about the throttle bodies did you knock a linkage loose?

Same plugs. Tried the old ones. No spark showing after a firm click after putting to plug wires back on. Didn't do the air filter. I'll check the side stand switch but everything underneath came off easily as it usually has. Kill switch is centered. When moved to the side, it won't even crank. Actually, it's behaving like it does when it's in gear and I've left the kick stand down. Back to garage.

Had similar problem after tune up by reliable shop. Right side cover pushed in on fuel line disconnect. Check it out!

OK. I did take off the small black piece to get to the TCD mark window. But would that explain no spark? Back to the garage. Good news is the Suz VX800 started right up after a 2 month layover so there is a bike for the New England trip.

Took off the right side cover. No sign of any crimping on anything.

Just to confuse things a bit. When I took out the spark plugs to see they would spark against the cylinder head, there was no sign of flooding even though I had been trying to start the GS for more than 20 minutes. Yet I can hear the fuel pump cranking and I can see no issue with the fuel lines.

You changed the alternator belt. My bet is you damaged the wires to the HES (Hall Sensor) when you were tightening the belt. Did you use a screwdriver to pry the alternator up?

If so, you broke a wire and now you wont get a spark, or gas to the injectors for that matter.

Not too hard to fix, but it will require you to remove the tank to get the harness out for repair.

Salder and heat shrink it.

Jim

<BR>Does the neutral light come on in neutral?

OR - JVB's got a good idea.

Did you disconnect the Hall Sensor connector to move some wiring to gain access to the alternator fasteners?

Maybe you did not plug it back together tightly?

Try a test before taking the tank off Tom.

Remove the alternator belt cover.

Put the bike on the centerstand in neutral. Sidestand up.

Turn the ignition key on.

Use a wrench and slowly rotate the crankshaft through one rotation. (turn the crank clockwise - looking at it from the front of the engine)

If the TOP hall effect sensor is working, the fuel pump will cycle as the crank passes through TDC.

- Jim<BR><BR>

You have it right. I did use a large screw driver to lever up the alternator. Thought I was being careful not to hit the wires underneath but maybe I did. This makes the most sense. Got plenty of heat shrink and it will give me an excuse to try out my new ColdHeat soldering tool.

Any clue as to what to look for? Any description will be appreciated.

Because the wires are in a sleave you may not immediately be able to see where you did the damage. Take a look with a flashlight and maybe you will get lucky and see where you may have pinched off the wire.

If it is broken, or you can't tell, you will have to pull the tank to get to the connector for the Hall wires. You might be able to fix it without pulling the belt and lower pully to remove the Hall sensor.

Jim

To Poolside -

I didn't disconnect anything to replace the belt. FWIW the old one looks almost as good as the new one but a buddy warned me about his VERY expensive repair after his broke. All I did was remove the 4 cover screws, loosened the three alternator bolts, removed the old belt, put on the new one, tighted thing up lightly, turned the engine over using the stater, used the BIG screwdriver to get the rest of the play out of the belt and then buttoned it all up.

I'm betting that JVB is right since I KNOW that screwdriver slipped a time or 2. Frankly, taking the tank off is almost less trouble than removing the alt cover so back to the garage.

BTW... throw that thing in the trash... MCN exposed the scam on those things. Sorry...

Don't be sorry.

So far it's working 3-4 simple switch solder jobs so no pain plus I've spent a lot more for things that worked worse. But that's true for most of us )

Not trying to hijack the thread here, but I'm about to do my own (first) service job so I'm following this discussion closely......

The question I have is: Have any of you wrenches every replaced an alternator belt without loosening anything? I was talking to Dick Fish at the BMWMOA rally last year and he was saying that replacing the belt as a roadside fix, he just starts it onto the pulley and then cranks it around using a 16mm wrench. Done. Anybody else tried this? I'm not sure how this would work trying to take a belt off, though.

Sorry, TomB. I don't have any ideas to help you out.

Here I go hijacking again.... what's the scam?